falling

I have heard of that being done before. Saw that a few times on my search for my problem

Now I just have to find one cheap and hopefully get it changed out without any more problems. It turned out to be a little more than Hocrest's estimate. It was more like 220 bucks for a used spindle, plus about another 60 bucks for new tools, Big socket for the end nut on the CV shart, and a breaker bar to get it off, and a new ratchet and a deep 19mm socket for some of the other bolts And a Hayes manual so I have an idea what I am doing. Since they were off, I did the front brake pads and will fix the alternator that is going south too. About 500 bucks or so total for the parts and tools and about 4 hours of working time. And only one bandaid. Now an alignment to finish it all off and I am back on the road. Wonder if the bearings in the replacment spindle will hold out, keeping my fingers crossed

The top of the old ball joint is still in the knuckle, but the outer part of the knuckle, where the pinch bolt goes through, broke off when I took out the pinch bolt. As I was pulling out the pinch bolt, the ear that the bolt goes through came off in my hand too. so now there is no way to tighten the top of the ball joint to keep it in the car. I am starting to wish I had taken it to my local garage and then it would be their problem

Subaru never came out with a 2 piece ball joint hold in assembly, The pinch bolt, in the steering knuckle/hub assembly right? So when I take out the pinch bolt from the ball joint, the ear it passes through should not come apart in two pieces? I hate it when that happens, Any one know a a good source for a new/good used, left side steering knuckle/hub for a 92 legacy wagon? And would it be worth repairing, or should I just call the Kidney car line and make another donation?

I liked the Rally and the constallation myself.

I am on my 4th subaru now, love them all. #4 is at 220,000 now, original motor and still running strong

My 92 Legacy is from Ontario, where it is plainly evident they use lots of salt because it is warm enough to work. The rust is a significant factor in how long I will keep this one, but I plan on at least 2 years before I can justify a change. If I can keep the rust in check for the time being I will be happy.

A very good idea, I hate spending money I don't have, but the O2 sensor I would agree with since I have noticed a decrease in mileage and a few other symptoms that have been reported in previous posts too. But I will clear the codes this evening before I go to booking any appoointments at the shop. Thanks for the reminder.

My 92 Legacy LS downloaded the following codes 13 and 32. I understand from the code chart they coincide with a cam angle sensor and the O2 sensor inoperative. I am thinking the O2 sensor would be the first one to fix since it may save me fuel in the long run. Are they fixable at home without significant tool collections? or are they best left to mecanical type people? Comments and suggestions appreciated as always.

OK I get a 13 and 32 code from the blinking lights. Therefore I have received a cam angle sensor code and an O2 sensor code. Now to figure out what to do with them.

Was away on a road trip for the past week and the darn light never made an appearance. over 2000 Km of travel. But I now need a blue leather shifter handle and park brake handle because of a stressed out labrador pup's need to chew on things. I will look at the codes this afternoon if I can get that to work

Ah HA! Found it myself. I am not so dumb after all! (Afterall, I do own a Subaru). Thanks to Josh for posting it at http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html (Specific page)

My 92 Legacy LS has started to occasionally flash the Check Engine light. It will come on at random times for about 30 sec. then go out. I know there is a way and place to check the flashing light codes, But I havn't found it yet. Can I get a bettter discription of it's location, or a link to the info please. Thanks.

Looks like a winner idea, just add an A/C Inverter to the vehicle to plug it in, and away you go. And real good models will give you 3 levels of boost and the added benefit of preventing icing in the cold season too.

Excellent Information, Thanks Dave.

I did pull the fuse from the block, thought that would fix it, but it didn't. But I have now utilized the small screwdriver and disconnected the switch from the wiring harness. I put the switch back in to the original hole, without being conected, just so it looks pretty.

Ok small screwdriver it is, was wondering if it would be that simple. Thanks !

Tires were all replaced last year by the previous owner. was ne of the first things I looked at when I bought the car.

It is very annoying. The previous owner had a piece of masking tape stuck over it. I would rather figure out how to get the switch out and pull the wire to it instead.

My 92 Legacy came equipped with the ride height controls. but it has been converted to regular suspension by the previous owner. My question is how do I get the ride height light to stay off? It now occcasionally comes on and will flash until I turn off the car. I have pulled the fuse for the ride height out of the fuse block, but that didn't get it. Any suggestions? Thanks again.

Mine is quite violent as well when driving it hard, but havn't tried it out in the rain or slipperys yet. I have been talking to the local subaru techs and I put a fuse in to disable the AWD to FWD only. The wiggle is almost totally gone, just a little pull now on acceleration and decelleration. They are of the opinion it is the clutches in the transfer case that are binding. Now just a matter of time and money to fix it. Any one else have any opinions or ideas?

Just picked up a '92 Legacy LS wagon (#5 sooby for me) and it has a "wiggle" when accelerating and cornering. It feels like it shifts to the left on acceleration and to the right hen you come off the throttle. Also a catching or binding feeling when cornering hard. I have heard it could be the clutches in the AWD system. If so, any repairs that woin't cost a ton of money? or suggestions to relieve the binding? Tks in advance for your help.