brokebill

i believe that may be the source of the leak. the small amount it loses pools in a small recess below the waterpump and drips out underneath behind the inner timing belt cover. the inlet pipe is right against the top of the inner timing belt cover so no room to get my fingers in there but i noticed the pipe had a little play in it where the o ring would be. anybody have the part number or size for the o ring? i know the one i take off will be too out of sorts to compare and would be nice to get it first try. thanks, Bill

yeah, might as well replace it as long as i'm in there. i just hate replacing what appears to be OEM parts with aftermarket stuff. oh well, 1 more old spare part to put in the back. thanks, Bill

i have to strongly agree . to eyeball them they look dead on but i had to repeatedly redo mine till i got it right. i'll probably have to the next time too. if you leave your front covers off (mine were busted anyhow) you can redo them in less than 30 min. good luck, Bill

been a week or 2 and it seems to be doing pretty good. but.. been losing a slight amount of coolant so crawled under the car with a flashlight tonight and finally found where it seems to be coming from. it looks as though its coming from where the waterpump bolts up. its not coming from the weepholes. since my timing belt covers are off, i can see pretty good and it appears to be coming from the very bottom of the waterpump against the motor. would a little leak here cause the slight fluctuation in my temperature? i guess i need to change the waterpump or is this a case where i may just need to put a new gasket on my old waterpump? thanks, Bill .... i did not get a chance to stop by Subarus R US.

have flushed the block and heater core probably 20 times (literally) over the last couple weeks. have flushed the block from the thermostat to the bottom of the block, from the bottom of the block back out the top, flushed out the block through the 2 heater hose connections on back of block. flushed the heater core , backflushed, reflushed,,.....(never saw any color or chunks from heater core) i've flushed it with the motor running with the motor off through every combination of hoses and openings. then installed a new radiator. is there a particular nook/cranny in the block somewere that may not be responding to the numerous flushings? thanks, Bill

ok, i've drove it a couple days now and it has yet to get up to 1/2 where the electric fan comes on. coolant level when totally cold in the mornings has not changed so appears to be no leaks internal or external. after going over the old posts through the years on thermostats, i'm hoping the aftermarket stat may not be flowing like it should. have seen many posts where oem thermostats have stabilized the same symptoms i have. so rather than drilling a hole in the aftermarket stat, i'm gonna pick up an oem. overall cooling is good, just drifts a little more than i wish it would when going from coasting to load . thanks, Bill

antifreeze mixed 50/50. i always buy 100% then split it up in 2 jugs and top em off. yep, 2nd aftermarket thermostat in a month, both with properly placed jiggle pins. (what are their function anyhow?) havent seen bubbles in the coolant. what would that indicate? head gasket? supposed to be going to carolina soon so i'll track down an oem thermostat while there. if i can, i'll stop and look at the subaru place beside the interstate(subarus r us) and see if they have much ea stuff since they didnt seem to have much ej stuff from the "stranded in asheville" post. temp is still in acceptable range (still just a little higher than when at best) after driving today. semi local napa has the water pump in stock (including gasket, o ring and new studs in one box) and since my timing belt covers are off shouldn't be too hard to change if it would fail. may go ahead and change it payday since everything else is new and put the old one in the back with the rest of the spare parts. thanks,Bill

its at least 4 years old. was in it when i got the car. didnt really look new then but still really dont look bad now. be a shame to just scrap such a well built one. water pumps at least 4 yrs old also. took the car out today and ran it pretty hard up every mtn around and the temp is still a little higher than it used to be, but never got quite to 1/2 (electric fan usually kicks on right above the 1/2 mark) maybe thats just where it wants to sit now but still seems odd. is it better to have a temp gauge and worry yourself to death or just have a dummy light and live in ignorant bliss until theres a real problem? thanks,Bill

thanks. its 190^ thermostat (not OEM) i know everybodys gauge will read different so i have to go with where mine usually set when performing at its best. my thermostat still opens about 1/4 (judging bythe top hose) and will stay here till i start driving and put it under load. it then will rise to the 1/3 mark(or higher under extreme load) and stay there unless i'm coasting downhill with a lot of air moving and then it will get back close to 1/4 till the next time its under load. its not so much how high the temp gets as it is the fact that its overall not cooling as good as it recently did. i'm also kind of picturing worn/broken impellers on the water pump. would broken/eroded impellers explain the restriction in the radiator as well? thanks, Bill

