CzarMohab

What a difference a tooth makes... Had driver's side timing belt off by one tooth... Managed to get into and out of the timing belts in record (for me anyway) time, 1.5 hrs, and its like driving a totally different car now. Went from 0 power and 0 acceleration to spinning the tires (ok ok... it rained a little and the ground was wet...) and beating a Mustang off the line (ok - so maybe he wasn't paying attention when the light changed... still impressive for 77 horses of fury!). Ended up changing air, oil and fuel filters, and the spark plugs after it was back to normal. Now its even more peppy than it was. I still need to fix the exhaust leak at the muffler (Friday she gets a new one) and eventually the suspension, and a laundry list of minor tweaks and fixes, but its alive, and that, I think, is what matters most.

its alive!!! thanks all for the help. couldn't have done it without you. She's still got some dust to shake off before I can say she's back to where she was (accelerates about as fast as a dead elk rolling down hill... very slow at first then... zippy), but at least its running and driving. If it doesn't get any better I know where to find you all for help Special thanks for the Art of Subaru Maintenance #08. Without that I probably wouldn't be running right now, and would have bugged you all with more questions easily answered.

Wasn't an option this time. Honestly - I would have loved to just yanked the engine and done all the work at a comfortable level and spacing... Everything is back in place and all tightened up. Have an extra 10mm bolt now, not sure why. Not really concerned, I think its just to the TB cover. Waiting on the locksmith to actually make a working key based on the lock. Spent two hours on it and nothing came out. At least I know that someone won't be able to use this as a method of stealing the car. I promised some pictures so here they are (possibly not dial-up friendly): I have also come to the conclusion that if I ever own a non-metric vehicle, I'll need to re-buy 90% of the tools I have in the standard equivalent.

Timing belts are easy when they are not in 300,000,000 pieces and wrapped around some of the parts that go roundy roundy... ...It did. Driver's side. Blech... ...Nope, just one. Driver's side. More accurately, the shiny part of the tensioner seems to indicate that it failed (stopped going roundy roundy) first, taking the belt with it... ...Almost. Cleaned out the belt fragments and it works again... ...It tried and failed... Think I spent more time cleaning the teeth of all the gears (both sides) than I did ripping the front end of the engine all apart to get to the timing belts. I was really hoping that it was something else. I really hate squeezing these giant paws into the tiny openings to turn tiny bolts... Mostly just bad memories and scars from being in a similar spot with a water pump on an 86 a couple years back. Pictures when I can, there's some awesomeness in them.

Maybe its just me and personal tastes, but I don't think there are enough Baja pictures in this tread (the ones I saw are AWESOME!) so I will add one more! My Baja, B.J.: Nothin' says lovin' like coverin' your Subaru in snow Oddly enough, the only picture I could find

Last nights photos of interest: Found a tiny drop of ???? in the bottom of the intake manifold/throttle body/thingie on top - keep in mind I still haven't cranked the engine in ... well I forget exactly how long but I would think that a drop of gas would have evaporated by now. inside the disty cap. Disty rotor. Note that the droplet looking thing is just a shadow. Rotor was firm in place. Sparky wires looked good (e.g. no cracks, breaks, etc.). Wasn't able to pull the plugs due to the sun going down. Can't get back into it tonight because of the rain. Can't push it into the garage because of the key issue. On that - the best way to really describe it is it feels like i just have the wrong key - goes in but won't turn (except the retarded glove box lock). I will be oiling the locks in the (predicted) sunshine tomorrow; but if that doesn't do it then I can only assume that somehow the key has worn down just enough to not work. Maybe being on a key ring that sees pocket and other keys daily helped that. Also tomorrow the timing belts will be looked at. Not really looking forward to that. And, most importantly, Thank You All for the help so far.

Brief update: Very probably not the immaculate, looks like new distributor cap or distributor rotor. Pix of it tomorrow, feeling not really up to it right now. I firmly believe that whoever designed the steering wheel cover area should be smacked in the head with a rather large trout. Sun went down so I'm done for the night. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated... Things like is there an easy way to check the timing belts without dismantling everything?

