Twitch de la Brat
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Posts posted by Twitch de la Brat
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Thought so. I'll be doing that when I swap in the 5sp d/r.
Any recommendations on how much to take off with a high-comp, torque build EA81?
I'll be running an EA82 flywheel.
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Necrobump. Any new on this? I need to acquire a lighter flywheel for my hi-comp EA81.
I can shift the sucker faster than the engine drops revs (even with the stock 4sp) and it revs plenty quick right now, but losing revs is a pain. Takes way too long to return to idle speed.
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Soooo my temp fix (ignoring it) on my tranny mount ended up eating an axle.
Oh well. I'll just yank one off the BRAT and drop it in, as soon as I dig the BRAT out of the snowbank...
Also, we finally have aftermarket transmission mounts!
So $30 and a few bucks shipping from amazon and I'll have 2 fresh transmission mounts.
Hell, I'll just order something for $5 and skip the shipping
Anyway, thats the major updates.
Still slowly sanding off the old paint with wind, rain, snow and the occasional brushing against with clothing
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Well, I'm boned. Figured this would happen so I was real careful, used heat and penetrating oil. Needed to replace my T-stat in the '84 wagon. Looks like it had been done before so I was hopeful the bolts would come out fairly easily. I was wrong on the easily part. Snapped one bolt. Still have a little nubbin sticking out I can grab on to. Keeping positive on this, I'm hoping with lotsa pen oil, heat, patience, and time, I can work the bugger out. Realistically, I think I'm gonna end up having to drill and tap.
Looks like the T- stat was replaced at some point with a non-dealer one. While it fit, it seems small with a lot of room for movement. Meaning I could spin it around. The new dealer T-stat fits snugly with no room to spin. Hope they gave me the right one. We'll see.
Don't be too surprised if you have to get a new intake.
The bolt in mine was so hard it dulled brand new carbide bits (albeit harbor freight)
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Suffering from Brat envy..........
I've got a second Gen for sale...
Also, I was just informed of a first gen for sale at a local lot in Hayden (North of Coeur d'Alene).
To OP, congrats on the new acquisition!
Glad you found us and that we could help.
Don't forget to hit up the 1st Gen forum for any goodies or advice you may need.
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Ok quick google search and I found that the MAF is the 'mass airflow sensor' (learn somthing new every day)
. Im pretty sure my car does not have one,(someone correct me if im wrong) although still a great tip not to over-soak the filter.Your car has a carburetor, and therefore no MAF
Carbs usually don't care what filter they have as long as it flows enough air. I had (have) a K&N on my BRAT and I didn't notice any real pickup in power, but I did notice it's resiliency to oil coming through the PCV system.
If you have higher mileage, a K&N may be worth it in the fact that it doesn't sog up with oil like a paper filter does.
I may have the part number laying around somewhere for that if you'd like the exact number
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I love my Jeep.
I love my jeep.
I love my Jeep.
I love my Jeep.
*ahem*
Noted
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The top was crunched down more, but I used my high lift and jacked it up so I could drive it home.
Time for a fun bit swap and junkyard drop off.
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Made another attempt at removing this axle from this diff... Man, that is stuck. My Dynahoe 190 is not a small backhoe.
This is a spare. I'm not sure what else to try, or just give up on it.
Apply said tension, apply penetrating oil, heat it with a torch, then find a brave (stupid) soul to whack it with a BFH (Big F-ing Hammer).
Just make sure they don't crack the cup.
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Les schwab no good?
Tires are good, depending on brand of course, but the guy probably paid out the nose for them. If he gave you the receipts with them, you can go to an Les Schwab and they'll rotate them and do free flat repairs. But otherwise the place is a massive money sucking hole.
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PS: For example, they have a separate charge for mounting and balancing. It's like $12 to mount and $8 to balance a tire. Last time I had them put on a set of tires I walked out with over an $80 bill for 4 tires, mounted and balanced.
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Do you have a manufacturer / part number for the pre made ones?
How do they compare to the stock lighting?
I just used the lookup on an auto parts store's website to find the bulb number required and then searched it on amazon. EG: "192 LED", and it brought up a good number of listings.
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PS: 192 bulbs are the bulbs for EA81 dash/indicator lights and front markers
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Do you have a manufacturer / part number for the pre made ones?
How do they compare to the stock lighting?
I just used the lookup on an auto parts store's website to find the bulb number required and then searched it on amazon. EG: "192 LED", and it brought up a good number of listings.
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PS: 192 bulbs are the bulbs for EA81 dash/indicator lights and front markers
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As has been mentioned, have you checked your alternator output?
A random voltage spike can fry a lot of different things.
Also, have you checked the backside of the fuse box for corrosion/broken/frayed wires?
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Nice job. I'm considering doing the same for all of my dash lights, but the LED replacements are so cheap and easy to get...
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Duty C Solenoid has failed. It is the solenoid that locks up the AWD in the transmission.
You need to put in the FWD fuse unless it's really slick outside and you need the extra traction.
What is happening is the center clutch pack is locked and when you turn, the tires are trying to turn at different speeds, but the clutch pack isn't allowing that to happen.
So it starts to bind up the drivetrain and slows down the car.
