Deener

Are they the cam carrier O-rings? And is this the part number? 13089AA010

Hey, thanks a bunch grossgary! I alread did a little homework and the FelPro-Permatorque gaskets are the ones I picked up. I also already downloaded the FSM too. This is just my first time pulling the heads off so I want to be 100% sure of everything and be prepared ahead of time...and I trust you guys, you've kept me rolling for a long time. I did the timing belts before so I know I can do it again, I just wasn't sure if I had to or not. Thanks again for everything! Dean

Sweet thanks. Ok, well I will just take off the belts and replace them while I am at it then. Actually that raises another question... After I take the belts off and redo the hg's- when I reassemble everything will I have to reset the timing or should the cam slap right back on and into place without any fuss? Dean

I am tearing apart an EA82 (unfortunately WITH AC) in hopes to replace the head gaskets and I have a question about the process. I have decided to do it with the engine in the car. (Previous tip from GD was to use a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the valve covers...good call!!) So far I have the alt, AC, pcv hoses, intake, and valve covers off. Intake gaskets are perfect (still replacing them nonetheless) so I am convinced the HG's are toast (mayo in the dipstick and oil filler, unexplained coolant loss). Well I have been staring at the cam towers and I am not too sure about myself here... Do I have to get a special cam sprocket wrench and take off the cam sprockets or do I just have to remove the timing belts to get the cam carriers off before I get at the heads...? Dean

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I think thats a fuel damper. It is supposed to smooth out pulses during fuel delivery. Do a search here for fuel damper. I don't know what the wire does, I assume it is for the IAC but maybe someone else that knows can chime in...?

Below is the link for the EA82 service manual, it may help: http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm

Your screwdriver is right next to the Idle Air Control valve. Hard to tell but it looks like your screwdriver is pointing to it's wire. Not sure if that would cause your issue or not. Sounds like your fuel pump is working though...

NGK's are really good plugs but they aren't a necessity - you just need spark, fuel and air. If you aren't getting any of those elements then combustion won't happen. Double check your work. Did you bump something? Forget to put something back on? I forget to reconnect things almost every time. Have you tried flooring it while cranking? If you do, you should be able to smell fuel. Check Fuses, fusible links (in the little black box, attached to the coolant expansion tank). I am pretty sure that I hear my fuel pump cycle in the key position just before ignition... Happy to help suggest but GD is definitely one to listen to here. He has saved my rump so many times...

- Start the car and grab a can of carb cleaner and spray it directly on all of those vaccum lines where they breach/meet/join anything. If there's a leak in the point where you are spraying, you will notice a significant increase in RPM's. Don't forget that the intake manifold is also a vaccum line. Spray close and direct. - If that doesn't work, check the temperature sensor. It's located right near the thermostat (my 88gl temp sensor has a light greenish 'pigtail' connector with two wires), if the sensor doesn't have any resistance value, then check the wiring to it, maybe clean up any corrosion. - Another thing to check is the Idle Air Control valve. It's right in from of the intake. it may just need to be cleaned. I am no professional but I have had similar issues with my GL and it was a combo of those three things. Also - If you are getting a Check Engine light, search around here for how to check your codes.

Does your car lock properly? Just curious because when we were younger, we'd sneak into our neighbors car (because he used to leave it open) and hot box it. I am sure that he'd wonder where the smell and the window residue came from. On a more helpful note...the interior rain-x stuff does sort of work but not if you have a heavy leak in the cab.

Check your tie rods...

Before you assume the worst... I had mine leak exactly like that - burning up and stankin once it hit the cat and it was because the oil filter seal was leaking from the top!! I learned the trick of smearing a little oil around the filter seal pretty quickly. Check the filter before you rip your engine apart... Dean

FYI another spot to check is the intake manifold...when I had a vaccum leak that I couldn't find by chasing the hoses, the breach was actually right where the intake manifold mates with the heads, but just on one side. My intake gaskets were trashed. The leak was so bad that when I was spraying carb cleaner on the top of my intake boot and hoses like that, I would get a change in rpm, so I thought it was coming from the hoses. It took me spraying directly (like an inch away) at the mating location of the head and the intake to discover the actual source. If you end up having to replace intake gaskets, the guys here will agree that the dealer gaskets are MUCH better than the aftermarket ones.

Ha ha...yeah. I used a piece of foil from a 'Big League Chew' package and two elastics from two old air fresheners that were lying around in the car. It made it all the way without issue. Sweet - another Loyale!! This one was from Arizona with 166 miles on it. Barely any rust, racks, nice exhaust, clean engine bay...etc. STOKED. Thanks a bunch...