I don't mind getting dirty, greasy, bloody, or anything else that comes with working on an EA-82; however, I have rather large hands and forearms... Anything between the radiator and the engine proper is indeed my least favorite place to work on these. So please don't take this the wrong way, but I hope you are wrong and the timing belts are not the issue. The way my luck runs: one of them catastrophically failed into 300,000,000 micro-pieces, taking both tensioners, one of the idler pulleys and the other belt with it when it went. _OR_ its a loose wire not previously discussed, or even thought about... Also - my WD-40 is in my tackle box in the bed of my Baja in a repair shop not easily arrived at by bus, bike or foot (yeah, they are cheap and easily replaced) and if I had a car that ran right now, I could go get it. How's that for irony?

The prices I usually see range from $200 to $2000, with a fairly strong average of $900 to $1200. This does not exclude the occasional outlying prices from as low as free (usually accompanied by words like "get it out of my yard" "no engine" and the like) to one locally here, $6599 - one owner, 50k miles. So no, your price range isn't too abstract or too far out there. Thing is, the lower the price the more likely you will find words like "blown head gasket", "ugly as sin", "rust" and/or "does not drive" in the description. May not be an issue if you are building an off road champ. 2-3 $200 wagons might have all you need, and spares for a while. Also, for Seattle area I would recommend the Little Nickle, as well as looking through the Portland area craigslist. If you are willing to go the extra mile there usually is one (of some condition, around the year (88) you are looking at) in Yakima and Tri Cities, and a couple usually in the Spokane/C.D.A. craigslists.

It would have to be a sooner rather than later deal as I have not yet pulled the trigger on the repairs and the shop is getting kind of froggy with a car not making them any cash taking up one of their bays; and its not in the best neighborhood to be left out overnight and unattended in (but they do good work, if not danged expensive for some things). I'll PM you after work or you can PM me on this and work out the details - seems like we might have a deal, though.

OK... so I seized the engine on my 03 Baja. I won't get into details, but I will get right to the questions, because sometimes I just don't trust the mechanics. I know the engine is EJ25 2.5L Non-turbo. I know that for the most part any EJ25 2.5L Non-turbo should fit in the hole. I also know that finding a local dead Subaru exact or near-exact match is extremely difficult locally, and I know that it is dang expensive for a new or rebuilt engine. So my first question is, what else will fit in the hole? Right now I only know what the mechanic knows, that the engine is seized... somewhere along the line it went from "OK" oil to "NO" oil in less than a week (yes, I check that weekly, so things like this don't happen). As soon as the car was safe to inspect after the incident, the dipstick was dry and the underside of the engine was awash with oil, however there was no streaking on the under carriage or big spots on the highway. Oil filter was oily but tight, as was the drain plug. No obvious indication of where the oil came from (i.e. the leak or failure point). And the topper: oil light never came on. Highway was one I'd been on countless times, was doing 60mph on a slight uphill grade. happened about 2k miles and 2 months after the last oil change. My questions here are: What can I do to help prevent this from happening again? Where are some places I can point the mechanic to to help find the source/cause? and finally, In this kind of situation, what would typically be the absolute minimum pieces and parts to replace? I am on a budget, and four of the quotes from two different places I have for replacing the engine (albeit with brand new or crate engines) exceed the cash value of the Baja. I would love to get this done for $4000 or, preferably, way less.

