s'ko
-
Posts
1619 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by s'ko
-
-
here's a before and after of the house
-
I think you're still in my phone dierctory ! Welcome back. Shook off the 80's stuff too?
No I still have my BRAT and the RX. They are sittind in the backyard waiting for me to get done remodeling the house
-
Winner winner chicken dinner.
Those r shots from where I use to live.
-
hey man.
Same thing happened to me. Gotta watch that routing
-
Hey there. Been a long time.
I have been remodeling my house for the last year and a half. no time to wrench or anything
Been driving a bone stock 2001 Legacy wagon. Even have the old steelies on it.
Anyways i was on google maps and I found these two addresses
2405 Perkins Lane, Redondo Beach CA
and
2611 Curtis Ave, Redondo Beach CA
Go to the addresses and looky at the street view. Tell me what u see.
Hope to be on here more in the future.
BW
-
Problem resolved.
Fuel pump went out.
Airtex fuel pump that I bought from Oreilly was defective.
$300 later, mechanic had it working.
BW
-
It is possible to place w/it still in the car.
like 94loyale said remove the radiator first.
You will need to remove the crank pulley and get to the covers. You might as well get a timing belt kit while you are at it. Don't be too freaked out about getting the timing right on the first shot. The EG33 is non-interferential.
Good luck. If you need documentation or how to set the timing shot me a PM
-
no CEL.
4 cylinder automatic.
Car ran great before this happened. I had the fuel injectors cleaned out about 2 months ago. What keeps the fuel rail from getting gas?
Fuel pressure regulator?
Probably call AAA and get it towed to a shop for them to work on. I really really need the car working on Tuesday.
BW
-
I did a bone head move the other day. I was driving and the gas was really low. I forgot to get more gas before it ran out and I ran it dry.
I put more fuel in and tried to start it but I can't seem to get it to start.
AAA came and the car turned over with starter fluid but did not stay on. Pulled the fuel input lines and there fuel pressure is very low.
AAA towed me home. I called Andrew (hondasucks) and he suggested that I cycle the ignition a few times to put fuel into the engine. Still no start. I got a new fuel pump, strainer and filter and replaced the parts. I took an air hose and blew the lines clear. It is still not getting fuel.
I connect the green test plugs and the fuel pump cycles on and off. I pulled the gas input line to the filter and saw the gas flow. reconnected the input line and then disconnect the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Gas is flowing there. disconnected the output line from the fuel rail and gas is not coming out. The pressure from the fuel pump seems to be kinda low. What am I missing?
Thanks
BW.
-
I have been out of it for a bit now.
But I need to get me OBS up and running or the stupid code enforcers will tow it away ON MY PROPERTY IN MY BACKYARD!!!!
So.. my intake manifold and other parts are buried and I will not be able to get to it right away.
I have a line up on a phase 2 2.5 SOHC motor. Will that be a direct bolt in?
Thanks for the help .
BW
-
so are you trying to learn about cali smog?
the EJ22 swap needs 2 comply with year that the engine comes from. you need 2 have a CARB inspector certify it
for your EA, needs to comply w/the setup that it came stock with
send me a pm if u have any questions
-
Hello.
Been a while since I have gone onto here. Glad to see that things are pretty much the same.
I did end up getting that house and it's been a crazy time trying to remodel. it's basically a 1360 sqft complete gut and remodel. There are only 2 rooms that we did not touch significantly. Every room needed to be skim coated and painted, next step to finish the drywalling and put down the hardwood floors. After that it all finishing work.
BTW I HATE DRYWALL DUST......
Will be back on when I finally get internet at home.
If you need to get in touch w/me send me a PM and I will try to check about once a week.
KEEP THOSE SUBIES ALIVE.
BW
-
all fusible links are good
no blown fuses
car turns over but there does seem to be any spark
someone on another board suggested checking grounds
will do that this evening
bw
-
92 svx
wife was driving & car died ion her
now there is no cel when keyed on
Here is the diagnosis
Timing belt is fine.
Fusible link 2 is not blown.
No interior or exterior fuses are blown.
Negative lead to the chassis is a melted badly.Â*** Plastic battery tray is melted by the wire and the battery is leaking.Â*** I removed the negative wire and trimmed it until I found clean wire and then put it to a bolt on the frame rail near the tranny fluid filter.Â*** I also replaced the battery.
I still don’t think I am getting power to the ECU b/c the check engine light does not turn on when keyed to on and the fuel system does not power up.Â*** Where does the engine ground come from?Â*** Could there be a bad ground there that is not closing the circuit.Â*** Did I fry my ECU?Â*** Where is the ECU located?