The easiest "remedy" is to plug in a 15 amp fuse into the FWD fuse holder on the front passenger side strut tower.
The proper remedy is to replace the duty C solenoid and the clutch packs in the tailshaft of the transmission.
Further details awaiting your response.
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Hello everyone,
Our three month old Crosstrek is showing a TPMS light but all of the pressures are exactly where they should be according to the specs on the car. I can't find any damage to the tires/wheels and everything seems to be fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Two Boo Fam
Did you change the wheels or tires on it?
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Photos will help a Lot.
I know
I have been quite busy as of late, so prime photography times have been elusive. But its not pretty.
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6 month old Delco alternator just locked up on me. Overcharged for a few miles, seized and smoked the belt. Lucky for me, I just happen to be at my daily breakfast spot.
Been seeing a lot of failing alternators recently myself at NAPA. Starting to wonder if our rebuilder got a bad batch of components. Wonder if Delco is using the same suppliers?
I haven't checked any other retailers to see if they've had a lot of returning parts yet or not.
As for my 83 Blu Bomb, got him aligned and some fresh inner tie rods put on. Just so happens I got the last 2 inner tie rods left in at least a 3 state area. So apologies to any who may be looking acquire EA81 inner tie rods in the northwest. Only other one I could find was in Alaska
Also swapped my good tires from the XT to the wagon since the XT is still down with an unreliable fuel pump. And still really don't want to have to buy one.
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PS: Finally got another car home, and now realize I just want it gone, so if anyone is interested in a beater BRAT (and I mean beater body-wise at this point), let me know. PM or e-mail would be best. Btwitchy102 at geemale dot coma
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I like the idea of the jig. As for size and speed rating, thats no big deal, I can take the old bearings into the local bearing builder and have them matched exactly, they do excellent work. Once the jig has been made the time to rebuild them is negligable, compared to waiting for them to be shipped. Once I've done one set, I'll have all the specs on the bearing and jig setup and then the cost and time would be negligable and quality would be far greater
You working with Brown in Spokane? Or someone else?
Also, don't be afraid to call up your local napa to get bearing numbers off of specs, because we have access to thousands of bearing numbers.
This is of course dependent upon if your local store still has their bearing spec book.
If all else fails, get a micrometer/calipers and call the Rathdrum store, (208) 687-5500.
I work there and that book is very well known and used. If you're hoping to get me, I work Mondays and Fridays only right now; otherwise everyone else is pretty (or very in some cases) knowledgeable.
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I have been playing around with idea of rebuilding my timing belt idlers on my 2.2. I had a used set of t belt idlers and I took my race/seal driver and was able to knock the bearing out of an idler easily. I was thinking about buying some good quality bearings and replacing the bearings in my old idlers instead of buying new ones.
I know the new bearings would have to be aligned exactly so I was thinking about cleaning the idlers really good and using spray paint to mark their exact position.
I doubt it would be hard to find the right size bearings and I bet the cost would be quite a bit cheaper and would probably be better quality than a cheap kit.
Any advice? I do have a non interferance engine so if for some reason it were to cause the belt to fail it wouldn't hurt my engine, I'd just have to get a tow home.
Considering the risk and cost of getting new bearings vs rebuilding the old ones, I'd say this may be an exercise in futility, but, to humor you, I'll try to exact some more details.
You'd need to match your bearings exactly. And by exactly, I mean within a ten-thousandths of an inch.
Type of bearing is obviously easy, but bearing speed rating needs to be matched as well.
Also, depth alignment and getting the bearing to seat in properly could be a challenge.
If you could set up a jig that seats the bearing flat and at the right depth, you might be on to something for a quick turnaround for customers/yourself.
You know how to work wood?
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As long as im asking about fuel pumps, how much does a new OEM one run for; just so I know incase mine should suddenly poop out?
Can't say for OEM, but Napa has some universal fitments that match spec for $50-80 online.
You could probably cross their number with something on rockauto and get it even cheaper.
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Years and years and years.
Their death seems to be random and, unfortunately, untimely.
I've only ever replaced one carbed EA fuel pump and that was because the previous owner had removed it
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Just so we are clear, there is almost no way to go that low and "do it right" About the only way to get the "Stanced" look that people want is to lower the body on the chassis/frame, otherwise your suspension geometry and movement is severly compromised.
Right, I was implying that the other person may assist in doing it "right", as in not bastardizing the hell out of a straight car.
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After reading your post, you're going to have to fab almost everything. Literally.
The only "Aftermarket" for these cars is to go taller, and that's just those of us on the few old school Subaru boards.
As was suggested previously, and only to emphasize it, declock the rear torsion bar and possibly find/make some shorter front springs and struts.
And no, torching springs or simply cutting off part of the spring isn't "making" new springs.
You haven't stated, but is it 2wd or 4wd?
There is a gentleman somewhere on here with a 1st gen (EA71 body) with it slammed and cambered.If you can find him he may be able to offer a few tips on how to do it right.
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Specs Needed: WRX Flywheel vs EA82
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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That it does. I'm sure I can hunt down an XT6 in the junkyard, and I usually order the XT6 clutch when I do the 5sp swap anyway to maximize biting force without compromising drivability and costing an exorbitant amount.
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