Deener

Well I got a pair of 185/70-13s for the front...I like to keep all seasons on the back just for a little more action. Of all places, the only place that had them (and it was the last set and only at one store) was CANADIAN TIRE. They are Goodyear Nordic's. I have thought abnout heading over to the Les Schwab in Ferndale, which is only about a 2 hour drive, but there's the issue of smuggling - I'd have to stay there for a couple days to make it legal or I'd have to pay up. I guess a weekend of riding at Baker would probably be a good excuse. Thanks for all of your input, it is truly appreciated.

Hey fellas, Here in Vancouver BC, I have called all of the tire shops looking for my tire size - 185/70-13 and I am told that size has been dicontinued???? The closest replacement I can find is 175/70-13 but I don't want to go to a smaller tire. I have hunted for 14"rims (the white ones...steel old school ) but I can't find them up here either. Can anyone suggest a good size for the 13's? Or do I have to go to a smaller tire size? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I had the EXACT same issue. I have an 88 GL Wagon, EA82, 3AT transmission. I fixed it by (firstly listening to the guys on this site): COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR!!!!! - That was the majority of the issue, once it was replaced, the cold start issue disappeared. She fires right up every time, and I don't have to give it gas to start it anymore and there's no more holding the throttle open all the way anymore either if it stalls. - I bought a multimeter and pulled my CTS out and it had ZERO reading. Pulled the wires off of where they connect to the screw/thermal piece and found that one wire was disconnected - hence no reading from it. Replacing the sensor was a HUGE differnce for me and aparently it's a common issue. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE!!!! - Mine was gummed up so it was idling all over the place. I just took it off, cleaned it out with carb cleaner and haven't had an issue since. AIR INTAKE!!!! - Mine had a bunch of goo in it, so cleaning that out with carb cleaner also stopped it from running rough. Before I did these things, I learned how to read the ECU codes which also confirmed the CTS issue. I would suggest pulling your codes, identifying your Coolant Temperature Sensor and testing it first...if thats your issue then you will be suprised how much of a difference it makes to have a working one. Good luck!

DRANO! Of course...thanks guys. I will definitely 'giver' a shot. Obviously not too much otherwise I'll gut the thing but a little bit with couldn't hurt.

Hi all, EA 82 - 88 GL Wagon (no ac, 3at tranny, on demand I flushed my heater core last night and I found that she's really clogged. I ran the hose through it both ways for about 45 minutes and I was able to get about twice the flow out of by the end but it's still not 100% unclogged. The water runs clear through it now but I it's not enough to produce tons of heat in the cab. I have increased the amount of heat so I do get heat but I know it can be better. That brings me to ask if there is any sort of addative that I could use to clean that core out? I have heard of using vinegar for a couple days and then doing a full flush but I thought I'd ask you folks first in case there's something that truly works or at least has worked for someone. I really don't want to pull the dash off and replace the core. Dean

I have an 88 GL - EA82-SPFI-3AT. I was noticing similar symptoms until I had cleaned out the MAF, and the IAC, but then the idling issue got really bad. I took a multimeter and couldn't get a reading from the CTS, it LOOKED ok, but I got a CTS from Subex here, put it in and my power loss and idling issues went away. Further examination of the suspected broken CTS revealed that one of the connections to the CTS (under the rubber connection wires, right where they connect to the metal of the sensor) was off. When I connected it on the bench, I was able to get a reading from the MM. So...those three things were it for me - MAF, IAC and CTS.

Not only did it fix the low cold idle issue, the car is running amazing now. It kicks down at almost any point in acceleration and runs super smooth with more power. The rebuilt tranny and front diff help I suppose, but the CTS sure played more of a bigger role in combustion than I expected. Let it snow so I can show off the gazelle!!

