Deener

Well, replacing the bypass hose and burping it has brought it back down to cool temps! Little less than half on the gauge. As far as new rads go, all the 2 core/row I could find was here: http://www.usaradiator.com/ They have the two cores that fit the Loyales...which is close enough I'd imagine.

Ok, I am crazy. The water pump is right up front. I don't have to remove the timing belt to get at the water pump. Alternator belt...maybe. Yeah a new rad sounds like the way to go. I just wasn't sure if I could get an aftermarket one or if I was forced to get an old one. By the sounds of it, the dual core ones are the way to go. Cool...literally.

Found I had a leak! It's a small leak on what I believe is the 'bypass hose' that goes from the manifold to the thermostat housing. Hopefully that helps keep er cool when it's replaced. It would only get real hot when I was pushing up hills or driving hard around town.

Sorry, yes the fan is coming on at temp. I am pretty sure that the gauge is reporting the temp correctly too.

Thanks guys. I would do the water pump but from what I can tell, that means I have to pull off the timing belt. I have never done a timing belt and I am a little afraid to try. I'll go with the rad first I suppose.

Good day folks. I am thinking about replacing my radiator. I have an 88 GL Wagon, 3 spd tranny, with on demand 4x4 SPFI. It recently started to alomst overheat, never let it hit the red though. Like it would climb to the white part of the needle, just before the red. Mostly happened when I was climbing hills or even on the freeway. The headgasket is good. My coolant is really clean and so is my oil. I have replaced the rad cap, which made a difference as well as the T-stat and gasket. I had a little leak at the gasket that I noticed so I re-seated it and it doesn't seem to leak there anymore as much, but the temp still likes to climb/creep up a bit...too close for comfort. I think it might be losing just a tiny bit still, so I need to check that first but I might want a bigger, cooler rad. Next in the chain of inexpensiveness would be the radiator. I have heard about using the Loyale rads, but does anyone know if I should go for an aftermarket one, or hit a junk yard for a particiular type? I want one that will fit with ease yet will help me stay cooler. Dean

Thank you sir! I did have a check engine light when I was starting it up in the mornings but it would go away after 5 minute of driving. I cleaned out the carb and the airflow and idle air control valve and the light went away, and I can punch it for overdrive again now!! Woo hoo!!! Thanks a bunch.

Hi everyone. I was under the hood examining an overheat issue (think it just needs a burp and a T-stat gasket since I noticed a bit of coolant around the housing) BUT I noticed a piece of something that was broken off of something else. The piece is where a hose slides onto and connects to a black plastic sensor-like thing just behind the thermostat housing on the top of the engine, passenger side, underneath the MAF, almost directly under where it says SUBARU FI. The 'hose' is small, maybe a half inch in width or so and I can trace it back to what I believe is the evaporation cannister. It's the middle hose, of three that come off the black cannister. The black cannoster is on the passenger side, near the front of the engine bay. Well, the piece that is broken is part of the sensor thing. Does anyone know what that 'sensor thing' is called? Dean

Hi NorthWet, It was on dry pavement, forward and backward. I didn't want to grind them down so I just tested it over a few yards off and on. No noise whatsoever in 2 wheel, but 4 wheel definitely growls/grinds (more of a growl I suppose). The axles have slight play when I grab them close to the diff and shake them so thats what leads me to believe it's the rear diff. Drivers side rear wheel bearing is brand new and the passenger side is tight as well when I try to move/shake the wheels when they are up...so they are seemingly good. I have also done the brake shoes and the hubs are still good too...no rub or anything. Note that it didn't growl when I first got the vehicle a year ago, but I ran 4 wheel for a good portion of the last winter (up hill passing stuck SUV's I might add), so that rear diff got some action. There is fluid in the case, I am not sure what color it is, or how full it is. When I had the front diff and tranny rebuilt, they discovered the rear diff noise because they thought it was coming from their rebuild, but the noise was just rattling up the driveshaft, again, only in 4wheel when it was on the ground. On the hoist in 4 wheel, there is no noise.

I forgot to mention that when I shook the axles on either side of the diff, there was a little bit of play. Not much but I am sure that even just a little is enough to grind the gears together inside. Hi-ho to the junkyard I go...thanks again guys. BTW - maybe I need another topic but can anyone suggest where to obtain a factory service manual? I do enjoy all of the different opinions and characters I have encountered here, but having a manual would decrease some of my newbish questions.

So the tag says the rear diff is a 3.9 ratio. I would imagine that I should take the driveshaft off first then the hanger bolts and then the axle pins. Jack the old one out, then reverse the process with the replacement diff? Any other tips that I should be aware of?

Wow. Thanks everyone. To be completely honest, this site is so invaluable to me because of all the help I get when I ask questions. I am learning how to wrench bit by bit with every post and reply. Seriously...you folks rule!!! The car is an 88 GL Wagon, with on demand 4 wheel drive, non-turbo, 3 spd tranny. The tires are matched and the sound is happening on pavement but I haven't had a chance to test it on any of the slippy stuff. I will slide under the car and take a look at the sticker tonight and let you folks know what ratio the rear diff is reporting. The wrecker that I called is one of 2 in the area that house Subaru's, it's called Aldergrove Auto Wrecking and they quoted me $175 for the the rear diff. I saw the post about the 25 dollar diff... and here I thought I was getting a deal.

