skibumm

Some how I lost my key and remote key opener for my 01 OBW VDC. I may have missed placed it, but most likely I lost it here on the farm the last few days in the fields. Any how the spare key sets off the alarm when I try and open the drivers door with it. Is there any way I can disable the alarm till I get another remote opener? do I also need another master Key? thanks brad

Does anyone have the templates to install the rear hatch spoiler for an 01-04 Outback Wagon? I purchased this spoiler off of Ebay for my 01 VDC and it didn't have the templates in the hardware package. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190325547489) I contacted the seller and he assumed they were in the hardware pkg. he sent. Wonder if I can get this from a dealer without much trouble. Brad

I would have loved to put Bilstein shocks on the VDC but they don't make them for the 01 Outbacks. They do make them for the Legacy but the price was astronomical for a pair, and I kinda doubt they would be the right fit for an OBW. Does any one know why H6 Outbacks and H4 Outbacks used the same shocks? I would think the H6 would be more weight on the front suspension requiring a beefier shock. Is the H6 and H4 engines about the same weight? Will take you advice and put another coat of paint on them, since i will be driving in winter allot with this car. I put a set of Kyb's on my 97 obw, haven't check to see how the paint was holding up on it.

Anyone ever use this company? http://www.performancepeddler.com. Im was looking for a set of front KYB Shocks for my 01 OBW VDC. They seem to have the best prices at 84.47 each with free shipping and if you log in with the ebay code of "ebay4p" you get another 10 percent off of orders over $150. Im going to give them a try.....Brad

Your a new Conklin dealer? or one that is being persuaded to become one? Their products are second to none, but their network marketing practices are a joke. Been a dealer for a long time, best product they have for Subies is their radiator stop leak for phase II 2.5 motor head gasket problems. Its a stop leak product that stays suspended in the antifreeze till there is a leak and then seals it until you flush the cooling system, since its a temporary seal and not a permanent one, most NASCAR teams use it. Their 15,000 mile molly motor oils would be good for a subie engine too, planning on putting in my new to me 01 H6 VDC OBW I just got.

yes, the lights are yellow and faded and the light on the passenger side has a small hole in it, so I'm going to replace both. Just looking for a good replacement lights. I noticed driving home last night that they don't project light very far to the sides of the car.

The Driving lights on my 01 H6 VDC OBW seem to be a joke, compared to the ones on my 97 OBW. Does anyone have a suggestion on aftermarket upgraded lights?

I took the vacuum hose off with the check valve and sprayed carb cleaner in it from both ends. I let it dry good and put it back on, WOW!! what a difference in brake pedal feel! Definitely found the problem. Thanks for the advice, it saved me time and money!.......

After looking for a 2nd gen H4 outback for awhile, I came to the conclusion that most people wont get rid of their Outback till the Head Gaskets go. So they trade them in, the dealer sends them to an auto auction and they end up for sale on a used car lot and/or Ebay. I ended up purchasing a nice 2001 112,000 mile H6 VDC two weeks ago, so far so good. The car has allot more power, not neck breaking, but enough that its a nice improvement over the H4 motor. Besides what others have mentioned as potential problems, I have read where the front brake rotors tend to warp, most likely do to the heavier engine. I also talked a mechanic at the local Subaru dealer, he said he has only done one HG job on a H6 ever, that is compared to doing 2-3 H4 HG jobs a week! yikes!.....

Strange, I got in the car this morning, pumped the pedal about ten times, fired up the engine and drove off, everything seems to be back to normal. No more hard pedal feel...........

I cleaned and greased the caliper slides about 6 months ago. The car just feels like it has no power assist at all.

Freezing during the day is not a problem this time of year, but I had thought maybe the hose to the booster might be clogged. If I get in the car and press the brake pedal it goes down about 3/4 of the way. I can pump the pedal a couple of times and it will go down about 1/4 of travel. Once I pump up the pedal and turn on the engine, the pedal goes back down 3/4's travel. The best way to describe the lack of braking is, after I turn on a cold engine and its still on high idle, putting the car in R or D, I can barely muster enough brake to hold the car from moving.