OK... I'm just going to start with a little back story first... This car was a daily driver from when I bought it at 205k miles until I upgraded to an '03 Baja a couple of years ago when it became a spare car. For a year or so it was driven only occasionally, maybe twice a month for local errands and the like (better fuel economy than the Baja for things like that). Eventually, it came time to sell it, and three days after it sold, deep in traffic and half way through a major intersection, the engine died, and would not start from that point onward. It was towed back to my house where it has sat for around a year or so. Long, sad story short, I just have not had the time, or money, or at various times both, to keep on it and make it work. Recent events (seized the engine on the Baja) have forced me into requiring getting this old beast back into operations, even if for just a short time. I was able to poke at it from time to time for about two months after it was parked, but due to time wasn't able to do anything with it beyond basic observations. This is what I found: -Engine would turn over, just wouldn't catch or start -Fuel filter had pressure to it (which I know now that I was supposed to depressurize that line first - live and learn) -After attempting a restart (to re-pressurize the fuel line) and then properly depressurizing the line, there was no pressure on either side of the fuel filter Irrelevant to the cause and the cure, I plan on replacing all 4 spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I am also contemplating on replacing the fuel filter just to eliminate that as a possible cause. I won't be able to do any of these things until Friday at the earliest. I found this thread and plan on looking into the CTS. There is, however, one major hitch to all of this. About 4 months ago I got it into my mind to try to get it up and running again, but I couldn't get into the car! The key no longer worked in either door lock. Tried and failed with the trunk lock, but the key never really worked well there. After breaking into my own car I realized that the battery had died, and the key no longer worked in the ignition, either. It did, and still does, work just fine in the lock on the glove box - so unless those locks typically suck I can be reasonably sure that I have the right key; that lock does not turn with the other Subaru key I have from the late Vicki (86 GL-10 Wagon). It was around this time that I figured that the car wasn't worth the short time that I had and I would just pick a weekend and a paycheck and go all out... Now that I am more or less forced into using this car, I do have the battery on a charger (it is holding the charge, just taking forever to get to full) and will be re-installing the battery to see if that might clear up the key issues, though I highly doubt that it will change much. The battery does need to be charged to eventually get it to start, so at least there's that going in my favor. My questions are: -Is there anything that would prevent the key from turning the ignition or door locks, under any circumstance? I am pretty sure that if the key is itself the issue I can get it replaced, I just want to make sure that a new key won't have the same issue; and if I don't have to pay a lock smith, so much the better. -Is there a list of things to look into (once the key issue is resolved) not already mentioned (heck - even if they are mentioned I wouldn't mind hearing them again) that may be preventing the engine from starting? Additional Details: -As the title suggests, its an 88 GL Sedan -EA-82 engine, the EA-82 is in a box in the "stamp" on the engine - i know that that box is significant, I just don't remember why exactly - it is FI, non-turbo and ran fine before this. -All fluids are where they are supposed to be considering that the engine is cold. Oil spots on the ground seem to suggest otherwise -Engine ran fine up until it quit - there were no signs indicating a future failure (e.g. surging, lack of power, stuttering, etc.) -Car was originally sold in Southern California, I know somewhere I read that some engines/cars from the "everything causes cancer" state had special mods, I don't know if this one does or not. -235k miles with ~36k on a new (not rebuilt) 3AT FWD tranny. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. If you need any further information, let me know. I won't be able to do anything major until I can either move the car into a garage (key issue prevents unlocking the steering wheel) or Friday when I can have the entire day to poke at it... As it is I only have about an hour before the sun goes down.

Symptoms: Driver's headlight low beam does not light. Replaced bulb with new and nothing. Swapped fuses (and relays) with passenger side, and passenger side still lights, but still not the driver's side. High beams on both sides light. Socket for the bulb is good. Pulling both relays gives me approx. 60/40 split in illumination to both, with 60% going to the passenger side. This one's a real head scratcher for me. I've narrowed it down to an electrical issue (open circuit or short, not sure which at this point). But where in the ~1 1/2 to 2 feet (or so) of wire is this "gremlin"? Only thing at this oint I haven't done is run a volt meter over it, but this is a lack of owning one issue more than anything else. A lenghty search through the forum gave me plenty to go from, but I'm thinking that this might be something unique - or just something that is hiding in plain sight. Czar Mohab

I know she's newer and most likely not going to see issues for a while, but is there anything to look out for on a 2008 WRX? We got one heck of a sweet deal on this little gem, and aside from the routine maintenance and items covered by the killer warranty, should we worry about something unseen but common to the '08 WRX's? ~CZMB~

She's SPFI. Or at the very least FI. Haven't really cared to look deeper into that, it hasn't ever really come up. ~CZMB~ P.S. Thanks for the prompt reply.

