mr.radon

I paid $50 for the D/R I got. No, the cutout is the same, but you will need a new boot for the shifter and a D/R cover. took a week or two till I found onw in my color (gray). Go with the D/R - Push buttons are for weenies....

If I'm young to you, you must be pretty old.... Alright, I'm going to look at places that repair/sell parts for Pugs, but to save me time: Anyone know of a J-yard in the greater Seattle metro area that has any pugs? Any Pug repair shops in the greater Seattle area? Anyone with a set they are willing to sell me? Thanks for the clues. BTW - one of the biggest mistakes I made in my life with cars was buying a Renault Fuego. I saw one at PAP the other day. They had to restrain me after they noticed I was kicking the car. I replaced the clutch every 8K miles, brakes where horrible, and the cooling would never purge. Then the air valve system for ventilation when fubar in winter?!?!? The ride down Rabbit Ear's pass in winter having to pull over every 10 minutes to add brake fluid because of a leaky gizmo on the rear brakes. Maybe I shouldn't put French rims on my Subaru?????

Went to all the local J-yards. No luck. Seattle times lists no Peugeot cars for sale. I even when to an on-line rim dealer and no luck for Peugeot rims! Where should I be looking for these 15" Pugs?

My system has two remotes, Just splice it and run the wire to both systems. The amps are just looking for a digital ON signal. They do nothing but bias the AMP to turn on. Power draw is under 10 mA.

Good sugestion on the AA battery. Thats what I use sometimes. I recently installed a system in my 88 Gl station Wagon, see link. First off the common ground return for the front/rear speakers needs to be eliminated. All the new head units can compensate for this but it could damage your nice new head unit. The cheap way to fix this is to cut the wire on the front speaker ground and just route a new wire to the dash, pretty easy to do. Another good bet is to rewire the whole system. The reason a converter plug is hard to find for these cars is that the common ground is a known issue and the good radio shops won't sell you something that will frick up your new radio. In cases like this its nice to just crimp female 1/4" slides to the dash harness and male 1/4" slides to the stock connector jumper that come with the new head unit. The factory speakers were 10W, paper coned POS. I'd replace them with the new radio. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13063&perpage=25&pagenumber=2 My intallation Anyway, my .02 cents worth.

I recently got this 1988 GL station Wagon. I had the engine out, while out I replaced the front and rear main oil seals (crank shaft). I still have a leak though. One is throgh the oil pan plug, which was fixed last night. However, I still have oil coming down the front timing belt cover. I got the following parts: RH camshaft oil seal - looks like a mini crank oil seal LH camshaft oil seal - looks like a mini crank oil seal I have the main oil pump gasket on order (weird looking one) What seals/gaskets am I missing for the front end? I saw somewhere that there were more seals for the oil pump but the manual dosen't point these out. Any other seals for the cam? I've got the EA82 engine. If someone has the order numbers for an on-line parts company, send me the numbers so I can get the right gaskets. NAPA isn't much help if its not in their computer. They tried to pawn off a couple of wrong parts on me already. Thanks, PS - on the maintance side of the web site it sure would be nice to have a list of stuff like this. Maybe work a deal with an on-line parts company to offer discount seal/rebuild kits for us.

I'll be there around 2. I'll have the maroon 4WD 1988 with roof rack. I guess everyone else will be in Subarus too?

The funny thing is I'm a member of the EAA. I used to be a LongEASY driver. Currently I'm building a Cozy Mk IV. Fellow builders have used Sub engines, hence my interest in the make. I won't be ready to fly for awhile, but till I do, my Subaru's will be saving me money so I can afford one. I think I'm just going to head to NAPA for the parts (oil seals&gaskets) so i can return them if I get the wrong ones.

The GOOD: First gas-up since I swapped trannys. Mostly commuting miles. Put in 12.9g drove 345miles, almost 27MPG? Sound about right? The BAD: Cecked oil again and again it dropped. Looked real close last night and there is oil coming from the oil pan drain, will replace that next oil change. However, I still have oil leaking out the front cover. I changed the ruined front oil seal when I pulled it. What else gives? Is it possible to change the cam seals and oil pump seals without pulling that engine? I only did the front and rear crank seals and the valve cover seals. I read some old post that I should have also replaced a couple of cam seals and oil pump seals? I don't have a manual yet for this model, so I've got no illustration to go off of. Also, I was on-line at parts express, what are the right part numbers and quantities I need? I'm not in a rush, but would like to have all the RIGHT parts when I decide to dive after this problem.

Nevermind. I just went to BYB and saw what PK stood for. I'm a dolt.... "www.ozified.com is the USA supplier"

I've seen PK mentioned several times in messages about lift kits. Is this a company if so are they on the internet. If not can I have a phone number for them? Thanks,

Either Friday or Saturday sounds good to me. Kinda hard to get muddy in Seattle isn't it? Let me know what the final choice is and I'll be there. You have to say how you got suspended. A few years ago I forgot to pay a speeding ticket, wasn't my best day.

Now that I have a 4WD SUBARU I guess I have something to get muddy too. Wouldn't mind meeting some other Subaru owners in the local area. When and where? I got a portable mini grill.

All right, where do I get the faceplate? I used my mill to enlarge the opening on the original faceplate so I could get it over the radio. Right now it sticks out 3/4", I put black electrical tape over the sheet metal to blend it in. Can I use someones face plate as a mold? I can make a copy out of fiberglass and give it back.

