Deener

Do you mean a compression test on the cooling system or on the cylinders? I just picked up the intake gaskets from the dealer...they had them in stock!!! If anyone cares, it's part number 14025AA150.

Will do. I got an extra pair of intake gaskets when I picked up the ones for my GL. Man that sure would be great if thats all it is...I will update the thread with progress. Thanks GD.

Hi Everyone, I am convinced that I need to replace the headgaskets on this 1994 Loyale (Single Range 5 Spd, non-turbo) that I just recently acquired. I have performed two flushes and elevated burps, OEM T-stat, free-flowing dual core rad and both fans are working nicely. The temp guage doesn't climb up above 1/4, I haven't let it run out of coolant and there are NO leaks. For the amount of coolant that it is eating - I have concluded that it MUST be a HG: Symptoms/observations: - Oil filler cap had some 'mayo' on it when I first opened it up. - Cleaned off the mayo and now I get substantial condensation under the cap after driving it. - If I pop off the oil cap while its still hot, there is some steam coming out. - The coolant is going SOMEWHERE - but it's NOT leaking from the engine/rad or any hoses. - I drove it a couple hundred KM's and it swallowed the entire expansion tank's contents, plus some. - Oddly I don't see a lot of steam or smoke out of the tailpipe - it runs really clean. - The oil doesn't look contaminated, nor does the coolant. That being said, here's my homework that I could find regarding the proper/easiest procedure. Can anyone chime in if I have made any errors? 1. Unbolt AC bracket and move AC out of the way 2. Remove engine mounts on cross member 3. Remove stabilizer bar while keeping slight pressure on the jack 4. Jack up the engine and tranny together as one a few inches 5. Remove Valve covers 6. Unbolt heads in proper sequence 7. Check heads for warpage - use glass, wd40 and sandpaper(220) to clean and check heads 8. Remove/clean off the old gaskets nicely 9. Install new gaskets 10. Torque heads back on to spec in proper sequence 11. Reinstall valve covers using sticky lube 12. Drop engine back in and test My Questions: Should I drain coolant and undo the top rad hose prior to jacking? Not exactly sure what point to jack the engine and tranny up from? How exactly do you use glass to check the warpage of the heads? Dean

Update - I picked up a handfull (more than I needed) of the 5 watt, 33 Ohm resistors as per GD's recommendation, then soldered one in place of the PCS. I turned the car on and the CEL went away. Next I ran it through Air Care and it passed with flying colors! GD =- thanks again for the info. You guys rule.

I have to clear the CEL before it will get through emissions test (air care in canada) and I suppose that would do it. Wouldn't capping the lines also increase my emissions? If not - would any old electronics wholesaler have the right resistor? Dean

Update - I was able to get resistance from one of the solenoids (the one with the white clip - furthest right), but the other is definitely dead (the one with the black clip furthest left). There is power to both. How can I tell which one is which? Is it the PCS solenoid or the EGR solenoid? If you are facing the engine, it is on the left of the two and has one vacuum hose going to the canister and the other vac hose goes to something (washer fluid pump or something) - right in the corner, closest to the passenger. I hear that you have to order both of these solenoids from the dealer - I am just unsure of the name of mine that is broken. I am guessing that the black clip one furthest to the left is the PCS? Dean

Hi guys, I just picked up a 1994 Loyale 5spd (SPFI, I think) and it is giving me a code 35 - not sure what to look for. My searches haven't revealed a lot so far. I have seen the ERG valve open and close during operation so I would assume that piece is ok - when I move the valve with my fingers it slides easily and does a little click when it closes. There seems to be two different 'solenoids' I suppose that sit on the intake - one goes to the purge can and another to the egr valve. Should I be checking those 'solenoids' (if thats what they are) for resistance to determine functionality? - I don't detect any vacuum leaks. - The PCV valve seems to shake nicely when I pull it out. - The PCV lines don't seem blocked. - I have tried blocking the EGR valve line and the CEL still won't go off. Any other tips, tricks or previous posts that I can't find? Thanks a bunch, Dean

Awesome GD. Thank you!

Oh yeah...88, non turbo - SPFI.

Hi all, Does anyone know what the resistance values would be for my coil? I wanna bench test it to make sure it's good and I can't find anything here. EA82 /3AT and I assume that it is the original coil. Dean

Ah yes. Thanks a bunch GD - as always. I have actually been gauging my wrenching abilities by how many stuck/broken/stripped nuts and bolts I have been able to extract/re-tap etc. The number grows slowly with every turn of my drive. Some positive factors are better tools and not trying to rush it. If it doesn't come easily, then try the other way...not too hard now...ok...now the other way...now some heat...then the hammer...now some penetrating oil..ok, now the drill.... Thanks again you guys are awesome. Dean

Yes, so far it hasn't started any coolant leaks, it's just air on one side. I am fearing the time when I have to actually remove the intake and replace the gaskets. In the next week I am really short on time and , I need to get the car though Air Care - which I think is the same thing as SMOG in the USA/California(?). On that note, are the intake manifold gaskets a big job? I see six bolts plus maybe a couple of little ones on the back of the intake - do you recommend that i pull everything off first, or am I able to take the whole assembly of just by renmoving the 6 bolts? Obviously pull the throttle body and the vaccum lines that are in the way...but could I leave most of the other stuff on? Dean

Yes it's just to try and stabilize my rough idle to pass 'Air Care'. The IAC/ISV and throttle body are is clean and functioning, and all of the other tune up pieces are in place - cap/rotor/wires/filters etc. I have narrowed it down to this vaccum leak...I think - so I am going to seal it and see what happens. I picked up some DIRKO - do you think that stuff is safe to use around the intake manifold? It's supposed to be high temp stuff so I figured that should be ok. If not, what other kind of sealant would you recommend? Dean

