vincentmoy

Nope, not for the 2nd Gen.

Well, the story began with someone bashed the tailgate windows sometime on Saturday night. I wasn't very happy but I was lucky enough to find a shop that can install the window today. But after an hour of waiting they told me that they couldn't get the rear gate open. I took a look at it and sure enough no matter how many times I unlock the door thru remote or the driver door, it won't unlock. I replaced the outer handle in April so the handle is working. When I took the latch out it seems like the tab that moves the latch is blocking the mechanism that connects to the handle. For example, after I unlock the door, the mechanism that connects to the handle is sitting on top of the tab, therefore when I use the handle, it's just scratching the top of the tab instead of pushing it to release the latch. I don't know if it all make sense to you guys but I'm wondering if it's just a coincident that the latch fails at the same time. I also want to know do I have to replace the whole Latch & actuator. Here's a video of what I'm talking about. Thanks!

Hi all, I have a 2003 XS. Last Sat I decided to change the front brake pad as the shop said it only has about 25% left on the pad. In the process, my friend and I managed to break the lower caliper bolt on the driver side. So we went to a local hardware store (Ace) and grab one that is closest to the stock one. We put everything back together and I didn't notice anything wrong for a few days. However, starting Wednesday, I started to hear some squeaking from the front during low to medium cruise speed (rolling to about 30 mph). It sounds REALLY like a brake with old pad on, except it's about 10 times louder (It sounds like it's from inside the cabin, until I rolled down the window this morning). Also, it happens after about 15 min of driving and earlier if the car is warm. However, never really have a problem if the car has sat for a while. The squeak doesn't change with speed, as long as it's within that speed range. Also, the car is not pulling. I tried driving straight & brake with my hands off and it still going like an arrow. A fact while we changed the brake, we didn't change the rotor nor get the rotor turned due to time. Would that be just the rotor?

They said they checked the head gasket and it looked fine too.

You mean the CV joint? The said they looked at the boot and "everything where that possibly can cause a leak" and couldn't find anything.

Hi all, I have a 2003 Foz XS 5 speed with 148k miles on it. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 Full syn High Miles oil in it about 2 mo. ago. Then winter came and when I started the car in the morning and let it sat a little, it would get a really bad smell. It smell almost like oil on exhaust or burning rubber. It usually worst when I hadthe fan on full blast and highest heat. Once the car started moving, the smell went away pretty fast and MIGHT come back in a BARELY noticable way if I sat on a stop light for a while. I took it to a respectable Subaru shop to get it look at today and they said they couldn't find any oil leak at all. They suggest it MIGHT be the cabin air filter. Do you guys have any ideas? P.S. I usually have the rear defrost and the windshield wiper de-ice on during the warm up. Don't know if it matters or not.

I have a 2003 Forester with about 149k miles on it. It's a 5 spd and everything is running smoothly. The other day I got some gear oil (Valvoline Durablend for trans and syncpower for rear diff.) to get ready to change the fluid in my trans and rear diff. But I talked to a co-worker, who was an auto mech. said I should NOT change them and it's a waste of money. I am just wondering what is your take on that. Thanks!

From what I found out, KBB usually gives a higher price than NADA and Edmunds

Well, I guess I just flooded the engine because after I let it sat for another hour, it started the 1st crank:rolleyes:

So, my 98 Impreza OBS 5MT with about 190k was invloved in a drive way accident last weekend and resulted in a bended hood and some other front end damages. On Monday, my roommate and I were fiddling around with it and it cranked right up. Then it was sitting until today. I went out and started it and made sure it ran for a couple minutes, then I turn it off and went back to the house. About an hour later I went back out, clean off some snow and try to start it again. This time it cough (sounds like it caugh but once I release the key it died) the first time. After that, it will crank all day (well, more like 5 mins) and won't catch. Do you guys have any ideas? Thanks so much!

I didn't buy the clips, is it necessary? BTW, $400 is just labor, I already got the clutch kit from ebay and a new flywheel.

That's the bad part because I just looked him up on Craigslist as most shop quote me around $700 in town. I didn't have a chance to look at his shop at all. All the info I got is what he told me.

