blackbart

You have to pull out the ash tray and you will find two more philips screws, with the heads faceing down, where the ashtray was. You need a realy short subby screwdriver (or use a 1/4" socket with a philips bit in it) Then the plastic comes off. To pull the cassette unit out you have to remove six philips screws, four are easy to see, the other two are set back a bit and you will need a full length screwdriver to get to them.

I was pretty sure that the VLSD was standard on all 1991 Turbos, every 1991 I have seen had one.

I put a switch to the wires that you connect under the dashboard to read the codes. I mounted the switch under the dash, easy to reach but out of plain sight. Now when the CEL comes on I no longer have to crawl under the dash. Frank

I am looking for a few factory service manuals and I found this guy on eBay, anybody have any experience with these? eBay item #7969440325 I tried to cut and paste the URL to this message but the "paste" didn't work in this message, how do I "cut and paste" here?

I have a "new" radiator that I bought for my 1990 Legacy three years ago, when I got rid of the car I striped a bunch of parts including the radiator. If you are sure that this is your problem (or if you want a radiator to see if it is the problem) I am asking $50 for it plus shipping from PA 18824. I paid $135 for it. If you need anything else for your 90 let me know, I saved a lot of stuff.

I bought a 99 Leg for my daughter at an auction, the owner died. It has an aftermarked remote starter/alarm system. Drives me NUTS. There is supposed to be a hidden switch somewhere to disconect it, well it is hidden pretty good. To make matters worse it is programed to lock the doors automaticaly every time the door closes. Well, I live in the country and leave the keys in the car fairly often. They also rigged the car so that you can not open the car with the ignition key (I carry the spare in my wallet), it does nothing but turn. It works on the trunk lock, I learned to make sure the rear folding seats are not in the LOCKED position because that is how i was geting back in. Now I leave the electric door opener in the trunk, I just unlock the trunk and push the button to open the doors. I don't put it on my key ring because then if anybody else uses the car they will be stuck..........this story is too long already, but it is not finished.

Did you get the car started yet? When you turn the key do you hear ANYTHING? If you hear nothing at all, not even a click, push you shift lever with a firm bump forward into the park position and then see what happens.

That's a pretty good describtion of what mine look like, they are 14".

I need all four.

I shapped a chissel to fit into the slot on the axle that the flange on the nut gets crushed into. That pushes the flange out of the flat spot on the axle, then i grab hold of it with a small vice grip and peal the entire flange off, now all I have to deal with is the TIGHT axle nut. Use a long pipe like the rest of us. When you go to remove the ball joint (thanks, FRAG) I found it easier to just take out the 14mm (?) bolt on the top and slide the ball joint down rather than use a pickel fork and damage the boot. You will need the long bar again to pry the ball joint down and out of it's pocket. When you reinstall the new axle shaft into the tranny end make sure that the hole for the spring pin is not turned 180 degs, the hole will be off by a half a tooth and you will see daylight through the hole but the pin will not go through. If you can't tapp it through easy, turn it around 180 deg and try it again. Don't hit it so hard that it snaps off. If that happens your day is gonna suck.

Did you find the problem? I had the same symptoms and never solved it.

Read the artical in this link and see if this sounds like what your problem is: http://www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm

I would never wait that long just to get it out of PARK. If you look down where the shift lever meets the console there is either a red button or a hole with a philips screw in it. If you are lucky and have the red button just press it and the shift lever will be unlocked. If you have the screw, just back it out and stick the screwdriver in the hole, this will do the same thing. I put buttons on my cars that didn't have them. It takes about 10 mins to install the button, you need a flat screwdriver, a philips screwdriver and a 10MM wrench. (I have an extra one for sale, $10 delivered)

I had the same problem in my 90 Leg, the fans came on as soon as I turned the key, I spent days (weeks) trying to find the problem, the temp sensor seemed like the most likely suspect a new one made no difference. I also changed the ECU and tore apart the entire harness looking for a bad wire. I never did find the problem.

Check your temp sensor, my 2.2 has one, I am assuming the 2.5 has one also.

The FWD fuse did not help me find the problem with torque bind. The fuse turns the duty solenoid on and off, this solenoid can be one of the problems that cause torque bind. I had to disconnect the drive shaft at the rear diff and drive in a circle in a parking lot (slow) to see the difference. Sometimes if you change this solenoid it fixes the problem (90-94). Or if you need a rear axle let me know, I have two good ones, $10 ea plus shipping.

Sometimes I have to nudge it forward into PARK a bit harder and then press the button. I replaced the tranny on mine and I think I need to go back into the shift area and make an adjustment.

I had (have) a similar problem, the rear wheels, both sides, would skip when I made slow tught turns. It also jumped forward when I turned the car off, I didn't know the two things were related. I changed the rear diff with a known good spare and nothing changed. I heard about torque bind but didn't understand how it could make the rear axle act that way. There is an artical about torque bind at legacycentral.org. I tryed to copy/past the URL here but it didn't work. I put in a bottle of Lucas Trans stuff until I get better weather to fix it and it is "almost" not noticeable now. Gve the Lucas stuff a try for now.

When you put the car in PARK and turn it off does it lurch forward?

I ONLY had the problem in the rain or a REALY damp/foggy type day. Changed the ECU without results. The ECU I took out worked in the doner car.

YEP, put in a new one, also used jumpers to send signals when the new one made no difference.

My 90 Leg would not start in the damp, I am in PA. I spent ALOT of time trying to find out why, even to the point of unwrapping the wire harness looking for bare wires. When it is damp and not starting do your fans come on? My problem was that when it was damp something told the car that it was warm/hot when is wasn't. Sent the wrong gas mixture?

Case closed. Next?

I was WRONG!!! I just went to the Car Talk website and I was WRONG, Wrong. wrong. I guess I don't know why your cars don't start either. Maybe the tire presure is low, that sounds about as good as my last guess.

I think there was a Car Talk Puzzler similar to this: Some cars were stuck in traffic due to a smokey field fire. When the traffic was allowed to go the cars with the oxygen sensors wouldn't start. I just guessed that was the answer, I never checked.