Hey folks, I was poking around at slightly rough low idle issue I had lately (anything over idle is great, with lots of power) and I found that one of my intake manifold gaskets are blown, right where it sits on the engine, drivers side. I was just spraying carb cleaner around the vaccuum points to check for leaks and all of a sudden...VRROOOOM, the idle picked up. Closer examination shows one part of the gasket exposed and a direct blast of carb cleaner to that very spot has verified theres a leak. My question is what parts/gaskets should I order and if there are any tips for replacing the gaskets on the intake manifold? For example, should I get MORE than just the gaskets for the manifold since I will have a few parts off in the process? Dean

+1 on the #5 fuse. I couldn't get spark once when I had been messing around with my stereo. I had inadvertently left the little green wire touching the ashtray...well that shorted out fuse 5 and I couldn't get spark (after replacing the coil and bracket and checknig the dist). All I did was tape up the wire, then replace the fuse and it was good to go...

The pump seems ok. I mean, the power steering is working nicely, no leaks or weird sounds or anything. I will try to get a photo up when I get home from work. I was quite suprised to see the assembly on an angle as well, the only thing that makes visual sense it that the bracket got bent. Pretty sure that I would have to get a bracket from one of the guys on the message board since the auto wreckers around here aren't keeping anything older than the 90's loyales. I may give the washer theory a shot too. I haven't pulled it all apart yet since there were a few things in the way. Thanks for the input guys. I will report back. Dean

88 GL/EA82/3AT/Non-Turbo I heard a 'belt-ish' sound out of the engine so I had a look at my alternator belts and I noticed that the power steering pulley/pump/reservoir is sitting on an angle (the top of the pulley is slanted towards the front of the car) in comparison to the other 3 pulleys that the belts wrap around. I assume this was caused by over-tensioning of the alternator. I loosened the alternator and then managed to tighten one of the bolts that hold the PS assembly to the engine, which helped but thats not enough. The pulley is still on an angle in comparison to the other pulleys, which will undoubtedly cause premature belt wear, and perhaps snap one sooner than later. What I am wondering is will I need a new PS assembly/housing, or should I attempt to bend mine into place? I don't see any way to adjust the angle of the PS assembly so any recommendations would be appreciated.

I finally caught the light coming on so instead of doing the read memory procedure, I just turned the car off and checked the code...sure enough it was 31 - so I popped the hood and wiggled the TPS connection (the throttle sensor). Ha ha...The code hasn't come back. I fear taking that sensor off to clean it for two reasons: 1. I don't know the best way to preserve the little metal clip that keeps the sensor tconnector ight...I always end up bending the metal making the clip useless. 2. What is the best contact cleaner to use on those parts?

A little odd I suppose but here's the situation... Lately I have bveen starting the car (88 GL - EA82, 4WD, 3AT) and I get a check engine light. Seems to idle around 1500 or so off of a cold start (seems a little low). When the CEL is on, it's running a little rough when driving. Pushing the pedal at this point will only gradually increase RPM...not the super boost I am used to. The CEL is going away after about 5 minutes of driving. When the CEL is gone, it runs like a champ. I popped open the cover to the ECU and I get 7 short flashes when I turn the key to 'on' (not ignition)...which means there are no stored codes..correct? I know she needs a tune up soon...the plugs suck. Any one have any quick suggestions on what to check? The issue is intermittent, so I would guess some sensor wiring or something along that line (CTS, TPS, IAC...). Thanks a bunch!

Well...I got lucky. ALL of the nuts came off without any issue. There was one stud that had been replaced and re-tapped. The issue came from that hole...the stud that was put in didn't tighten enough to seal the deal. So, I put on a washer, with new gaskets on both sides and it's super quiet now. Thanks for all the input!

Hi everyone. As I was driving down the highway yesterday, I noticed my 88 GL was sounding loud. I got under and found that the gasket between the engine and the passenger exhaust side pipe is deteriorated, allowing my car to sound like a Harley. I am thinking about going and getting a gasket and attempting it myself but I have never done exhaust work. I expect that those bolts would be tough so penetrate them first, but does anyone have any tips for re-sealing that piece nicely - like should I use some sort of sealant along with the gasket or...? The pipe seems ok, it's just 'leaking' right at the gasket. Thanks in advance!

Wow...205's!!! I didn't think they'd fit. You don't get any rubbing on tight turns? I used to have a jetta gtx that I put some oversized tires on and I ended up using a hammer to make them fit.

Seriously...that sure sounds like what was happenning when my CTS was bad. Mine is located right under/beside the thermostat housing. Mine has a light green connector that has two wires running from the connector to what appears to be a bolt. I can't upload an image otherwise I would...

I just flushed mine recently and since I didn't have the flush kit adapter, I had to just use the garden hose. Yes, it makes a mess but you can pull the hoses to the passenger side of the engine to avoid getting the distributor wet. Mine was so clogged that I barely had a trickle at first, then after about 45 minutes of flushing it back and forth I managed to get about 60% more flow. I now have a LOT more heat but the core needs another try. I have heard that you can use drano, then flush it really well, then use baking soda to neutralize the drano. I don't know if it's the greatest idea but it would sure beat yanking off the dash to replace the core...

Ha ha..well...a few years ago when my rock band was touring the US, we came out of our hotel as we were finishing our beers. One of us was peeing beside the van and I was just finishing the last couple of swigs of my beer when we were arrested!!!! We all got tickets, and had to leave the next day so we didn't get a chance to pay them...so I had a bench warrant in NY...I tried to pay it though and short of going all the way back to NY, I just couldn't. So...if I was to get caught at the border with something illegal, I think I might have a bigger ticket to pay. So...no I am not an angel. BTW - the tires are great. Fantastic grips...