So, after searching around for a bit I found a guy when can do my clutch for about $400. However, his shop/home is about 50 miles away and he only has a dolly. Now, I have a couple questions: 1. It's a 98 Impreza OBS 5sp MT. He said he can disconnect the rear drive and dolly it to his place. I did a bit of research and seems that most everyone confirm that is true. But I just want to make sure. 2. I am just wondering if changing a clutch on a subaru is that much different than any other car. Because that guy has no certificate so-to-speak but he said he had been fixing car "professionally for last 3 years and been working on cars for a long time." I have a little bit of uneasy feeling about that but am I just overreacting? Thank you much

What is a BHG?

Don't know if it's just AK or not for that price... but that shop is Subaru specialist. Anyways, I am lining up with a guy I found on CL who can give me a cheaper rate. I am just wondering if anyone think the flywheel & the clutch I ordered from previous post is bad (brand/ reliability wise). Also, from the report, the shop said the clutch fork MAY be damaged, should I replace it as well? Thank you very much guys!

The shop called back and said the clutch was toasted. And they quoted me $1620 - 1680 and changed everything: clutch, flywheel, bearings, etc. I just ordered this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150047859039&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT and this http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Impreza/Sachs/Flywheel/1998/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-2L/S2NFW6605.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain Are they any good?

It was the previous owner who replaced the clutch. So I have no idea where he got the parts from. But he is an aircraft mechanic and seems to keep the car in real good shape so I have no reason thinking he used cheap parts. I have the record at home (he save all receipts since day 1.) but I'm at work right now...

Ya, I believe it's cable. My friend said it's probably the clutch

Hi all, I have a 98 OBS MT with about 199k orig. This morning when I was driving to work, it was getting really hard to shift and ground the gears a few times when I shifted. At first I thought I didn't press the clutch hard enough but no matter how hard I pressed I still ground the gears. And then I couldn't put it in gear from N at the stop light a couple times. I needed to turn off the car, put it in gear, then start it back up. Everything seems to be fine once it started, it may have some SLIGHT shatter that I thought it was normal. However, I still had a really hard time shifting. Then, after a mile or 2, the car just lost power. No matter what gear I put in there was just no power transmitted to the wheels. Also, it shattered really hard when the gear tried to engage, oh, and it smelled like burn too. I pulled over and check the trans oil and it seemed like there was oil. The car is in the shop right now and they won’t be able to look at it until tomorrow. So I would like to see what you guys have to say. I really appreciate your help! Service History: Clutch changed in Apr 06; new timing belt, WP, Cam seals in Apr 09; Changed trans and rear diff oil in May 09; Last Eng oil change was this summer @ 195k

That's what he told me today. 1. The Themostate was good, even the one he was replacing 2. Water can go throw the Rad freely, so there is no clogging. He said it's pretty much down to the HG...

I don't think he did.

He got this one early summer from a wrack yard because his old one cracked. I will tell him to see if it's possible to get another one. It does not sounds like a HG issue does it?

OK, I've heard of the HG problem with the later Leg with the 2.5 but I'm not sure if this is one of them too. He has a 2.2 AT with 220K on the odo. The Eng started to overheat this past Friday (10/16) and it was fine before. He pulled over and saw the coolant is overflowing from the reservoir. He was a way home so he kept driving and the temp. has spiked and then back down to normal serval times. Yesterday when we drained the coolant we got less than a gal. Then we proceeded to change the WP, TB, and Themostate (all after-market). We idle it till the fan came on and there were no leaks so we took it for a drive. After a mile or 2 the thing got overheat again and after we hit home the reservoir is overflowing AGAIN! When I touched the upper radiator hose (Eng to Rad.??) it was hot but the lower hose (Rad. to Eng) was cold. Also the Eng seems to sucking the water back and collapse the upper hose (After we turned off the Eng). We are running out of clue so I would if you guys can shed some light for us! Thanks!!

My OBS does not has the OEM fog light.

Huh, I thought my lens are not "clean" enough for HIDs as I was reading some posts regarding HIDs in Loyale. Or am I making things up in my mind? I definitely don't wanna blind on coming tfc nor when people look at mirrors since it's always dark here during winter.