Bishop

Well, I'm sure that there is more than one way to run an engine, and we have all obviously had success with our own combinations, but in my experience running synthetic helps to clear up the lifter clatter. I've put 2 used EA82T motors in different cars over the years, and they both came with the lifter clatter. Also, my original subaru (an 86 turbo wagon) developed lifter clatter at about 80k and that is when I started trying to find out how to eliminate the problem. I asked mechanics around and most of them recommended either rislone, or synthetic. I tried one, then the other, but in the end only the combo of the two cleared it up. Of course the 86 Turbo was notorious for low oil pressure, and Subaru even made an increased flow impeller for the oil pump (I wish I could remember that part number:mad: ) that cost me about $35 sometime in 1996. But for about 2 years in the meantime, I found that running high viscosity 5w-50 Syntech with Rislone kept the engine quiet even with oil pressure below 10 pounds (engine at idle). I also noticed that the engine ran cooler in the summer, and generaly used LESS oil than when I was running Valvoline. The car ran to 180k with no problems, no leaks, and hardly any oil usage when the top radiator hose blew and put an end to her So, I have to say that my method works too, even if others work equaly well:D

Man, you guys dissapoint me. You should all be running synthetic oil. . .AND an additive, especially in the cold. I totally agree on the MMO, but Rislone is a good one to. Thats the ONLY way to prevent the lifters from clattering in a motor with some wear on it. I've found it doesn't hurt to run 5w-30 or even 5w-40 in the winter. And don't forget to get an oil filter that ISN'T a Fram. They tend to disintigrate in synthetic oil.

True. I have not heard of piston slap in subarus before. The lifters are probably the issue, especialy if it is persistant. If thats the case your best bet is to flush the oil a couple times and run an addative. I recomend Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone. Good luck!

Drove for weeks with a broken clutch cable on an '84 wagon. The hard part is getting going from a complete stop. I always tried to park on a hill, and did rolling stops at all the signs Signals are another story

Might be piston slap. Does the "diesel engine" noise stop after it warms up?

In my 86, with no BOV, no IC, running 91 octane, and with mostly stock exhaust parts, I could only run 12psi of boost before detonation at between 15 and 20 degrees BTDC. You could cut back the timing, but you loose power throught the band. I am hoping to add a BOV and replace most of the exhaust parts and bump it up to around 14psi.

Great post! I am reading all of this very carefully because I am in the process of rebuilding my 86 turbo wagon. Awsome stuff on the SPD WRX page too. Keep it up!

If the weber is on your EA81, then I dont see a problem with just eliminating the stock fuel filter, return line, and anything else in your way and replacing it with an in-line filter. Go for it and let us know the results (pics would be cool too)

Turning is deffinitly required on your car, and it takes some force. You should turn the piston clockwise and the easiest way to do it is to get a sprinkler key and grind the ends flat so they grip on the notches on the piston face. I've probably had to make as many as 15 rotations when the pad had been ground almost all the way down. I wasnt aware of the piston having to line up with anything on the brake pad or caliper. I've always just screwed it in until the caliper fit back over it with the new pads in place.

On my 82 EA81 the third line on the fuel filter (vapor seperator I guess) goes back to the gas tank, but its a CA car and may be different than some others. What are the symptoms as of right now? I sounds like you said it ran for a minute, kind of chugging, then died. This might sound stupid, but have you made sure that the plug wires are connected to the distributer right? The firing order should be 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 If you accidentaly switch the 2 - 3 plug wires on the disty, then it will run on 2 cylinders, but not drive. Dont ask me how I know, its embarrasing Let us know what you turn up and good luck

The third line is a return to the gas tank. What does the engine sound like if you turn it over while dumping gas directly into the throttle body? If it seems to be running OK using that method then your problem is somewhere in the feul line between the tank and the carb. Keep us posted

I live at just under 1500 feet and I regularly drive to the Sierra Nevadas where I hit 9000 feet. I can tell you right now that performance goes down in a big way over 8000 feet and you'll need to advance your timing as much as possible because the thinner air does not compress as high. A turbo does help, but without increasing the boost accordingly you wont get the same performance you would at lower altitudes. Also, you should be able to run the "cheap" gas in most of our cars at that elevation because of the lower compression. You should always run the lowest octane you can that doesnt cause detonation.

Im here in good old San Bernardino. The armpit of the Inland Empire

Wow, I havent posted in a while. I love the new site! Thought I'd give everyone way down here a heads up if they're still around. I sold my 85 GL-10 after the AC blew up. Couldn't stand the summer heat without it. :boohoo: Still got the 86 GL-10 turbo wagon, but its been sitting a while till I have the time and money to throw a new set of heads on her. Same story for the 82 GL hatch, although I did finally finish the roll cage (sweet!). If anyone is still out this way, drop a post in this thread. Later Bishop