brokebill

thanks. did the same thing last year till the weather cooled down. wonder why it only does it in hot weather? thanks, Bill

i've changed 3 in about 4 years on mine. all after market. good luck Bill

late fall, winter, early spring started lke a champ.choke seemed to work fine. fired right up whether first thing in the morning or at any time in the day after being cut off for any length of time. seems 70 degrees plus outside and it starts being a pita to start again. 86 gl 2wd 5spd, feedback hitachi. choke related? thanks, Bill

i cant seem to find replacement rear coil springs for my 86 GL 2wd wagon. old posts seem to steer towards using front springs off an 86-89 accord. does anyone know the factory specs for my spring so i can match it up at Moog? thanks, Bill

years and years ago, i found a spray can tint. i don't remember who made it , but it may be an option if they still make it. good luck, Bill

blower motor quit working.(coldest spell of the year) tested the wire at the blower motor for power. it had power. ran power straight to the fan just to be sure and still nothing. figured i'd have to get a new one so just for the sake of curiosit i'd open it up and have a look. looked a whole lot like a power window motor i patched in my Ford. same problem to. one of the spring-loaded wired contacts had came lose and half of one of the springs was gone. a dab of super glue to reattach the contact to the wire , a thick ink pen spring, and now i have heat again. (my wife was wonderful in helping put it back together since it takes 4 hands to keep all those little parts together during reassembly) wired it up backwards the first time so pulled it back off and we pulled it apart and fixed it right. i will get one my next trip to pullapart but it will do for now. also, isn't the blower motor out of a lot of mazdas interchangeable into my subaru? thanks, Bill

i love the site, unlimited info, a lot of people that know what they're talking about. but, i hate threads that have no ending. i know the main thing is a solution to whatever problem the author my have had, but it would be good to know if and how a problem was fixed. there are relative old threads to just about everything but most have no indication of an outcome. fixed, still broke,set on fire and pushed over a hill, something. not complaining, just hate loose ends and unfinished stories. thanks, Bill

leaky valve covers. checked the bolts and 1 was freespinning. i think i can get to it with a tap. what are the bolt and tap sizes i need for this? thanks, Bill

i love that easy access. been off a year and belts/pulleys aint even dirty. good luck, Bill

i've been to countless junkyards but i havent been to a pull a part yet. do you just pay an admission, find out where your particular car is and then just have at it? also, i saw something about no jacks so how am i supposed to remove brake calipers, shocks etc. ? what cars and years are interchangeable (mostly suspension, brake , axles) with my 86 GL 2wd, 5 spd, hitachi carbed, wagon? thanks, Bill

my oldest son has a 93 and 95 honda civic. just wondering if anybody knows of any good honda forums. thanks, Bill

not to jump to conclusions with a minimum of details, but, kinda sounds like the so very common broken timing belt. (thats the way i've had em go out before, sudden and without warning) good luck, Bill

thats what i kept seeing too and then wondered why after cutting off the key the only code it would flash was the model designation code. i believe it was GD who correcty informed me that the engine must remain running with the ecs light still on to retrieve the code and that it cleared when the engine was switched off. as far as the test connectors and all that to clear the codes, it must be a broad statement that covers various make and models, but did not apply to my carbed 86 GL wagon. the engine has to be running with the ecs light still on. the ecs dash light does not flash the codes. remove the panel directly below the steering column and you will find a small box with flashing red light. i have not had to connect or disconnect anything to get and clear my codes. hook things back up the way you found them first, and once you have found and read the led light under the dash, you'll be suprised how simple it is. thanks Bill

i had to change the hose for the pcv valve on mine. i tried seafoaming it and it opened it up a little but not enough. also the first time i changed the hose it was a little too big and didnt seal well and my problems continued until i put on a proper sealing hose. once you get it to stop blowing oil, your carb will probably need a real good cleaning to function right again. mine did. good luck, Bill

you ever figure it out? on my 86 GL, when the ecs light comes on : 1. i leave the motor running with the light still on(once the key is turned off the code is cleared) 2. with the motor running and ecs light on just remove the screws holding on the cover below the steering wheel.(i can just emove a couple and kinda pull down on it a little, just enough to see the flashing O2 light) 3. take note of what it flashes and thats it. what kept messing me up was the thought that the trouble codes would be stored after the key was turned off. they are not. also on mine, there was no need to plug or unplug any test connectors before reading the O2 light. just leave it running(when the ecs light comes on) pull down the cover and read the codes. ps: my ecs light always comes on after a few minutes of driving due to the speedometer being unhooked. it gives me a speed sensor code. good luck, Bill

thanks, i probably will end up making the fan solid.(cant seem to find a listing for an aftermarket fan clutch anyhow) it seems to be holding solid now since i replaced the o ring and reinstalled a 180^ thermostat. i think my latest cooling problems were probably due to the leaking o ring . the leaking caused the pressure to drop (kinda like a bad radiator cap) which changed the boiling point. i think. sound logical? its been a couple weeks now and it holds steady even under hard heavy loads so..... thanks, Bill

i sometimes go weeks without checking my mail. for some reason i dread it to the point that its some kind of phobia.(although i havent found one named after fear of checking mail) what circuits does the black fusible link protect/control on my carbed ea82? thanks, Bill

finally had time to change the o ring. the Napa part # is BK 727-2216(i had them take one out of a waterpump box that had one included and match it) also reflushed everything and re-installed a 180^ thermostat.(thats what had been in it the first few years i had the car) test drove it and it seemed to do real good . nothing left unchanged but the waterpump so if it dont act right now i'll change it. it had still been running within limits the last few weeks {never got above 1/2) just didnt like the way the temp would jump under slight loads. thanks, Bill

finally checked my mail and they were here. thank you very much for your time and trouble. thanks, Bill

gotta be done. looks like the most popular replacement is the Monroe #71222. is this right? also i've saw on old posts that it is pretty easy to compress the rear springs by hand. is this so? any tips on the subject appreciated. thanks, Bill

make sure its not a stripped out hub ( the hub end of the axle will be visibly spinning when in gear although the car wont move) good luck, Bill

thank you very much. Bill

pm sent. thanks, Bill

looking at my fusible links and noticed the one that should be black has been replaced with a heavy piece of wire soldered to prongs. i remember seeing a post a while back that many people keep extras from old cars and was hoping that somebody still had some spares. i really need a black one but wouldn't mind having spares for the green and red ones too if possible. thanks, Bill

i popped the hood on my 86 GL ea82 2wd 5spd carbed wagon and i have 3 sets of test connectors (i think) that are in that area and have all the colors you describe (plus some more). plus the master cylinder itself has 2 wires going to it. is yours a running working car that everything works on? or are those mystery wires keeping it from running? do all your dash lights (brake,etc.) come on when the key is turned forward, engine off? good luck, Bill