My 97 Outback brakes suck big time. Rotors and pads all look good, but I lack braking power. I bled the brakes awhile back and it helped for awhile, but I left the car sit 2 weeks in Morgantown WV, and went skiing with a bud to Vermont. When I picked the car up on Sunday the pedal feels hard and you really have to push to get it to stop. I believe the problem is the power booster, and the only ones I see at a decent price is Cardone rebuilt ones on Ebay. Are there others options out there for power boosters? could there be another problem to the brakes to consider? Thanks Brad

Thats what I am hoping, flying down Monday 2/23 to pick it up and bring back to OH.

I ran a Carfax on it, states 2 owners, and only title registrations and emissions testings. Does not show any maintenance work or recall work by Subaru or dealers. My sister-in-law called and said everything looked clean underneath the engine bay. Started right up and no engine slap, only thing she commented on was you had to have the clutch to the floor before it would start. I suspect that would be normal? NO Rust and only a few scratches were found on the outside.

I'm looking at buying this 2000 Outback out of Florida for $4500, my sister-in-law, who is in Fl, is going today to take a look at it for me before I make the trip down to see it for myself. The car has 125K, but looks to be like new from the photos. This car was on ebay and the seller had no neg rating and a 350 positive rating. What are things to look out for in this Model year car? Its a 5 speed. Am I right that the HG issue on this car is similar to the ones on my 97 OBW, with the exception that its an external water leak, as opposed to an internal exhaust gas leak? TIA Brad

I added a pint of additive to the fluid change. I will give it a couple thousand miles to see what happens then I might add 4-5 quarts of Synthetic fluid...

The AT on my Outback seems to operate normal except for a noticeable vibration when the car is in Drive and say you come off an interstate highway exit to a complete stop. If I pop it into Neutral then back to Drive it feels normal. Is this a sign of a problem or just they way Subaru AT's are?, BTW I changed the AT fluid to see if it helped, It help some but the vibration is still noticeable, just not as bad as before the fluid change.

Anyone know the paint code for Subaru Silver metallic wheels, like the ones on my 97 Outback or Legacy GT wheels. Thanks.

I just went though the same thing on a 97 OBW I bought. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85831 The problem I heard about doing the HG on the 2.5 is some will last a long time or others will last maybe 30k and need redone again. Look like this is the case for yours. I put a 2.2 from a 95 in mine, but I think you will need the Y pipe from a 95 as I think yours has a single port exhaust, were the 95 has dual port heads. One thing I did when I bought my 2.2 engine through car-parts.com was to ask for the VIN number of the car it was out of, then I ran a Car Fax on it, I was lucky enough to find a 2.2 that had a complete service history and had just had the 90K service work done on it 800 miles before it was wrecked, which meant it had a new timing belt. So far so good for the new engine and the only seals I put in was the rear main and oil separator plate. $400.00 here for mine.

It's the back Catalytic Converter section, it broke at the front weld seam, I'm going to try and have it welded in the morning. After getting it off the car, I realized were my exhaust leak had been coming from, as it looks like it had already been cracked at the weld, only a small portion of the seam looks like it was a new break. I'm waiting on another member to email me about his pipe for sale, I will get back to you if I'm in need of yours...thanks tho.....

I ran over a tree stump!, busted the back cat pipe. Anyone have a used one laying around or know of a good source for a new one?

Just installed new struts on the Outback, discovered I had one bad ball joint due to a cut boot cover. I'm not familiar with who makes OEM parts for Subaru's, so from the link below which one should I order? Also, how hard is it to replace the ball joints? I have to take the car to get aligned anyhow, should I just let the shop change it?, Thanks http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1270022,parttype,10070,a,Ad%20Code%20FRc1270011k1291248,EPIsubcategory%5B159%5D,Lower%2BBall%2BJoint,partGroup,27

Do a Goggle search on Wurth Clear Lacquer, many places have it for about $12.00 a can. It's a top coat for their Wurth German silver wheel paint. One can goes a long way as I have done 5 Bmw wheels with it and its still about half full. Make sure you get the lens as clean as you can before spraying them, I cleaned mine with detergent solution and very fine steel wool, then used a prep solvent on the lenses right before I sprayed them. I just used Oops multi purpose cleaner for the solvent. Not sure it makes the night vision allot better, but sure does make the car look allot nicer looking.

I used Wurth clearcoat on my dingy yellow lenses. I thought it would be worth a try before spending huge money on new lenses. Attachment photo shows the right side with the clearcoat applied, left side without treatment.