I had the same issue - 88 GL Wagon, EA82/SPFI and it was a clogged radiator. I found here in vancouver that I can get one for roughly 100 bucks. Dean

So the CTS I got from Subex fit my vehicle and the CEL went off as soon as I fired it up. Thanks again to all of you. I tried to find the bosch type fi connector but nobody carried them in the local parts stores. I will probably try it in the future if this one goes on me. YOU GUYS RULE!!!!!! I gotta go for a rip now... Dean

Good stuff Gloyale. Thanks. I have already told Subex that I will buy his parts so I am not going to go back on him now. I would like to have an extra TPS anyways since they seem very scarce in my area. Whats the TPS testing procedure? I looked at my Haynes Manual and it says to just test two terminals together. Is there a write up on the procedure or is it straightforward?

Well, I put a want ad out for these two sensors and Subex responded within minutes! He is sending me both for about $75 american shipped. Stoked! They are out of a 94 Loyale 5Spd spfi, EA82. Thats the same engine so I assume the sensors will work. Man...I love this forum.

Yes, logically I will now find where the wires go to the ECU from the CTS and make sure they are good the whole way. But since I have the wiring unplugged, and I have tested the CTS twice now cold and hot to no avail...woldn't that say that the sensor is toast? The ECU code 21 reinforces that theory, doesn't it? The throttle sensor is connected nicely, I pulled it off and re connected it to be sure. None of the wreckers in my area have my year of vehicle and thusly no parts. That being said, what are the cross compatibility rules for things like sensors and different years/models? I would imagine that for the CTS, it would have to be the same size non-turbo and for the Throttle sensor, it would have to be off of an SPFI model/EA82. Are there any cross compatibility possibilities here?

Thats kinda what I thought. The Throttle sensor is about 330 new and the CTS is about 100. Unfortunately the junkyard near me doesn't keep much of the older models (Aldergrove Auto Wrecking). I'll give them a shot though. Thanks for all of your help. GD especially. You guys are the reason I am still rolling. Dean

Ok, I tried back probing the sensor. I unplugged the green connector and stuck the probes in the female end. I got no reading on ANY of the settings on the MM(ranges are 200, 2k, 200k, 20M). I did this just after I had it nice and hot. I also had the same results cold...no reading from the MM whatsoever when probing the electrical points. I notice that my CTS doesn't look like the ones I see in most pictures that I see. Mine has a green electrical connector, two wires go to the metal part, but my metal part is very short in comparison to what I see online. There is no metal beyond the threads at all. In fact, the metal piece is only about 1/2 an inch long. I finally retrieved the codes...woo hoo! I got a 21 and a 31 (two dashes, one dot, then three dashes and one dot...then repeat over and over). According to the trouble codes listed here, that says: 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit and 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit I double checked the connector for the throttle sensor (on the side of the intake) and it seems fine. Any suggestions where to go from here? Just buy those two sensors? Dean

To clean the CTS I used sandpaper and then blew it off with compressed air. For the IAC, I pulled it right of the engine and used carb cleaner and my roomates toothbrush!

So I got a multimeter and pulled the coolant temperature sensor. Well, I am not sure if I am using the meter correctly, but I tried setting it to 200 Ohms (I have a selector for 200, 2k, 200k and 2M and I zero'd it first) and with the sensor out, I touched both ends to the electrical connections of the sensor and got nothing. I then heated the bolt part with a lighter and put both ends of the meter on the bolt part and got about a .5 reading. However, I couldn't get a reading when it was cold. Does this mean that the sensor is toast or I tested it wrong? Since my last post here I have removed and cleaned the IAC and before I put the CTS back in, I sanded the scale off of it. The idle is much smoother and stable now but an issue remains...When I start the car cold, it will fire up and die right away. If I start it again, it will idle but really low - like around 400 rmp or so. If I drive right away like this, it bogs down because it's not warmed up. But if I start it the second time and keep the rpm around 2000 for a minute or so, it will drive nicely. I have yet to pull codes from it because I can't figure out the connectors in the engine properly. There is a white set that looks like they will go together and a green set that looks like they connect as well. There are two more sets (an orange and a black set) that will not connect together. With the key in the ON position, and neither the geen or white ones connected in the engine bay I still don't see anything flashing. Any thoughts or suggestions? Dean

Thanks a bunch. I got the IAC cleaned and it now idles much better...no fluctuation. It seems to drive smoother too. I will post the codes when I can get them properly but I am going to pull the CTS first and clean it up. I can see some scale/deposit around where it screws in.

