Legback

Dented oil pan cut the thin blue wire. What do you splice wire with in the tranny?

I also need to be directed to a thread concerning flex plate to TC alignment and proper TC insertion. Is is just a matter of seating the key on the end of the tube way down in there? That long skinny center shaft felt like it settled waayyy down in too. Does the TC and the FP have to line up a certain way?

I used the littlest sockets and put a piece of masking tape in the socket to jam the bolt in. Rip off a 1 inch piece of tape. Lay it over the socket opening sticky side down and push it in with the bolt head. Am I explaining this clearly? Holds the bolt in the socket.

The legacy trans is from a 97 L and the outback is from a 98. Mine is a 98 with no torgue bind ---just a noisy front diff. Nice To know I've got some good useable parts.---Thanks-Trev

I bought a tranny(a year ago) from a regular Legacy--doesn't work in my outback-- Will the oil pan and solenoids work on the Outback tranny I bought yesterday with a dented pan? What else should I do to the new(used) tranny I'm about to put in. For gaskets,seals,o-rings? I It's a 98 Leg-O 2.5 auto. Thanks

If you're on the edge about the battery..have it tested with a good old analog tester(if you can find one). That new fangled Interstate battery computer lies. It had me replace my perfectly good original Denso starter with an inferior napa slow reving remanned crap....what a tragedy. Dig the old analog battery tester out of the drawer just in case the fancy one isn't feeling well.

I thought my tranny was toast for years before I found cyl 3 plug wire with a 9mm friction hole in it. You bet she jerked and spuddered often. I guess I can't complain, I got 80,000 miles out of that set of wires.....sorta.

Battery is SOOO dead it won't even take a jump. New battery first. then go from there.

Putting it in neutral at stoplights works and seems like the easiest thing to do. It's nice to know I'm not the only one with this disease. Thanks to all for your interest and input!! (sorry)Didn't mean to -Trev

You rock Nipper:headbang: I guess I deserve a lump, however, I wouldn't have used those search words. Vibration while stopped yielded essentially the exact same question and mine. I could hardly believe that the same 25 suggestions were on that thread too! My axle is from ADVANCE AUTO PARTS. A GL-S chinese turd. Get a Subaru one? Thanks for taking the time to re-explain.

Those must be some spark plugs if getting them used warrants the use of an exclamation point!!! How much are they new?

The left front axle is not original. IT has 163000. I replaced seals Tbelt idlers etc 1500 miles ago. Plugs and wires about 3000 miles ago. It has to be related to the brakes. Topped off brake fluid and I'm watching the level. Would the calculated Load% on my scantool help determine anything in terms of how much the brake system is taxing the engine? My brake fluid is 50% old. Maybe I should bleed/change brake fluid? Cold dead brake fluid.

Cheers, Bratman. The great north. Having a good snowstorm? That moisture component is making for some slick Soobin' down he-ah! (that's "here" to the rest of you)

Havn't had a chance to plug the vacuuum jose yet. This isn't happening at every stop. It's only some of the time so if it is a hose, it's just barely cracked maybe. I DID just install GL-S from Advance drive axle a couple weeks ago. I can't believe it bouncing around while stopped just due to normal engine vibration. There is no engine vibration normally. Must study further.

I've been messing with my throttle cble nuts and maybe I confused something. should I try unplugging my battery for a few hours to see if the sensors reset? It's only in DRIVE STOPPED(motionless). Can't be a shaft. I did my own timing belt so maybe I F'd it up. It runs suspiciously smooth otherwise. By brake parts going I was thing mastr cylnder or smthing. Does the engine power the brakes at all or is it totally closed? Car idles perfectly in park.

It seems to be getting more intense. There is no vibration at all when I let go of the brakes. The moment I reach a dead stop, this serious vibration begins. It's bizarre. Could a brake line be rotted out somewhere or another component be crapping out? It is a 98.

False alarm. Loose hose clamp on water pump end of lower radiator hose.- Looks like 1600 miles and counting on that frigged up head.

I'm planning on changing that right side only. Is it a bad idea to machine that one side? Does it make sense to get a used head and have it rebuilt to save down time? IF a new head is 350 and it costs 450 to have them both machined, maybe a new head?? It all serves me right really. Cheers.

So for the record everybody!!! When you torque your head bolts to 132 ft ibs instead of in ibs which is like 11 ft ibs............THAT HEAD GASKET IS TOAST! It took 1600 miles. There are no bubbles in the overflow tank and no overheating but the cold coolant level dropped a quarter inch over the last week. An external HG leak. Or I warped something? Or both? Definately using OEM HG this time.

Totally stock 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 DOHC with 167,000 miles. 20 miles to the gallon of 10% Ethanol medium grade 89 octane. Worse with 87. Better with High test. It's what I like least about my Subaru.

I just had an alignment yesterday and the tech said that my caster was off a little but there is no adjustment on most cars for that. He said something about trucks having the cant set a little different on each side to co:headbang:mpensate for road crown or whatever...he was drinking a cup of water while gargling this info to me. At any rate, my car tracks dead straight now.

Is it one of these?? I think I saved the subaru label from the KIT they were in.

It was the drive axle--- All better now.

AHA!! It's is no doubt front left. If the diff wouldn't squeek--- I think my re man'd cv axle is gone after a couple years only. The extra length caused by the bad joint is making the rotor squeek on something? I think I'll get another re-man'd axle for 45 bucks rather than 210 @ the dealer for OEM.