brokebill

86 GL wagon 5spd carb front wheel drive. back brakes were acting up so removed the rear axle nut and drum and had a look. in the process i noticed the lock plate and lock washer which slide onto the keyed axle/spindle before the nut were both wore out and had no "nub" left to hold them in place. does anyone know where i can order these 2 parts as i can find no one who can get them and i assume i'll lose a wheel if they dont function. thanks in advance, Bill

thanks everyone. started it up this morning, let it fast idle till warm, and then mashed down on the gas pedal expecting it to bog down. but instead it ran great, like nothing was ever wrong. could it have been air/vapor locked? maybe a piece of something in the carb? thanks again and appeciate the feedback. Bill

i've been outside the last few hours and have set the timing to make sure it is ok sprayed everything under the hood with carb cleaner looking for a vac leak sprayed every moving part and wire or connector with wd40 deepcreep seafoamed the carb. lotsa smoke , but no help. has been running the best he ever has lately and just did this out of the blue. idling perfect , but as soon as i touch the gas , it tries to die unless i nurse it then stomp it. thanks, Bill

little different problem, but all my carb info is on this thread so here goes, got the idle straightened out, ended up working the egr valve up and down a few time and smoothed him right out. pulled out in traffic today and had to get in the gas pretty hard. started bogging down and running rough. once i'm moving and stomp the gas , it will go pretty good. pulling out and light acceleration its awful. has done this a couple times months ago when i got in it hard pulling out but the car wasnt warmed up good and went away after a few seconds when it did it before. had to drive about 20 min. to get home today and it didnt clear up. pulled a couple plugs and looks like it was running lean on the way home. this car puts food on the table , so, Help! thanks, Bill

take a deep breath and count to 1,000,000 everyone! seriously though, its good to know the people i seek my advice from are so passionate about Subarus. thats a good thing. EA82T means turbo? if so, are the nonturbo EA82 known to be as flawed? thanks, Bill

was anyone able to sort through all that data in the study and come to a conclusion on what is supposed to be the best overall filter? Bill

yall sure have squashed all my ingrained southern beliefs about rude Yankees ! LOL! i thought mine was an EA82. thats whats stamped on the motor, although i have no idea if its the original motor for the car. thanks again for all the help and generosity. Bill

thanks, your advice helps give a pretty good mental picture of whats in there and how to go about it. like anything , its not really clear until you do it yourself. as far as "definitive thread", some said it was a pain to do and some say its easy. some say its a good fix and some say its a waste of time. i guess it depends on the condition of the piston & bore, but $5 compared to $100, its surely worth a shot especially considering the questionable overall shape of the car. may run for years or may not start the next time i turn the key. sincerely appreciate the advice, as with all the other problems yall have helped me to fix and or comprehend. thank you all, Bill

thanks, yeah i've had occasional trouble with the axle nut on the other side (caused by no grease/wrong grease) and it made it make a variety of strange noises so i'm gonna pull them apart tomorrow and double check that. seems like this noise started around the time i noticed the rubber around the caliper (boot?seal? not sure what is called what) was twisting & bunching but as i keep finding out , nothing is for sure with a subaru. i've had trouble out of one side before but the noise was coming from the other side.(hub stripped) so cant rule anything out. is there a definitive thread on rebuilding the caliper? i've found a few, but they sometimes conflict each other. appreciate all the help and advice. Bill

yeah, i'm sure the wheel bearings probably need attention also. everything on the car needs attention. i go to fix 1 thing and in the process find several things in need. if i could afford it i'd put new axles, carb, alternator,etc.... have to just patch as best i can though as it is my breadwinner and like my name implies......i'm broke. reason i'm thinking its the caliper is my cheapo pads on that side lasted about 2 months (1 month with old turned rotors way below specs) and noticed the pads were starting to crack. rode them a couple weeks with my new rotors and exchanged them. rode fine a couple days and then started again. took them back off and noticed caliper notch and "pin" on back of pad were not lined up any more. turned piston in till lined up and rode better than ever for a couple more days, then same thing. its not a loud right now and caliper & pad is still lined up (today) but it will probably be unaligned the next time i look. sorry so long , but trying to be detailed so yall know where things stand. thanks, Bill

86 GL wagon, 5spd , front wheel dr., carb. have new pads and rotors. its lined up right (notch in caliper & back of pad) right front caliper rubber around piston is bunched up. brakes work, but get a grinding noise at times when stopping. suspect the caliper piston is not working correctly causing the noise. can also "feel it" in the brake pedal when i hear the noise. new calipers are outrageous so wondering if the $5-$10 kits to repair them might help and how hard it would be to do. never had a caliper apart so appreciate any input on the subject. thanks, Bill

what is the white car in the background of the first pic of the yellow subaru? what other cars besides the subarus that you saw stand out in your memory? weeds and rust and all, places like that are a goldmine and sure spark a lot of junkyard memories for me. i could be buried in a place like that. thanks, Bill