I went looking for the codes but couldn't find the L.E.D. I popped the cover off of the under side of the steering wheel, then turned the key to the on position and I couldn't see any flashing light anywhere. I am not sure where to look for the L.E.D. Do I need a mirror to see in behind there somewhere or should it be obvious? According to the posting I read I shouldn't have to connect anything to read codes that relate to starting and driving.(?) I am also going to take a crack at removing and cleaning the IAC today but it looks like I have to remove the power steering reservoir to get at the IAC screws. Looks like two bolts hold it on so that should be straightforward. Is there an easy way to drain the reservoir prior to removal or should I just get ready for the mess?

Thanks GD. I cleaned the MAF and I did see the CTS. I threw in some new spark plugs because the hood was open. I have to buy a mutilmeter soon, so once I have it I will give it a shot and report the resistance. I have never operated one but it can't be that hard to figure out I am sure. I did see the the post about pulling codes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918&highlight=trouble+codes I don't know how to check the codes yet, but I am eager to try. Can you describe the connectors and where to look for the flashing light...or are they super obvious and right there? I understand the connectors are under the steering wheel to the left, but is that where I look for the flashing LED too? "With NEITHER test connector connected, and the key in the ON (engine off) position, the light will display codes that relate to starting and driving..." Thanks a million again....

Hey folks, I am just troubleshooting my intermittent goofy idle/rough driving. Symptoms are: - CEL comes on here and there (sporadic) - Runs better when the CEL is off (not much suprise there) - On a cold start it won't idle the first time. It will start, then reach about 1500rpm's then drop down to 0 and stall within about 3 seconds. Second time I start it, she will stay at idle but seemingly low. - Sometimes the overdrive won't 'kick' - like I stomp the pedal when going various speeds and there's no response...just a slow climb of the rpm's and the speed of course. However, sometimes it will blast off like a rocket...usually when the CEL is off. I have cleaned out the MAF and top of the carb (where the choke is..?)before and the CEL went away for a bit but it has returned. Yes it is a Hitachi Carb and Disty. Rebuilt Tranny and front Diff last month (positive the downshift thing is combustion related). Before I go buy new plugs/wires/rotor/cap/PCV/filters, I would like to know 2 details about things I have learned here that may be related 1. Is the Coolant Temp Sensor the wired plug on the passenger side of the radiator? If not where is it located on my engine? I would like to clean it. 2. I have read up and tried to clean out the IAC - Do I have to remove it to clean it properly? I have tried cleaning it by removing the hose but I can't get all of the way inside it. Any special advice on that one? Thanks a bunch! Dean

Congratulations. That was the first post for me where I was able to offer a little help to someone, instead of someone helping me. Glad to hear you are runninig cool!

Thanks GD. I am going to go with a new single row replacement. The best price I can find here in Vancouver is $108 from performance radiator. I would have liked to try a two row or whatever you call them (from the turbo) but I am just weary about coming up against any custom fitting or the likes. If it wasn't for you guys on this message board, my car wouldn't run. Dean

Hmmm...intersting. It seems oposite...it seems hotter on the top and cooler on the bottom. I am going to flush it regardless, but I am starting to wonder if it's the water pump. The pump isnt leaking, but I suppose the impeller could have disintegrated.

I had a similar issue and I couldn't spot the leak. Mine was from a little tiny hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold. By way of the water flow, I couldn't spot it until I had the car up to temp and pressure, kept it running and then I could see the pinhole spraying down. I had to push the MAF aside to see it, as it was directly below it.