Caboobaroo

the radius rods are the rods going from the control arms back to where the tranny crossmember mounts to. You have to swap those plates that they mount to because of fitment issues like you found out dealing with the crossmembers. It should be only like 3 bolts a side for those.

replace the TO bearing. If it starts seizing up, it'll put more load on the engine with the clutch in and make the engine want to die. Kinda like trying to take off from a stoplight without giving it any gas but not quite as bad.

If someone wants to come up here and help me get my coupe running, I'll covert it to 4wd on a weekend and come down but if not, well I'll be right on up here like usual:rolleyes:

Until you get your intercooler in there, I'd hold off on the boost controller and the BOV. Thats kind of a packaged deal and doing it all together at the same time, you'll benefit from it then doing it in stages. So install the IC, with the BOV, then after you get that done, install your MBC. Since our cars stock don't have an IC, then stock boost is all I would run. If you run more boost with no IC, it'll be hotter then stock, which will more then likely give you a ping or predetonation at higher RPMS.

Has he been called? If not, I'll give him a ring....

what if you made a custom pitch stopper. I've seen guys make adjustable ones and such so why not try and fab something up? I have a couple ideas but I need to draw them out and figure out how to work them...

Oh boy... Kid you need to take a rest. I've been building engines for more then half your lifetime. I've actually met GD in person and he is one of the most knowledgable Subaru people on this board. So.... I've seen quite a few of your posts that have had no regard to the topic which has been discussed but hey, what do I know right? I've only owned more Subarus then years you've been alive....

ok time for more info. I haven't checked the temp sensor but I did figure out that the fuel pump runs when cranking, yay go me. Now I'm going to go rotate the disty, check my timing for the millionth time and see what comes of it. I'm also going to double check the fuel injector and to make sure I'm getting fuel into the TB, not just a trickle. Then, if none of that works, then I'll be going after the temp sensor.

I knew it was something like that but I wasn't entirely sure:-p

yeah I should have mentioned that they normally come with new studs;) Don't worry, I did the same thing when I got a new waterpump for my RX. Doesn't hurt to have spares though:grin:

ok I missed that in your previous post. Anyways, you're best option is to get an EA82 2 piece driveline modified for the 5-speed. I've heard and seen guys get custom drivelines made that were a single piece but thats a bit of change to throw down...

IIRC, the EA82 waterpumps that have 4 bolts that hold the pulley to the waterpump and another 4 studs that are permenant on the pulley that hold the clutch fan on, are the 105mm. The waterpumps that have studs in the pump that the pulley "floats" on and the clutch fan goes onto, is the 110mm... or I have them backwards...

This sounds very logical to me since the car just made a 18 hour trip a month and a half ago and the guy I bought it from claims it died with no indication of something being wrong. In my RSM, it mentions the temp sensor as being an option for not wanting to start but it also said something about in colder temps... hmmm I'll have to check this!

Well it ran for a week after I bought it. I drove it maybe a mile but the car has been so abused by the previous owner that the brakes were shot and so was the exhaust. The front pump in the tranny ended up seizing over night from sitting. Went to start it up the following day and nothing but a click and the engine doesn't turn over at all. I've had the car now for 4 years so thats how long its basically been not running:rolleyes:

No, automatic EA82 driveshafts have a shorter section between the carrier bearing and the tranny so no go. Are you putting a d/r 5-speed into an EA81 car or are you thinking about using an EA81 d/r driveshaft in an EA82 car? The EA81 driveshafts are way different as far as lengths go.

ok ok ok. No Harbor Freight here which sucks. Closes one is an hour away and no way am I gonna ride there on my mountain bike in 15 degree weather. I'll see if I can't borrow a compression tester from someone at work or buy one from Mac since I already owe him a heap of money (damn tools). I'll pour some gas down the TB but it doesn't really seem to be the case. When the green diagnosic connectors are together, I AM getting fuel into the TB and down it. I have had someone check that while I cranked it.

Road? Whats a road? I dunno what that is... I know what a sidewalk is though:banana:

There is a clicking coming from the TB area so I believe that would probably be the injector clicking?I also hear the fuel pump relay inside the car click when the grren connectors are connected... Also, talked with Hondasucks a bit over the phone. He said I should try and disconnect the MAF sensor because if its giving the ECU a bad figure, it would cause it not to start as well. What about a bad ECU as well?

nope, you blew the freeze plugs in one of the heads is my bet...

yup basically, Still no start and I swapped the distys around with a known good disty straight from my RX. Got good spark but still just cranks. Timing is still on, checked it after I swapped distys around but still no go. I have good spark at the coil and at the plugs, so next, I'll check my fuel again. Pump still doesn't want to run unless the green connectors are connected. Even then, she still doesn't want to fire up. Maybe I'll have to check compression but it doesn't seem like a viable solution for it just suddenly dying on the P.O. I also have my FSM out and am going to start checking things that it lists in the book for no starting, no initial combustion engines.

And it sat in my shop for a couple months;) I wanted to get a couple pics of it with my EA82 coupes ('87 GL and '89 RX) but I didn't have any chances too:-\

+1:headbang:

well I got like 3 good EA82 FI distys from '87-94 SO, I'm going to swap them out tomorrow and see what happens. Then I gotta take it down to the courthouse and get the vin inspected so I can get it registered..... But if its a disty...

Tried putting a little bit of starting fluid down the TB but still nothing. I haven't checked to see if I have spark at the plugs yet and since this car just randomly died on the guy, I'm going to shoot for the optical pickup in the disty. This car just made a 18 hour trip from Oregon to Wyoming maybe a month and a half ago so I don't know why compression would just all of a sudden give out without and signs or warnings. Now next question, I have a disty from a '91 SPFI Loyale in my shop. However, the 4-pin connector has been chopped off of it. Also, I have a couple 4-pin turbo distys as well which are optical instead of mechanical. Would it be easier to take the two SPFI distys and make a good one or would one of the turbo distys, say from my '89 RX, work?

ok, TB is getting fuel definatly. I pulled off the intake boot and looked into the TB after cranking. Smells like fuel and has fuel vapors coming from it. I also tried doing the pinch trick on the fuel return from the FPR. So now, what next? Swap the disty?