86-GL-wagon-1.8-carb-front wheel dr.-5spd last couple of months i've been seeing oil on the top of the dipstick(where the little arrow is) like its pushing up the dipstick tube. oil pressure seems the same and isn't using any more oil than usual. anybody have any idea what may be causing this? thanks, Bill

just a quick update, checked for codes today and it only showed the 11 code for the make and model. can't find anything that looks like it is or could have been the HAC so thats probably not it. still wondering about the fuel mix screw since i know its been messed with but afraid i may just make it worse if i fool with it. thanks, Bill

since it runs out well and doesn't idle that bad(when set at 1000-1200 rpm cant even notice it) not enough of an issue to swap yet. Good to know when the time comes though what i need to do. been reading up on the feedback carbs and you sure are right about all the crap on them. ridiculous piece of engineering! couple questions, why does it even have the idle mixture screw with all the systems built in mixture adjusting crap? and since i'm at a fairly high altitude could the HAC system be playing a role in the slightly rough idle or is mine probably not equipted with that? thanks for the tips, Bill

so to try and sum it up in my mind; 1- the original carb was replaced with a troublesome thing? 2- be glad it runs out as good as it does? 3- if and when it craps out replace it with one of the forementioned carbs? is that about right? thanks, Bill

i'm trying. thanks, Bill

i think it may already be gone cause i sure don't see it. could that be what the "mystery" hose to the right of the pic once attached to? overlook my pic posting ability, i have an odd setup & still learning.

from the threads i've found on the subject usually the mixture screw is covered by a plug or something but mine is not. its a recessed screw completely visible on the front of carb just below the idle adjuster screw. correct? i know it should be left alone but they started it so i guess i have to finish it. also, should my idle adjusting screw have a little up and down play in it? idle responds correctly (faster or slower) when turning the screw,but with the tip of the screwdriver i can feel and see a little up and down, side to side play. thanks, Bill

through receipts i found in it when i got it, a carb had just been put on. dont know if it was junkyard, old rebuilt ,or how competent the people who did the work were. when i had a timing belt put on last year by a garage (ive since replaced belts , idler pulley,tension adjusters myself, thats how i found usmb) i know for fact they messed with the mixture screw thinking it was the idle adjusting screw. how would i go about adjusting mixture screw without making things worse since thats a real possible cause of my problem? thanks, Bill

my carbed 86 GL wagon fluctuates 200-300 rpm when idling. it went away last week for a couple days and had never ran smoother. couldn't even tell it was running when at a red light. now its back. runs out fine but idles poorly again. dont know why it left or why it returned. has pretty much idled this way the whole time i've had it (about 3 yrs)and if it hadn't cleared up for a couple days wouldn't have thought anything about it. after knowing how smooth it can run, would like to get it that way for good. i know theres a million things that can cause this but would appreciate some advice on the most likely culprit. it has fairly new plugs, wires and fuel filter and it didn't clear up after doing anything particular to it. just cleared up on his own and went back to its old ways on its own. thanks, Bill ----------------- forgot to add, i have sprayed around with carb cleaner looking for vac. leaks. no luck, and used some seafoam deep creep today in the carb. didn't smoke very much after i used it and sadly it didn't seem to help.

yeah it would help keep from riding the clutch on some of these mountain intersections as i have to drive on some of the crappiest back roads i've seen. but i'm sure these mtns are nothing like what colorado has.

one of the first problems i had with my 86 GL 2wd wagon was the hill holder. my front wheels started locking up after i would stop. looked through my haynes manual and heard for the first time about the hill holder. i disconnected it under the hood and zip tied it out of the way and that fixed the problem. wondering if it is worth the trouble of repairing and if so what could have went wrong with it in the first place. can live without it but at times it could come in very handy. thanks, Bill

i finally had to buy a $40 advance auto light (thanks Skip still working on the old style light , it will work great with my old Falcon) and i had the belts a tooth off and also had to turn the distributor all the way to get it to run(but didnt last) after setting the timing belts right and setting the timing with a light, i found i could advance it a couple degrees and it increased power considerably and evened out a low end flat spot that had always been in the car. But, you NEED a timing light to set it right and be able to slightly adjust to your cars preferance. I did learn this the hard way! hope this helps. Bill

just put it back together and ended up getting 1/4". matched up to mine good. mines non turbo so maybe the difference in 1/4 & 5/16. thanks again for the help.will lay in good supply when i find OE type.