On that note...what color is good and what color is bad? Also...is there a prefered weight I should use? If I only had a proper manual...the haynes I have is good if you like jokes.

Yup, the rear axles are really sturdy actually, boots are sealed and I don't get any clicking. The sound happens both forward and reverse but only under load and in 4 wheel.

Sorry, that was a 3 spd automatic with on demand 4 wheel. Sounds like I would need the 3.7...? I guess I should run my VIN through the dealer to be sure.

Hey guys, I just got my 88 GL back from a Tranny rebuild (couldn't find another one within 2000km) as well as a new front differential. I am stoked...It's as smooth as glass in 2 wheel but I am getting a grind-ish/growly sound out of the rear differential now(may have been there before but I am not sure), but only in 4 wheel. We had it up and there is no noise when it's up, only when it's on the ground and in 4 wheel. I have a new drivers side wheel bearing in there (thanks to this wonderful website) and the other side is nice and tight so I would suspect it isn't the wheel bearings. The drive shaft is tight and aligned nicely as well. I understand that the rear diff's rarely go on these machines but all evidence so far points to the rear diff being the culprit. Here are my questions: 1. Is there a sure fire way to know if the rear diff is bad without cracking it open? Shake the axles? 2. I have found another differential near me for fairly cheap (I have yet to check what ratio mine is but they have both ratio's if needed). The process doesn't seem too difficult to swap. If I was to attempt this, are there any seals or bearings or anything else I should buy so I don't end up replacing them in a couple days?

Wicked. Thanks a bunch.

Hi All, I have a question about my 88 GL (AT 4x4). It has a rough idle when cold. It used to start right up and idle high for a minute or so like a choke, which seemed normal but now it will intermittently idle really low and rough but only on a cold start. After I drive for a minute or so, it's fine, just the initial cold start is rough. Here's what my homework tells me I could try: Coolant temp sensor - Replace. Idle stabilizer valve - Clean it. (IAC/ISV...not sure what they are called or even if I have one) Does this sound right? If so...can anyone tell me where these parts are on my vehicle? Oh yeah...I also don't know where the PCV valve is. I tuned up the car but couldn't find that part. Passenger side/back of the block maybe? Any help is always appreciated! Dean

Ok, so I can't even find a rebuild kit for my transmission. The local guy here says that they could make one for me but that would cost just as much as taking the tranny in to them to be repaired. He promised to only charge me 3 hours labor plus parts to fix it for me, which seems like a good deal. Tha being said, I am going to pull the tranny out myself. Again being a novice wrenchster, I am looking for some guidance. I have my Haynes manual which describes a few steps, but to be honest I don't trust it. Any suggestions for me here fellas? I don't expect anyone to list out the process, but maybe there's a link here that I can't find or a better guide that someone might know of? Dean

Thanks Doninical, those are 2wd transmissions. I have a 4wd so I am pretty sure those don't fit. Unless I am mistaken..?

Thanks everyone. I wasn't aware of the car-part site but I'll give that a shot. I have been through Aldergrove Auto wreckers, and put a call into Saltaire but no call back and Aldergrove doesn't have anything for me. I checked through craigslist and the buy and sell and I have seen a couple of GL's out in washington but they are 5 spd's as well. I would really like to try getting this one a new tranny before I start hacking the poor thing apart. Being such a novice, I have been reading as much as I can about automatic transmissions to prep myself on this journey. Numbchux - thats great info, thanks. At least I see my options are opening up here a bit. Ivantruckman...let me know what you find. So far you would be my only hit for a match. Dean

Well, I looked around the wreckers and I can't even find one that would fit. I'd be all for having a manual 5 spd/dual range but what else would be required if I found one of those? I am running out of options. I just can't afford to spend 1500 on a rebuild of this one. Does anyone know where I could get a 5 spd and what else I'd need to get one into my automatic? I just can't give up on the hands down best snow car I have ever driven. Dean

Hey folks, Just wondering what my transmission compatibility range is for my model. From what I gather, I could fit any 3EAT transmission in my vehicle from 1983-1994. Is this correct? I had been hearing some 'whinning' from it when I got up to about 60kmph and then on the highway this morning, I heard a pop/thud and it got weird on me. Like it had a broken gear. When I came to a stop it wouldn't engage until I had the rpms up and even then I could hear scraping/grinding noises when it was engaged. Neutral won't roll properly either...so I am looking for another transmission and I need to know what I can put in, in case I can't find an exact match. Dean

I think that will be my next attempt, as General Disorder has explained. If I can get the diff side pin out with the punches I buy, then I can see the axle coming out. I won't be able to try until next weekend, again but I will keep you all posted. Once again, and I am sure you must hear it over and over...thank you all so much!!

Yes, GLoyale...I had the shock bolt off and the lower arm down...up and down, as low as it would go, in several different positions with the hub end pin out. I had a jack in between the arm and the body to move it as well. I think Bratman is right. It must be rusted on because no matter how much force I used (big pry bar, hammer, c-clamp) it didn't even budge in any position. I kept shinning the light through the pinhole to see if it moved and no luck whatsoever. At this point I am willing to try anything, including dropping the diff. Will I have to get an alignment if I don't get the bolts back on the diff in the same position? I think I saw a post about that. Thanks guys. Dean