Stevethefolkie

Curious - was it damp and cold when this bogging happened? If so you may have ice forming in the carb (it doesn't have to be below freezing for this to happen) - I've had it happen on webered VW's in the past. That column of air moving at high speed can really get cold - if that's the case running a pre-heater hose to your intake hose MIGHT help -

First thing I'd check would be tire pressure, then the lugnuts, then I'd jack it up and check the tie-rod ends, ball joints and struts - then I'd check where the front suspension bolts to the underside of the car and make sure nothing came loose (the FS is just bolted to the underside of the pan - 17 or 19mm bolt heads IIRC). I know one thing - I wouldn't drive it again until I figured out and resolved the problem!

Not sure of the laws in your neck of the woods, but if they're aimed correctly (so you're not blinding everyone you come upon) I can't see where the authorities would have an issue. I know there are folks back here in Central Pennsylvania running them on older imports without issue.

Before you go throwing parts at it - figure out what's wrong. This could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter or dying fuel pump! Tow it home, run some diagnostics and then attack the root problem, don't just try to band-aid symptoms at great expense! Diagnosis fee? Fugetaboutit - the "mechanic" didn't diagnose anything. The tow fee? Yeah - you do owe that one.

Ahh .. I'll wave next time we drive up to see her mom!

Just figure out a methane "collector" under the seat and run a 1/8" tube to a vaccum port on the intake manifold - boost at will (consumption of beans, beer and pork can help you gain additional boost, by the way). Where in NY are ya from? My wife grew up in Gouverneur NY (about 100 miles North of Syracuse) ...

My money is on the fuel filter - classic symptoms. Idles fine, runs OK but can't get out of its own way.

I'm somewhat famous for locking my keys in a car - when I was driving American iron I seemed to lock my keys in the car every couple of months. When I started driving Volkswagens insead, I got used to using the key to lock the doors (as you can't or at least couldn't lock the door and then close it on a 'dub) - so I find the Subaru's design to be really nice, since I can secure all four doors with a single twist of the key, and that key is in my pocket, instead of the ignition. But reading the explanation of holding the door handle up explaned to me, at long last, how my daughter managed to lock the keys in the Loyale a couple weeks ago ...

The fact that it was a guy driving a mini-van should have been a red flag:grin: . Normally you're responsible for damage that you do to a vehicle during a test drive - you didn't happen to get bozo the clowns plate number, did you?

try jumpering the fuel pump (disconnect wires, attach 12V to the "+" side and ground the other side) start the car - if it runs then the pump is fine and you need to chase the relay or some other electrical gremlin. DON'T DRIVE AROUND with the fuel pump jumpered - by the way - this is just for diagnostics -

My understanding is that it comes from the cartoon "scooby do" - (which sounds somewhat like "subaru") - as Scooby is a faithful companion who manages to get his humans through all sorts of troubles, doesn't complain and doesn't really ask much of his owners, that makes sense to me.

Not sure of the legality of it - but you could build a fixture to hold the front wheel of the MC to the rear bumper, remove the chain and just use the back wheel (of the bike) as a dolly. Tap into the MC's brake and turnsignals to be extra safe. A CB550 isn't that heavy - it's not like you're planning to haul a gold wing - I'd THINK that this setup would have the least parasitic (wheel and wind) drag -

Thanks very much - I'll add a fudge factor and try to weasle four hours of shop time out of him .... just in case an "aww man, dangit" moment presents itself!

Ok - I've read the writeups - I've got the technology (tools) and I'm an experience mechanic (not on Subaru's, but on a variety of different vehicles) - given that - about how much TIME do you think I should set aside to replace the timing belts, idlers and water pump on a 1991 Loyale? I ask because I'd much rather wrangle some time at a friends shop than muck with the car in the driveway. Note - the timing belts have not broken, this is a pre-emptive fix so my daughter isn't left sitting by the side of the road - so everything will be lined up correctly when I take it apart (which should make it convenient for making my own alignment marks that I KNOW are correct and not have to muck around with locating factory marks and that sorta stuff). I'm figuring on pulling the rad (it'll be replaced at the same time) - it's an automatic FWD if that matters. Thanks Steve

get a buffer wheel for an electric drill and some (mild) abrasives (rubbing compound) - take your time - perhaps put a couple layers of masking tape where you DON'T want to take the gold off - go easy on the pressure - let the abrasives do the work - you should end up with a really sharp looking rim - then either clean it with solvent and clear coat it (to keep it from pitting again - for a little while) or get happy with keeping them clean and waxed every few weeks.

take a pick and post it - I've got a '91 Loyale and have no clue what you're making reference to ....