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Pontiac6KSTEAWD

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Posts posted by Pontiac6KSTEAWD

  1. The trail starts (or ends, depending on direction) about eight miles north of Gardner. The first several miles are county-maintained dirt road. The road does cross private property several times so respect the property of others and tread lightly. You'll also pass through National Forest land with primitive camp sites along the way. There is a "mud hole" to cross that can be deceiving. During the summer months there is plenty of traffic, so if you get stuck someone will eventually pass by to pull you out (hopefully). Creek crossing usually means climbing out over eroded banks that may give you a bit of a challenge but they're not usually too bad. There are a few spots that are tight for full-size vehicles with mirror-eating trees that want to get just a little too close. That's forgivable in autumn when you pass through a section of road that is completely enclosed in Aspens. The colors are magnificent during the fall color change.

     

    On the other side, you'll be in the Great Sand Dunes National Monument where you'll have to pay an entrance fee to exit on Highway 150. It may be a good idea to air down your skinny tires once you hit the sand. There are air hoses to refill once you get to the RV campground area. We usually turn around and head back the way we came, but if you've had enough you can take Highway 150 south to Highway 160 and head east to Walsenburg.

     

    Links

    http://travel.webshots.com/album/31665008NHgydckIPd

    Link with a funny story..

    http://www.4x4trails.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4979

     

     

    Those holes in the road would have me worried!! But otherwise, will have to try it when I get my K6.

  2. You will most likely need a small electric lift pump so that the fuel gets from the tank to the injection pump. Once the system is primed at the injection pump, the lift pump really isnt needed. but leaving it running can reduce the amount of wear and tear on the injection pump, since those are the most expensive.

  3. My local Suby dealer I go to, said the HG issues were fixed by 2004, and somewhat fixed for 2003 depending on production time. They do see some of the 03's come in for HG's, and even some of the later models, but not nearly as many..

     

    I may be buying it. Waiting to hear back on a Auction that I was bidding on, ebay. I might end up getting both. I will need a fall back car for when my tribeca goes back for lease.

  4. Dealers asking price is 5900

     

    KBB Private Party

    Excellent $8,710

    Good $8,085

    Fair $7,260

     

    KBB Retail

    $10,860

     

    NADA

    Base Price................... $7,425 $8,550 $9,450 $11,475

    Mileage - 160,000 miles -$1,650 -$1,650 -$1,650 -$1,650

    TOTAL PRIC..................$5,775 $6,900 $7,800 $9,825

     

    Its a good deal, and I doubt I will come across something this good again. The dealer, a Saturn dealer, will probly wholesale it off later this week because of the miles.

  5. come to think of it, it would almost be a fun experiment, get some sprockets and chain and give it a whirl. you'd have to fabricate a front metal cover and have oil supply for the chain from the pump. water pump would be seriously in the way. if the system was closed, which it would have to be you wouldn't have to worry about cam/crank seal leaking any more!

     

    You may have hit on something there. Take those seals out for a feed supply, and in the side of the fabbed up timing CHAIN cover, drill a hold, weld in a tube that drains into the oil pan. Side because you would want a certain amount to build up to make it to the timing chain. Interesting. But still probly very expensive and time consuming. but interesting none the less.

     

    EDIT: Althou finding someone that is willing to press off the water pump pulley, to press on a timing chain water pump pulley, and then custom fabbing up some cogs for all the other points.

     

    Still interesting

  6. Water pump was replaced at 100k with the timing belt. Regular service means, if it was suggested in the owners manual for it to be done at a certain milage, it was. Difs were serviced every 30k miles, tranny serviced every 30k miles, cooling system every 30k miles, etc. I do have the service records from the dealer, and I could type them out, but that would take freaking forever, its 5 pages long.

  7. All the cars pictured above will have steel reinforcements going from the front of the car, to the rear. I have seen 1 of those Verts, and the steel reinforcements hang down about 1 inch lower than the standard uni-body. I wouldn't suggest it without either beefing up the uni-body, or the car could buckle as soon as you hit a pothole/speedbump.

  8. My money is on one of 2 things. The differential, or the upper strut bearing plate. But I am thinking its not going to be the bearing plate. When those go, it normally creates a knocking, or banging noise, when going over bumps. The howling noise sounds alot like the differential to me that's needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Eventually it will seize inside, and forcefully make the car come to a stop, and possibly break a drive shaft/CV. Seen it happen once. It aint pretty.

  9. I am looking at a 03 Subaru Baja Classic I found at a local dealer, its in great shape, I have all the dealer service records from when it was new. Has soft Tanau Cover, leather seats, power windows/locks/seats/moonroof, and all the other gadgets the Bajas came with.

     

    Now heres the issues, first, it has 160k miles. It was a company car, but he took care of it, every 30k miles, like clockwork, the car was in the dealer getting the 30k service that was due.

     

    Asking price is 5900. Should I do it? Was going to see if I could talk them down to 5200. No warranty available.

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