brokebill

did not help hot starting. it does act like its flooding. pulled the top of the air cleaner off as soon as i cut off the motor and after about 5 minutes of sitting there, the choke started closing. after about 15 minutes it had closed at least half way. had the wife turn it over while i held the choke open and it fired right up. where to go from here? thanks, Bill

ok, i disconnected the duty solenoids and not sure if it helped hot start, but it idles smoother, it has more power, it runs cooler, and it actually runs quieter(not just under the hood but what comes out the exhaust) what is the downside of running with them disconnected? will i have to manually give it a little gas at warm/hot start up since the duty solenoids are disabled? thanks, Bill

cleaned and wd40 the cts connections, no change on hard hot start. without touching the gas pedal, let it turn over till it started (after warm) ( cold start and choke still working fine) and seems to be flooded . took bout 7 seconds to fire and smell of gas was strong. ran fine after starting. havent tried hot cranking with duty solenoids unplugged yet. thanks, Bill

never had cold start issues, choke and fast idle seem to work great. when warm or hot it used to always catch the second you bumped the key. couple months ago it started turning over 3-7 sconds before it would catch when warm or hot. i've tried pumping the gas , holding it to the floor, holding it barely down, not touching it at all (the way it used to work just fine) and every combination. if i cut it off for less than 5 minutes, it fires right up without touching the gas just like it always used to, but when it sits for 10 min to a couple hours it gives me trouble. its never not started but my starter dont need the abuse. runs out wonderful, just suddenly got harder to start when hot. at times when hard starting it does seem like its flooded(gas smell) but i cant say its everytime. thanks for the good job explaining the cts . it always helps to have an understanding of things as opposed to just blindly changing or even fixing things without ever knowing what you actually did. thanks, Bill

just troubleshooting a hard hot starting problem that started a couple months ago and from looking up old threads that seems to be a common cause of it. it would be nice to have it in laymens terms how this part contributes to hard hot starting problems. thanks, Bill

when hunting this part will it be called a cts, a thermosensor or what? the ones i keep pulling up are either 1 prong or the 2 prongs are parrallel instead of a t shape. part # anybody? thanks, Bill

think i found it. pas. side manifold with 2 wires (yellow and yellow/green i think) to late to fool with tonight but at least i found it. thanks, Bill

its carbed (hitachi)(feedback). i swear with all the sensors and relays etc. i am starting to seriously think about a weber. wouldnt that eliminate most of this crap? i'll check for the cts tomorrow and clean up the connections on it and see how it does. i wondered why the posts i read on the subject kept referring to the manifold. figured it was just a difference in models. thanks for pointing the right direction zukiru, Bill

ok, is the cts on my car located in the radiator? (just to be sure i'm fooling with the right part) went to unplug it and the wire broke at the end of the connector. with the one wire off and the other still connected, the electric cooling fan wouldn't kick on when the temperature got to where it should have. cleaned the green gunk out of the connector and reattached the wire. the electric fan started working on cue again, but hard hot starting issues persist. if this is the cts i'm messing with could it be corroded on the side in the liquid, causing my hard hot start issues as most threads i've read on the subject are cured by cleaning the contacts and wires? also is this part an oem neccessity or will aftermarket be fine? thanks, Bill

not oem pcv valve, just whatever advance had. and you mean the little filter in the air cleaner that looks like a piece of a scotchbrite pad? its good. thanks, Bill

duty solenoids, thanks. and the black plastic thing (about the size of a soda can cut in half) the duty solenoids tie into is called what? one of the plastic nipples on this black plastic part that the vac lines hook to is broken and i just have it patched so i'll have to replace or bypass (if possible) it. as for pcv, the valve seems fine, the hoses that tie into the system are not blocked or collapsed so what am i overlooking that explains the oil? thanks, Bill

pcv valve and hoses seem ok so oil is probably blow by in an extremely high mileage motor. tried to lower idle speed again, same results, erratic and rough. hunting vacuum leaks and seems to be one in the black plastic thing that is mounted next to (against) the oil filler neck. it has 2 vac hoses coming out of it both feeding into 2 small "things" with wires coming out of them (sensors? relays?) what is the plastic black thing and what are the 2 contraptions it feeds into/off of? can i bypass the black plastic thing and just hook the 2 hoses from it together or plug them? thanks for the id (feel silly just calling them things) and any knowledge on this subject. thanks, Bill

anybody?

once i cut the idle below 1500, its like cutting it to 100. it dies at every stop and starts slightly missing occasionally at different points throughout the driving range. overall just runs worse. when i do cut it below 1500, and it starts acting up, it doesnt immediately smooth back out after cutting back up to 1500+ but instead will continue to run crappy for a day or so then smooth out. (off the oil topic but was gonna post on this idle issue anyhow) any advice on this subject appreciated (besides the obvious get a Weber) thanks, Bill

havent noticed any new symptoms to go along with the breather oil. aside from recent hot start issues it actually runs out very well. also i have to set the idle at 1500+ for it to idle smooth. it wont idle right below that. it dont just seem to idle smoother at 1500+, it truly does smooth out. i'm thinking that may be egr related since i've heard that after about 1500+ rpm the egr is taken out of the loop. hope thats not too much info but just trying to let yall get a feel for the car (a true beater but i love it) thanks, Bill

86 GL wagon,5spd,2wd, carb i keep finding traces of oil in the air filter housing. pcv valve is about new. any ideas why this is happening? thanks, Bill

86 GL wagon1.8carb.,2 wd i have some hard hot starting issues that sounds cts related. is simply unplugging the cts an option? thanks, Bill

jb welded a bolt in there yesterday and let it cure ovenight, tightened the nut up this morning and its held for a couple hours of driving so far. probably wont hold long so its good to know the tap sizes. thanks yall, Bill

thanks a lot for the info. on a different note, good to see WV in here. i was born & bred in southern WV. thanks again, Bill

would jb weld hold?

86 GL station wagon. 1.8 carb 2wd car suddenly got louder. one of the studs and nut was loose on the exhaust manifold. it wouldnt tighten up. its stripped where it screws into the manifold(not the stud, the manifold) any way to fix it without getting the hole tapped out? maybe some self tapping screws or something? thanks in advance, Bill

thank you very much for the advice and the offer. i actually took the lock washer and and lock plate off both sides of the junker so i have a spare now( I'm a firm believer in spare parts) but i'm sure someone will be needing them. i've almost had to total cars over simple little parts that were hard to find in the past so again thanks for the offer. thanks, Bill

how tight should the rear axle nut be on a 2 wheel drive? the ones i took off all seemed little more than finger tight. thanks, Bill

update: got one off a 92 or 93 loyale at the j.y. outside of the car looked rough but the dash, seats, visors and most of the interior was in unbelievable condition. interior was that bluish-grey color in case anyone close was interested. thanks, Bill

afraid of that. anyone know what years / models interchange? time for a junkyard trip. thanks, Bill