88 GL (Junior, for those that remember) FWD Sedan, 3AT, 212k+ miles... Turn the key to "ON" without starting the engine and it sounds as if something is trying to run underneath the car. Louder on the driver's side, but I can't pinpoint the location. My guess is fuel pump, but since it is a new noise, I'm not really sure. I really need this car to last 6-8 months (when I can, without pause, replace the beast), and I really hope it is either nothing too major or a quick and simple fix. I'd listen for the sound while the car is running, but the exhaust leak doesn't let me hear much. I'm just probing for ideas as to what it could be or how to narrow it down. There's the click of a relay firing, then the electric whirring of something, then the click from the relay again shutting down after about 2-3 seconds. Won't be able to T/S tonight, wife borrowed the car while her Legacy's in the shop (and until she can drive the WRX). ~CZMB~ P.S. It seems that with the addition of the WRX to our family, we are, indeed, a Subaru only household.

Hehehe Haven't been around much lately. Stupid me trying to have a life, I guess. But seriously, Junior's the reason for me not being around as much. There's been no major issues with the car. None. Heater's hot, AC's cold. Found the oil leak (haven't patched it up yet, it isn't serious). Needs new struts, but I'm not in too big of a hurry to dump ~$250+ into the car. The flat tire the other day got me upset, but that wonder-donut worked just fine for the afternoon, and got me some darn good steaks at Les Schwab (eh, the other three were close enough to gone). There was a squeak or four from the front end back when I first started with her. Tightened both castle nuts and bingo! Those squeaks are gone. Needs new brake pads soon, which is no big deal. Stereo's still quirky, only playing from 1/2 the speakers intermittently, but its an internal issue, and unless I find another stock stereo to swap it with, I can live. Vicki didn't have one, so even with 1/2 the speakers running, its still an improvement. Speedo sticking at 70+ isn't as much of an issue, fastest legally I can go around here is 70 anyway... Won't fix the exhaust leak for a while, I like the way it makes the car sound. I'd learned a lot from all of you and working on Vicki. In the near future I plan to acquire another GL-10 wagon, for which I will once again turn to you all for guidance, seeing that most of those in my price range that I have found have "issues". Until then, I hope to poke in more often, perhaps offering my not-so-sagely wisdom to others. Basically, Thanks guys and gals, 'cause without you all, Junior'd be no more than a blue turd of a car. Vicki'd still be scrap metal, I think, but learning on her with your guidance helped me with Junior. ~CZMB~

Darndest thing. Castle nut was loose. Very loose. Just loose enough to fit the slit ring washer thingie in there. If it was there. Makes me wonder what happened to it. Tightened the nut and *POOF* no more bad issues. So far. As to the stereo: Its almost 20 years old. The speakers are fine, just the pass side ones both go out. Nearest I can tell (after taking the stereo out) is that it is internal on the stereo, nothing I can do except replace it. Heck, Its more than what Vicki had just having it in there and turned off, so I'm happy enough with it. Looking into the PCV thing. I don't often take long sharp right turns, so I'm good for now. Oil level, while it hasn't been more than just below the "L" hole on the dipstick is steady at least. As soon as I have a spare $3 or so I'll add more oil. I still don't like the 3at; but having Junior dust that ricer from a dead stop and watching him get pulled over while trying to catch up made me feel a tad better about it. EA82 POWER! ~CZMB~ P.S. Anyone have an "EA82 POWER!" bumper sticker? I might fiddle with that idea if one isn't already out there.

I misused a word when describing the steering issue. Its not tight to turn, the steering wheel and front wheels turn easily... Its that there is no free play in the steering system. None. Zero. Like when you can grab the steering wheel and turn it one way or the other and nothing happens for the first little bit. Junior doesn't have that. Thanks for all the words of wisdom thus far. I'll look into solutions as time permits and fill you all in as I get to them. ~CZMB~