The reason I ask is because I am about to buy another Loyale and I noticed the overflow/expansion tank cap is missing and I have to drive it about one hundred KM to get it back home. I know on my old VW, the cap was required because it was pressurized in the tank, but I get the sense that with the Loyale (1991) isn't really that much of an emergency. Does anyone know if anything else will fit on that if I can't find one for the meantime? I am thinking some thick plastic and a zip strap...? Thoughts?

When my front differential was on it's way out in my 88 GL, it made a suspicious whinning noise that didn't appear until I hit a higher RPM mark. The whine I heard was similar in (high) pitch to that of a remote control car. At the time I didn't know that the differntial fluid was supposed to be clear. Mine was black. The diff went on me in a short time after hearing the noise - maybe a few hundred KM or so. All of these folks who are helping out here on your post have helped me through a lot so as a vote of confidence - you are in good hands. Good luck! Dean

+1 on the radiator - I had the same issue on my 88 GL (EA82)

Ah - ok. I will see about getting some high end bits to try and remove the EZ out. Then some lefty's to get the bolt out. I really don't want to remove the head if I can avoid it. I will take it in as a last resort though. I am confident now that if I can get the EZ out removed that I will be able to get the bolt out. I guess I'll pick up some carbide, or diamond tips and a bunch of cutting oil. I don't mind spending the time if I end up doing a good job. My mind is already numb...

Thanks all for the replies - Hey 4x4 Brat...can you send me a link to the 'tap out' you are referring to? I can't find it. Where do you get it? I am having a hard time weeding through the internet. There is a lot of TAP OUT clothing links but I can't seem to find ANY info about a bolt extraction/steel eating compound...

Well the problem is that the bolt sheared/snapped off right at the head. The bolt is clear of the manifold. I didn't have any trouble geting the manifold off, I just foolishly snapped the bolt off when I was tightening it down after a gasket replacement. It snapped really easily and without much pressure so I suspect it was ready to give out - surprised I got it out without any trouble actually. I went to the local 'Canadian Tire' looking for reverse thread/left thread drill bits and the 'tool' that I asked had never heard of them - go figure. I may have to look elsewhere. (Lordco or Napa maybe?) I am kinda weary about drilling into the head. So you think thats all it will take is a reverse thread drill bit? I can use a punch to get a flat surface and then try again with a reverse thread bit if you think thats OK to try on the head like that... Lesson learned about the easy outs and I will now inspect ALL bolts before putting them back in...

Anyone have any good machine shops in Vancouver they can recommend? I can only imagine that my last resort is to pull the head and get someone else to do it. In an attempt to remove a snapped off intake manifold bolt, I also snapped an Easy Out/bolt extractor inside the bolt, which is stuck in side the head! Genius. I should have drilled deeper but the center punch I did on the sheared bolt head made the drill hole skew enough to send the drill bit too close to the threads, so I couldn't drill any deeper. Now I can't seem to drill the hardened steel "easy out" and I have snapped 4 drill bits trying. Anyone have any suggestions to get that stinker bolt out? I don't have a welder.

Hush777 and GD are so right. I picked up the aftermarket gaskets as well as the dealer gaskets to compare and the dealer gaskets have a metal layer in the center, the aftermarket ones are just made of rubber, and thats it. I got the manifold off, and the old gaskets were baked on fairly well. I used a mirror to see the underside of the manifold as well as sandpaper, wd-40, various flatheads and razorblades to get the remaining gaskets cleaned off properly. Oh the fun begins here... All was going oh so smoothly when I got to the last bolt (the shortest bolt, passenger side ) in my tightening sequence. It decided to snap off BEFORE I even got to torque it (???). I must have either applied to much primate force or the bolt was already weakened. Either way - I now have a broken bolt in my engine and I am looking for suggestions on how to get it extracted and how to get another bolt of the correct size? I have seen the 'easy outs' which look like they might work - has anyone had any successes with a particular tool? The bolt that snapped off is 1 3/4 inches long after snapping, which appears as though the bolt may have left a little bit of metal on the top side of the engine.

I forgot to ask...what size is that EGR pipe nut that is going to prevent me from pulling the intake off? I am going to pick up the flare wrench set on my way home I just want to make sure I get the right wrench in the set... Dean

Well it is running super smooth actually. Just pigging out on coolant and leaving no trace of where it is going except for the under side of that oil cap. I will update once I have the intake gaskets done.