langosta39

I had a similar problem, but it wasn't terrible, just always there and slightly annoying. My rotors weren't warped (no extra shaking during braking) but after I replaced them the wiggle went away...I guess the years of rusting unbalanced them or something. Andy

Oh man its about time!!!! I've been fighting with this problem, too. Did it also cure the bucking problem when you let off/step down while driving in lower gears? Any chance you have the TSB number? THANKS!!!!1 Andy

Don't know about the wheels, but mark@waukegantire.com quoted me 480 shipped for Hak 2's while my local Tire Factory wanted 700! The RSIs I don't know about.

The Green Diamonds are retreads aren't they? I suppose they remark the sidewalls so the tires all look the same. Anyway, that wasn't the point. Has anyone ever used these tires, or seen a comparison between these tires and studded snow tires like the Hakka 2's?

Did you stud your Hakka 2's?

Anybody know if Nokian Hakki 4's are available anywhere in the US? I've seen them at Nokian.com but haven't found them at any online tire dealers, just the 2's.

Lawson, Just to clarify the process of making the cables: Strip ends of wire, paint leads with paste flux, insert into ring connectors, crimp connectors, then solder leads to connectors (and the flux will draw the solder into the insulation and connector). If I use rosin core solder will it work with the paste flux? I'm going to use military style battery terminal clamps so I know I have a good connection. As for the sanding of the ground points for a better ground, do you put anything on it like dielectric grease to prevent corosion there?

Wow, that's quite the thing. They don't tell you how much wire you get with it, but for $20 including shipping it might be a good deal just based on the copper. Of course it would look horribly out of place in my completly stock engine bay.

Which ones do you run on your SUS?

Ok, I'm looking at snow tires for the '05. I run Bridgestone Winterfire Studs on the '95 for 4 years and have had a great experience, but Bridgestone only makes the Blizzaks now, it seems. I hear the Blizzack WS-50s are great tires in snow but can be dangerous in emergency manuvers in dry conditions. I've been looking at the new studless Blizzack REVO 1, it tests better than the WS-50s in snow/ice but I haven't found any all around tests. Anyone have any info on these? The next tire I'm eyeing is a studded tire, the Nokian Hakki 2, which looks like it would totally rip but I can't find any tests. Basically I want the tire that does everything perfectly, but they don't make that, but SOMEWHERE there must be a good all-condition test of current stud/studless snow tires. Anyone care to point me in the right direction, offer opinions, or give me some insight into new-technology snow tires?

I think I need to do the same, with a new battery and alternator I still have dimming light problems, and since one of my battery cables is getting ragged I probably will. What exactly is the process of "tinning"?

Sweet lifted wagon in the background too!

Give us a diesel electric hybrid and I would buy one in a second. Diesel gets great highway mileage and electric gets great city mileage. It seems so common sense to me.

Can you help me identify the PCV value? What does the PCV value look like, where should the hoses be coming from, the valve cover right? Andy

Ive read many times, and was told by the dealer, that those symptoms are cured by a fluid flush and a friction modifier, but thanks for in the input.

I also used a small line right by the throttle body. I found I had to rev the motor just slightly to get it to suck well but it worked just fine. I put the other half of the can in the oil and I put a full can in the gas tank. I still have intermittent pinging problems with 87 octane in the summer heat (with 126000mi) but now the car idles about 250-300rpm lower and very smooth. I'm considering another treatment to cure the pinging, what do you guys think? Andy

I have hand calculated my fuel mileage for over 100,000 miles and I have always found it to be reliable. While I don't get terribly scientific and fill up with the same nozzle at the same time of day with the same weather conditions I feel that I am fairly accurate. I usually use the same gas station and I never top off, and I get consistent mpg figures from my normal drive so that says something. I do not know how often the digital ECU samples throttle position and how it filters the data so I can't make any assumptions about its margin of error, but since it is only about 5-7% off I would say that the engineers did a decent job while still hitting their target deadline and cost. Andy

My 95 Legacy does this if I have the gear selector in "3", but it has never done it in "D". Even then it only seems to do it when accelerating brisky in 2nd and then pulling off the throttle. Its like the car wants to double shift because of no load but then realizes its supposed to be in 3rd instead of 4th. Its done it for 10,000s of miles and never a problem, but I do know that it needs a fluid flush (chattering when turning hard in 1st gear). Andy

Those figures I quoted are calculated. I've found that my trip computer is optimisitc by about 1.5-2.0 mpgs depending on the type of driving I'm doing. If it gets even a little better in the next few thousand miles I'll be very happy. My '95 Legacy with the 2.2L gets about the same as is. Andy

How many miles do you have on your Outback? I recently bought a 2005 and have noticed mileage and performance to be noticably greater than 1300 miles ago. I would have chosen a turbo, but this is the wifes car, and I have been pleased with the performance. I have a 5spd and on the freeway the motor is spinning at 3500rpm, so no, it will not hurt it to rev it up. Around town I never let rpms go below 2K so there is always plenty of power on tap. I don't drive much in town, but I'm getting 28mpg on the freeway and 30mpg on two lanes at 60mph. I've noticed there isn't much reason to exceed 4500rpm unless you really need to go fast, it just hurts the mileage. The torque in the mid-rpms is awesome. If you get used to the car and find its sweet spots I think you will be happy. andy

If its an STI I'm going to cry. andy

The bulb for the shifter is a Sylvania 194, are these the ones behind the gague cluster? andy

HVAC was not hard, I used a step-by-step I found here or on NASIOC. I used the method that involves removing the heater cable in the passenger footwell and the rest was easy. I got the bulbs from the dealer so I didn't have to deal with the little green booties, I just twisted the old ones out and then put the new ones in. Cruise light is the big thing I need to know. I know where the button is with out a light, but its just annoying : ) Somebody with a early 90's Leg said just pry the switches, but that makes me nervous. Replacing my dash lights so they are as bright as my shifter would be nice, too, and I know somebody must have done that before. andy

2 Questions: How do I replace the bulb for illumination behind my Cruise button (not the orange "on" light, but the backlighting)? What types of bulbs are used to light up the dash, like behind the speedo and tach? I just replaced my auto shifter backlight and now its way brighter than the dash so if the dash uses the same bulbs I can upgrade all of them. I just did the HVAC backlights and they were these tiny green things, the shifter was a standard bulb. I guess the next question is how to replace dash bulbs... Does anyone else have this much trouble with interior lighting at 130K miles? : ) andy