First, how I'm going about it: SYMPTOM:What's wrong. PROBABLE CAUSE:What I think is wrong, may include several items. SOLUTION:What I think will fix it. If left blank, then i haven't a clue; either way, input is desired for this field. Why this format: I'm freakin' long winded and I want to ask alot with fewer words. I don't want to scribble out an epic to tell you "what's that thunking sound?" So, here we go: (Keep in mind its all about Junior, 88 GL Sedan) SYMPTOM: Passenger side speakers sometimes turn off. PROBABLE CAUSE: Bad wires, old stereo. SOLUTION: Short of rewiring and replacing the stereo, none. SYMPTOM: Occasional squeaking (squeak squeak squeak squeak)from driver's front brakes, esp. after long right turns. PROABLE CAUSE: Dusty brake pads & warped/bowed disc. SOLUTION: Resurface disc. SYMPTOM: Grinding from driver's front brakes durring hard stops (grr grr grr). PROBABLE CAUSE: Warped/bowed disc, worn pads. SOLUTION: New pads, so, resurface disc...? This one's the stickler: SYMPTOM: Thunking noise (no pattern to it, thunk thunk pause thunk, etc.)when decelerating without brakes, can happen any speed, but usually 25-45MPH, never when in neutral, and very rarely when using brakes. PROBABLE CAUSE: Backlash in tranny gears or engine to tranny connection, bad half axle. SOLUTION: ?? Axles seem ok, passed "tight turning" tests and hands on jerk test. SYMPTOM: Nice long cloud of bluish smoke from exhaust after long, sharper right turns at speed. Acompanied by *poot poot* sounds. Note:this has only happened twice. PROBABLE CAUSE: Oil in Driver's side cylinders due to turning (i.e. oil going <- that way). SOLUTION: ?? SYMPTOM: Added 3 quarts of oil, 1 quart of stop leak/stop smoke/high milage goo; level on dipstick reads as almost none (better than the dry stick I pulled out before adding this, I suppose) ... 1hr, 1 day, and 1 week later. Pretty sure 4 quarts was near full. No oil on ground or underneath, no positive evidence of burning oil, except as above. Oil press is 45psig at speed, near 0 at idle; no warning lights. PROBABLE CAUSE: Dipstick sucks? Big hole someplace? Blown HGs? SOLUTION: aside from possible HGs (no other evidence to support at this time), I haven't a clue. SYMPTOM: Extremely tight steering. Zero play in the steering wheel. Vicki had some, every other car I've ever been in had some, Junior has none. Not 100% sure this is even a problem. Level in the PS fluid res is full. Makes driving in a cross wind a challenge. Makes things like sneezing fun, though. PROBABLE CAUSE: ?? SOLUTION: ?? That should be it for now. Thanks in advance. ~CZMB~

Might sound dumb, but did you try putting the old horn back in? CZMB

hrmn... So basically, just live with it... No worries, then. Not like having extra miles will hurt resale value that much... As for "calibration" measurement, I just use the mile markers on the side of the road. Especially where I've been with Vicki already to check accuracy (seeing that she was more or less dead on); I know that just because it says "55" then "56", "57", etc. on the mile posts doesn't mean that it was a full mile in between. However, most that I have found were accurate (other vehicles used to test the theory). I just don't like having to calculate MPG with an extra variable... the equation "M/G=MPG" turns into "(M*1.05)/G=MPG"... this of course brings MPG down about 2-4 depending on the other 2 variables; but I've only filled it up twice.

Glad that you're ok, sad to see a 'ru like that though... Excellent shot, though, with that smiley in the background. Its up there with the smashed back window with a "WTF?" sticker that I saw a while back; kind of like "right place" photo enhancers. (sorry, I'm doing that "look on the bright side" thing again) Czar "Always look on the bright side of life" Mohab, who won't sing the rest. There should be much rejoicing.

Thanks for the support I've already taken the steering wheel cover, CB radio, and my guardian angel... and if I get the chance, the horn I added because it was all I had and Vicki had a bum one, provided it survived. Definately the Subaru hubcaps she had, those were kinda sweet. As to the guardian angel: I think he's kinda lazy, because I've actually been in accidents in every car I've owned (except Junior), and he's been in every car I've owned. I've never been seriously hurt, though, so all is well enough. He's represented by an Itchy plush that I got (permanantly borrowed) from Denny's long ago when I worked there and we were promoting All Dogs Go to Heaven 2 (98 or 99). As to being able to talk about it... Its my style to try to find the lighter side of things, rather than focus on doom and gloom. I was more miffed because the chocolates that I got for my wife's birthday got all melty and her card got wrinkled. I don't really know how to explain it all though, I'm not over it by any means, I guess just accepting of the situation and that I can't change it.

/agree /agree Very much so. It takes an awful lot to offend me. What you said here crossed that line, The Loyale. In my eyes, you have the same red marks that appear on all of BGD's posts, and I will heed that warning for you from now on.