twilightprotege

was a short. one of the wires for the relay was crimped under the ecu causing a ground-short. all good now. thanks

the lights are still on with the headlight switch completely removed drl - never in australia! lol. that and the lights are always on, even with the ignition off. i'm guessing it is something short related. i hate chasing shorts.

wondering if anyone has any ideas... my low beams in my 87 RX turbo are currently always on. happened a little while ago when i went over a big bump. and no, my car doesnt even have the "virgin switch" so it's not that. here's the facts so far: i have hid bulbs (H4 lows only) run via relay, but they've worked fine for ages. disconnected the headlight switch completely - lights still on. pulled the fuse, lights off. pulled the relay, lights off - but on that one, the relay are definately working fine - you can here them clicking on and off when i connect them and disconnect them - when the relays have been on for a while, they are hot, but i'm sure that's normal so i'm sure i've got a stray short somewhere along the way. has anyone had this happen before? where did you find the solution??? or is there something i'm overlooking?

yeah that's not right. it's a mechanical dizzy (ie vacuum advance) and advancing the timing is not what's required when you increase the compression ratio. stock 3 plug turbo is 20 degrees BTDC. with more compression, the timing needs to be more retarded (like 10 degrees BTDC)

can someone, preferably with experience, let me know what timing i should set my engine to? it's an MPFI (so 9.7:1 comp ratio) with the stock turbo. also have a legacy waic. it's a 3 plug ecu, so vacuum advance. i know the stock engine requires 20 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line plugged, and i assume that's on 89 fuel. i'm running 91 fuel. thoughts? suggestions?

something from oz 87 RX turbo 4" lift all round 27x8.5x14 BFG's high compression EA82T

tops. well then spend money on the suspension and tires. from simple street tires to semi slicks, a friend of mine dropped 2 seconds per lap off a 63 second lap time at a track near me. through practice, that time dropped another 1.5 seconds. that's a huge drop through something pretty simple really - and no increase in power.

dont look for more power, look for a better power to weight ratio - remove dead weight in the car. get better tires and suspension. if you need more power, cams are an easy solution for a turbo engine. you'll probably end up making more power at lower boost. increase the boost back up and it's a double win. and then the final solution - practice.

the slots on the dizzy so it can turn around further? that's a good idea!

i'm sure i'm not moving it by more than 2 teeth - that's what is worrying me.

strange question, but is the cam timing - the gearing at the back of the 2-4 cam that connects to the dizzy - different between NA and turbo cams? different between 3 plug and 4 plug ecu models??? the reason i ask is because i have just done a swap. I used to have a 3 plug turbo engine, and now i have a 4 plug NA engine with the 3 plug turbo and bits on it. obviously the turbo engine requires timing of 20 degrees BTDC with the vacuum line disconnected and the NA engine requires 8 degrees BTDC. if i put the dizzy (3 plug dizzy) in, on 1 cog i cant get any more timing than about 14 degrees BTDC, if i then move the dizzy 1 cog, i cant get any less than about 22 degrees BTDC - basically i cant get in between. i thought maybe the gearing on the cam was different between NA and turbo cams. any thoughts??? obviously i'd prefer to keep the NA cams to get a little more poke...

follow this and enjoy - a very good step by step how to http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497

for sure, if you're 4wd'ing i'd say keep the heavy flywheel as it helps keep the engine spinning. even in a drag racing situation, a heavy flywheel is usually better. but in terms of "losing torque" that's all rubbish

what is it with people and lightened flywheels thinking they'll loose torque? all you are loosing is momentum, which isnt a bad thing. you GAIN torque at the wheels (where it matters) when you lighten the flywheel as less of the engine's power goes into turning the flywheel around and allows it to go to the wheels where you want it. the engine will make no more or less power and thus torque no matter what you do after the engine.

but getting a turbo ecu in oz might be a little easier said than done

true, just thought someone might have given it a go to see if it works. so still no one knows of anyone that might have tried this??

maybe. i just thought that since the NA ecu has the knock sensor output there ready to go it could be just a case of hook it up and go. a knock sensor isnt that complicated really - it's just a microphone. the ecu sees the voltage at the particular rpm and knows that it means knock, and thus backing the timing off until the voltage spike from the knock goes away. once it's gone, it slowly starts adding back in timing to go back to it's original timing

yeah just sounds like a pretty simple mod to get more out of the NA engine and allow you to get the full benefit out of higher octane fuel. just thought someone would have given it a go and see if it works

no one has tried this???

can you add a knock sensor from a turbo model to an NA MPFI 4 plugger (MAF) so you can push the timing further forward and let the knock sensor take the timing back as required?

anyone?

the block i have is an MPFI block, so it already has the knock sensor spot and the breather pipe already, so no problems there. so what are the thoughts on a rising rate fuel pressure reg? like a malpassi 1.7:1 rate fpr? that'll help keep things cool with the help of fuel. was going to keep the boost stock 99% of the time. i have a ebc, but rarely turn it on. only ups the boost a few psi anyway. and what about the NA 4 plug ecu? is that best or stick with the 3 plug turbo ecu?

well this is my first post - i'm from Brisbane, Australia, and a regular on the ausubaru forums. I've got a 87 RX and eventually i'll be EJ20 turbo'ing the car, but at the moment money is tight and i have a few things at my disposal... my EA82T (3 plug) has a leaky head, but i have a rather good EA82 MPFI (4 plug) that just happens to have gen3 turbo heads on it, great compression and no exhaust gas in the coolant. so from what i can gather, it is possible to turbo the NA MPFI with varying degrees of success. i'm not after an engine that'll last 200000 miles, but something that'll be a bit more powerful for offroading, and more reliable than my engine that drinks coolant for a living. so i'm trying to work out the best options for doing this. i should mention that my car has a waic as well. is it best to use the 4 plug NA ecu? obviously the MAF is better than the flapper, but what about it not having a knock sensor? can a knock sensor be "added" to the 4 plugger and the ecu starts to use it? what do guys set their timing to as well? i assume also that a rrfpr and using the turbo injectors is also the safest option? (i have a 255LPH walbro fuel pump, so that's no problem) i'll probably think of more questions and ideas, but what else should i know?