lilpusher

ok seperated those wires as stated and still stuck at crank no start. Any chance I may have cooked the ECM? Oh and a word to the wise : this is why you don't by an engine without a full wiring harness to swap over and when the recycler hands you the Ecm with about a foot of wires hanging off it like some crazy rats nest.... tell him where to stick it !!!

i'll double check. thanks.

ok so I 've got a 98 legacy 2.2L going into a 92 loyale. It cranks, the fuel pump primes, won't start, (haven't checked spark yet) here is the thing I'm stuck on there is a wire shown on the front page of the legacy wiring diagram that starts at (ST ig sw) runs to starter interlock, N. Pos. S/W, ecu pins 82 ,75, 17, and 18. then it finally goes through engine wiring harness to an indirect ground (whatever that means.) so I didn't like the idea of having starter circuit voltage going through the computer. I put in a fuse and its constantly blowing during cranking. I wired it into one of the two ignition sw wires that is hot only during cranking (st position) My first thought is why is a starter voltage carying wire running through the computer and straight to ground with no load ( explains blown fuses ). Any ideas I'm completely stumped. thanks

Thanks guys. i've got the ej relays but plan to keep the ea pump. I don't forsee any issues. that link was a HUGE help. well about twenty hours of wiring later.... ( built my own harness ) I'm almost done. Definately in debt to this community. Everyone has been very helpfull.

I've been searching everywhere for some pinouts of the main relay and fuel pump relay on my 92 loyale 4wd wagon. since I'm swapping to an ej I really don't want to spend a ton for a whole factory service manual... Anyone got anything for me?:-\

thanks guys. Yes the search function is a mighty tool. And yes I was feeling a lil lazy after spending all of my Saturday wrenching on the ol beast. Thanks for doing my work for me. cheers!

yes is is all great info IF the crank and both cams are in time. that's the problem mine slipped out of time and crank sprocket was never marked before belt slipped and was removed.. I am aware this is an interference engine which is why I CAN NOT just start turning the sprockets till they are lined up. That is precisely what happens when a belt brakes going down the road, and how valves get bent. So the question is Knowing that the crank only moved +/- 10deg , and I was only able to mark the original position of the cam sprockets in relation to the belt and not the crank.... Am I looking at pulling heads and putting #1 at TDC then aligning all pulleys before assembly, OR is there another SAFE way. Thanks a fistful.

got a new engine for my wagon (98 2.2l) the left timing cover was missing, but i turned it over a few times to make sure it was in time. well i thought i'd be slick and just pop off the cam gear and slip the cover behind it. not a good idea. the crank pulley had to come off etc etc. I did mark both cam sprockets but they aren't lined up now. ( the crank sprocket moved slightly when removing the crank pulley.) So is there any way to get it back in time without pulling the heads???!!! thanks.

I just put a 2.2L out of 98 legacy into my 92 loyale. problem is the obd2 ecu needs a Vehicle Speed Sensor signal and the loyale has a cable driven speedo. Any ideas? anyone?

98 2.2L going into ea82 wagon. using 98 header. custom bending cat-back exhaust. I found a 98 front cat for descent price so I guess we'll see how it goes.

ok so that collector on the 2.2l Y pipe is ridiculous! that's besides the point. Will the stock 98 legacy front Cat fit in an ea82? What have others done?

I sure hope those aren't torque to yeild bolts!!! You will be in a world of hurt.

I made a vise-grip adapter for attatching to a come along yesterday. Great stuff! 2 1/2" 5/16X18 grade 8 bolt. add threads all the way up the shank. weld two chain lings to head of bolt. Probably the most memorable tool I made was a limited access 12mm wrench. Didn't have a vise or a torch to put a curve in it. I did have a seven pound sledge and a curb. All fun and games untill it rocketed across the street and dented the neighbors garage door at 1am! oops.

I got a 2.2L from a '98 legacy m/t. The recyclers refused to remove any of the harness and only would give me the ecu connector with a length of wire. Any way of figuring out which wire goes to which pin? thanks.

So I'm doing an engine swap and all I was able to get from the uber lazy recyclers was 2 feet of wire coming from the ECU. I have a detailed diagram of the pin locations, but there is no way of telling which wire goes to which pin. Any one have a clue on this one? the engine and ecu came frome a 2.2L m/t.

Enlighten us please. How does adding another drive axle reduce top speed? Top speed is usually determined by Hp, drag, and final drive ratio. Oh and generaly speaking a tire losing traction is not doing much to accelerate a vehicle. Good choice going with all wheel drive. More weight is NEVER the answer for better traction on a drag car.

something to considder. By replacing the headers you are changing the exhaust scavanging. Headers and cams are mated parts. You may very well end up losing low end power. You will however see some gains at top end. This would follow suit with what was said earlier about gains over 4k. It all depends upon what you are looking for I guess.

Ok so i picked out some tires for my ea82 wagon. (general grabber AT2) now what size? I can fit up to 225/75/15 or go down to 205/75/15. Now the larger is 8 pounds heavier 3/4 inch taller and .8 inches wider. So knowing that low low gearing is not going to happen and i'm stuck with 1.59 reduction what would be best for not stalling the old girl in the snow or out in the woods here in washington? By the way did stall in the middle of the creek up at fish lake a few weeks ago with 28's and no low range. Help?!

So my clutch is getting worn and i want something better. I'm mostly concerned with getting a stronger pressure plate. you know more spring pressure equals more grip. Any ideas?

who would have thought?.... Decided to go with proline towers and bars and am welding up a basket from 1/2" EMT electrical conduit highly reccomend using a resperator tried it without and just using the lincoln vacuum hoods at work and i got real sick. pics when done.

i strongly dissagree! stoichiometry ie. 14 : 1 air fuel ratio is intended to produce BEST EMISSIONS to power ratio. If you follow racing you would notice many people run in the range of 12:1. this results in more power but worse emissions. enough fuel to increase performance but not enough to wash cylinder walls.

hey all! I'm looking to build my own safari rack and need some feet and cross bars. anyone know if the proline stuff will fit an EA82 wagon? what are my options? thanks:-\

search tick of death or tick of doom. sounds awefull i know

imho I'd say your on the right track. try to find similar tread depths. On newer cars i would say no way. Just a few 16ths off between tires can screw up traction controll, abs, etc to the point that if you really needed it you might end up in a ditch. isn't technology nice?