is that with a 190^ thermostat? thanks, Bill

Frank, (or anyone who has changed from a heavier to cheaper constructed radiator) did you once have the heavier built radiator in yours? i ask because we both just used the exact same autozone replacement radiator and with this new cheap aluminum and plastic one, the temperature sets at about 1/3 where my better built old one (when right) sat at about 1/4 and hardley ever budged even under load. just wondering if you had similiar differences and if less price means less cooling. thanks, Bill

thanks. double connector so good there. put it in and ran it up and down some hills. seems to be ok. my old radiator is a lot better built than this one so i'm gonna see about maybe having it boiled and cleaned out. with this cheap plastic and aluminum one, the temperature sits at about 1/3 and seemed stable under load. my old one (when it was working right) sat at about 1/4 and stayed there under load. i also removed the ac condenser while i was in there to get some more air flow.(anything nonfunctioning i try to remove to clear up room to work anyhow) flushed and backflushed the heater core with a 5/8 female garden hose repair end .(neat trick) looks like i have the water pump with the longer measurement.(gap between water pump body and hub is pretty obvious compared to the shorter one once you look at it) so thats good if i need one since the shorter ones seem to cost more. i'll know for sure in the next couple days if that fixed him. thanks, Bill

got my new plastic/aluminum radiator. how do i cap/plug the 2 lines on the radiator for the automatic application that i dont need? thanks, Bill

thanks, finally got a visual/mental grasp on the water pump sizes. i'll just look at mine when i pull the fan out for the radiator and should be able to tell. not gonna replace it if it dont need it but just in case, how do you go about getting the replacement o ring for the pipe in the water pump? not finding it listed anywhere, just the water pump mounting gasket. thanks, Bill (and the mileage on this car is unknown. was stopped at about 170k and may not have been working for years before i got it 3 or 4 years ago)

ordered an autozone radiator today so maybe get to put it in tomorrow evening. may end up replacing water pump too for good measure. what size is the heater hoses so i can get one of those water hose adapters to flush out the heater core good? thanks for all the help. Bill

thanks for the heads up on the hoses. best of luck, Bill

update results,opinion on this radiator when you get done please. thanks, Bill

appear to be at least 3 different lengths for water pump. ?????????????? even if i may not need it today, i might tomorrow so trying to get it figured out. thanks, Bill

ok, had the little test done for exhaust fumes in the radiator neck to ease my mind on the possibility of a head gasket issue. test detected no exhaust fumes. felt around on the radiator real good and noticed that the bottom 2 or 3 inches all the way across the radiator was not nearly as hot as the rest of the radiator. sound like the problem? any chance an air pocket could be causing this? thanks, Bill

bumping up the timing a little on my carbed 86 ea82 did wonders for my low end bog. i have had great results with the seafoam deep creep(spray can instead of liquid) i recently gutted my cat and the fine particles had a strange smell when they burnt out.(if you gut it make sure to get it all out or a loose chunk will end up causing problems) good luck, Bill

timing belts bout 6 months ago. why is the water pump so hard to change? on the water pump, how can you tell which one you have(short or long)? didnt i see somewhere about being able to tell which one it is by the way the fan or pulley bolts to the water pump? thanks, Bill

drained and flushed with water,poured in the prestone flush, topped off with water, ran it, drained it, filled with water again, ran it, drained it, then pulled the thermostat, used a hosepipe to flush the crap out of the block and radiator. installed a new thermostat and bottom radiator hose(it needed it) put it back together and filled with water/coolant. took it down the road and acted the same way. not hot, just a little warmer than it was a few days ago on average but a lot more animated(sitting briefly in traffic or on even a slight incline the gauge will go from 1/3 to 1/2 lots) when im just cruising down the road it pretty much sits solid on 1/3. for the last month it would sit on 1/3 or even 1/4 and not budge except under extreme load and then would not even get to 1/2. i just cant understand how it would straighten up perfectly and then ..... i know, its a subaru but.. radiator, water pump? i hate to just throw money at it until something finally works. surely these symptoms add up to something diagnosable. thanks, Bill

experiences vary. any chance of moving this to the vendors forum and giving some good deals in these hard times? thanks, Bill

not to hijack, but i'm also probably gonna have to get one so good to know your hassle with the 2 rows. by the way, autozone can 1 day the 1 row $99 if yours is the same application as mine. good luck and thanks for saving the rest of us the trouble/time of reordering the wrong parts due to their misinformation/crap. thanks, Bill

yes, they do