Anyone else have this happen and how did you fix it.
Thanks
bw
-
my clutch cable keeps breaking
1982 brat 4 spd d/r tranny w/EJ18
a few years ago I had a oem clutch cable and it broke where the aluminum collar connects to the cable bracket. the flat disk part of the collar broke off the slim pare so thee was nothing to pull the cable against.
did a road side repair with hose sclamps and some quiksteel and it worked fine.
the other week the metal cable stopper at the end of the cable stripped out. replaced it with another oem clutch cable and yesterday the collar sheared off again
what is going on? seems like there is too much pressure against the pressure plate
is my clutch going out ?
anyone else run unrolled this kind of problem
I have a diy adapter plate could a miss alignment cause heavy resistance
bw
-
one adapter was homemade
the other one was from rguyver
-
It depends on how much. It should be hardly noticeable except in direct bright light or sunlight. If it looks like metallic paint then you got a problem.
it's barely noticable. Definately not like silver paint.
Thanks for the input.
BW
-
I would be in as well.
-
Don't flush it with anything. Remove the rod caps and visually check the bearings for damage. If you want to go the extra mile tear down the entire block and check the mains for damage, but if the rods check out OK it's probably not necessary. Silver in the oil is not a good sign, but it may not be indicative of an imminent failure. It's probably from the bearing that was working on grenading itself. Again, DO NOT FLUSH the engine. Thinning out the oil with solvents will do more harm than good. Put fresh oil in it, and a fresh good quality filter. Run the engine for about 15 - 30 minutes at varying RPMs, with no prolonged idling, then change the oil and filter again.
The cam may have seized for any number of reasons, but probably oil starvation due to some form of blockage in the oil gallery. There are a lot of threads here on the boards dealing with seized camshafts.
So silver in the oil from a rebuilt engine is bad? I thought that it was normal due to the rings and stuff breaking in.
check on putting fresh oil and filter.
Will be setting the valves today and doing the install on Friday.
BW
-
I recently rebuilt the shortblock on my 2k OBS.
The original shortblock had a damaged bearing.
I took the original heads and threw them on as is and it drove fine for about 200 miles. Then the camshaft seized and threw the timing. Is it possible that the camshaft was damaged when the original bearing went south?
I have found a set of freshly rebuilt heads and I am about to put them onto the shortblock.
What can I do to avoid this from happening again?
When I drained the oil, there was some miniscule metal in the oil, but not large pieces. This is probably due to the break in and seating of the rings. I will be pulling the oil pan before I install the heads to inspect for metal flakes. Should I rebuild the entire engine again. :eek
Or flush it w/some solvent and hope of the best?
BW
-
well, it's definitely a seized cam shaft.
The first bearing surface is messed up.
So anyone have a phase 2 99-01 head they went to sell?
-
Thanks for all of the responses.
I figured that it was unlikely that the cam got bent.
I think that the cam bearing seized or got scored and the t-belt was thrown.
This was a partial engine rebuild. I used a rebuilt EJ25 shortblock w/the old ej22 heads and cometic headgaskets that were cut for this swap. there might have been a problem with the head gaskets and the oil ports to the cam bearing.
I tried looking on e-bay and stuff for cam bearings and I can't seem to find any.
Where else can I look besides that stealership?
BW
-
I just pulled the heads off of my 2k EJ22 after the t-belt slipped. The pass side cams turn smoothly w/o the lifters. The driver's side one is really hard to turn by hand.
Could the cam have bent when the piston hit the valves?
I am having a hard time getting the star cam bolts off. The cheapo star wrench from autozone sheared.
BW
-
]what size tire you aimin for? that will determine gearing and how strong the parts will need to be,
Right now the wheeling is mixed fire roads and deserts. Mostly med to high speed runs. So crawling is not as important as travel. I could probably get away w/stock EA82 drive train w/27 inch tires. In the future if I move w/the rig back to the east coast we are looking at mud/some rocks, terrain like up on Washington. At this point I was thinking 30 to maybe 32 inch with a T-case.
Still want to try the EJ screw in diff for strength. But we’ll see.
I should close escrow on my house at the end of the month.
So it’s mostly going to be busy cleaning the place up and stuff.
Will keep people posted about the progress.
So here is where I am going right now
EJ25 frankenstein engine
EA82 5 spd w/XT6 clutch
been a long time USMB
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted
THanks. Here's a copy of the floor plan before and after.
Area in red is mostly untouched except hardwood floors were put down.
Major change was removing the wall between the living room and the kitchen area and re-framing the back part of the house.
The area taken from the kitchen area allowed for a proper master bedroom
I will start a post this weekend in OT for more pics