hammer008

Would unplugging the 2pin lock the air in the strut?

Problem: 1990 Subaru Legacy LS Wagon AWD. My rear suspensions are flat with no air and the compressor is pushing air through but not enough to inflate the suspension. I just checked the compressor and the selenoid where the 5 air hoses come together looks cracked and there is a small leak. Can one buy just the 5 air hoses selenoid or should I buy the whole compressor?

Thanks! Bless you!

I am putting a new air strut in the rear and need desparate help. I am transportationless meanwhile. How do you access the electrical and pneumatic connectors for the air strut?...I know it is in the panel beside the rear speaker but I can't seem to figure out how to access it. Further, what is the official way to unhook the brake line from the strut? appreciate any help. I know that some people have cut them with bolt cutters but that sounds less elegant. hammer

How do you access the electrical and air hose for the Air strut...I know it is in the panel beside the rear speaker but I can't seem to figure out how to access it. Further, what is the official way to unhook the brake line from the strut? appreciate any help. hammer

Yup I tried the box end but the fit is not tight enough and I am afraid of eroding the nut if I continue. I will try to find a skinnier closed wrench that will fit between the strut and the cv boot to allow access...I figure the space is about 2 millimeters.. Any other advice?

Hi, I am doing a strut swap in the rear end of a 1990 legacy ls. I am having a problem getting the bottom two nuts off the strut. I got the top bottom nut off no problem but the lower bottom nut I can't seem to get a good hold of because the CV boot is in the way to allow any socket access. How did you guys get that nut off...please let me know... thanks in advance...great board. hammer

I also hope Subaru can a produce diesel too.

I have never changed my plugs for over 100000km. I want to but the engine is just soooo smooth I will leave it alone... 90 legacy ls.

I had this exact problem...the problem just goes away in spring and comes back in winter. After a few winters it just went away by itself.

Everytime I get my brake job at Canadian Tires, the ABS light comes on...after about 1-2 minutes of driving. The ABS works for the first 2 minutes beautifully on snow and then the ABS lights comes on and stops working. When I told them, they looked at me with a blank face and refused to repair my ABS.....this happened twice. The first time, the sub fixed it self after a car wash and a rust inhibitor spray under the car....but not this time.

It's in US$ and miles....thought most people here were American...It is a Canadian winter driven car though. The car is in mint condition bodywise and don't smell like pizza ... and passed the etest if that means anything???....perhaps the engine is still good?? I am going to take a look at it again and ask the guy more questions that have been raised here...but I feel the deal may be gone soon...lots of people looking at it.

Just wondering if I should buy this car. Any advice is appreciated. Apparently the only thing that is not good is that it has 260000 miles on it. Just can't see a regular guy driving so many miles in 5 years.

Been driving with the torque bind for about 100000km without fail. Transmission fluid change helped for about 1000km but came back after. Since the car is worth less than the repair value I will drive it until it dies....but so far so good. The only thing is that if you get cheap tires the binding will will break the tire belts and cause shuttering at high speeds. However, performance tires seems to have solved this problem.