The head unit: Why did I have to stick it out 3/4"?

The woofers:

A couple of installation pictures:

Well, since I got the car tuned in and running with the new 5 speed D/R tranny I decided to focus on the interior. I removed everything, including the door panels, seats, trim, and carpet. I found a couple of places where inspection covers were missing and water got in; looked recent. I made new covers for the inspection plates under the rear bench seats. Anyone know what they are for? I made then out of light sheet metal and stuck them on with roofing caulk. Now I wanted a radio, this car came with a non-working radio. I removed the stock radio speakers, 10W? Wow, now that's cheap. I installed 220W 4-way 6.5" speakers. Made a subwoofer box out of the rear center stowage compartment. Used hinges I salvage from the tranny donor car at PAP, cut a 1/2" thick birch board 12.5"X39", attached the hinges add weather striping to the top of the box cut some holes for the two 10" 600W sub woofers. My XM receiver fit in there too. Added a 4-way high amp sealed connector so I can just unplug and remove the woofer assembly and re-install the sheet metal door in seconds. I've installed a 444W 4 channel amp for the door speakers under the drivers seat, a 760W 2 channel amp under the passenger seat for the woofers. Got an Alpine head unit, Aux input plugs for my MP3/WMA player and XM hooked up. I stuck a low profile XM antenna on the roof near the back. Might not work too well when I got my skis up there. I cleaned the carpet, washed it on my deck by hand several times. Lots of dirt in there. The four hold down screws were all bad so I installed new hold downs. Found a gray interior at PAP to replace a couple of busted trim pieces. Had problems with the radio installation. I had to install it sticking out 3/4". Is there a depth issue with these cars? What can I do to recess it in the dash? My power steering was squealing real bad, a PAP pump fixed that. A new 185/70/13 spare fit nicely under the hood. The test drive with all the interior parts installed reduced road noise so much! After two weks of work I can now start to have fun driving it. What kinda gas milage should I expect to get?

Yep, after getting a 185/70/R13 I got it to fit under the hood. It is tight but fits! I had tried one of my tires but I guess I traped the washer hose because it didn't fit. I also noticed there is a tie down point (fastener) in the trunk area the owner's manual tells you to use for the 185/70/R13 tires. They say in the owners manual it won't fit... Hee, hee..... Thanks for the Beta guys.

Need help here. I thought it was something simple but I couldn't figure this out last night. I just got done with a 3AT - > 5 Speed D/R conversion. Everything works fine. However, when I accelerate and then unload the tranny (push in the clutch) the tranny unloads and bumps the dog house. I can feel it hit and hear the load whump. This only happens when I pop the clutch fast, when I shift smooth its fine. I checked the tranny mount and its nice and snug, but I can push the tranny up and down a bit. All three engine bolts are tight too? The rear tranny shifter support is tight also. Anything else that could cause this?

I have the ultimate kill switch. I work of Kenworth as a electrical and power train engineer. I ran a project where we installed LVD's (Low Voltage Disconnects) into our trucks. They disconnect non-vital battery loads when the trucks is off. Example: coffee maker, dome lights, fridge, acc outlets. This way the truck can start in the morning if the guy falls asleep watching a movie. I hooked one up to my car's main cab feed (not starter, too high a current current). I rewired the head lights so they are always on now. I reset the LVD for 12.5 volts. After three mintuets the LVD shuts off the power to the entire car. I ran a seprate circuit to provide power to a momentary reset switch in the dash. It's made to look like a fog lamp switch. You have to hold this momentary switch down for 10 seconds to reset the LVD. Afterwhich you have three minutes to start your car, if not you have to reset the switch again. With the key in the IGN position, the LVD is over-ridden and can't turn off loads. The same circuit I use to override the LVD I ran to my sterio and clock, so the LVD would not disconnect those loads. The guys at the tire shop were very impressed by this stealthy security device. Anyone wnat one I can tell them where to buy it and draw up a system diagram to show you how to wire it up. The device is sealed and good for under hood use (semi-truck, 300K miles) I'll even tell you the secret so you can raise the voltage setpoint. They sell them only at 12.0V and 12.3V. No harm comes to a battery if it cycles down to 12.5V, 12.3V just a little bit.

I’d like to announce that my 1988 GL Automatic Station Wagon is now a 5 speed D/R. It’s done and running!!!!!!!!!!!! Time for: I got a hub from PAP yesterday. Since it was close to closing, I pulled the control arm, drive shaft, rotor and hub as one piece. Stupid me took it off a turbo, I know dumb; I forgot the output shafts of turbos were larger. At home I had the time to unstick the drive shaft from the hub and also unstick the control arm off the ball joint. I was in a rush at PAP and I didn’t want to damage these parts. Got the hub cleaned and repacked with grease. Installed my old brake rotor and assembled at my bench the drive shaft from the “TURBO” car. Oh yeah, this gets better! When I slid the drive shaft over the output shaft of the tranny I thought to myself, “Man what went on smooth and easy!” Installed the spring pin, put on the tires, lowered the car. Found I had to rip the position switch off the automatic shifter, attach it to the harness and move the switch until I got the “P” to light up in the dash before I could start the car. It sparked up just fine; I let it run ten minutes. I shut it off, burped the coolant and checked fluid levels. Then I took her for a spin. As I went up my driveway, I heard a pop and a very BAD noise. Shut it down and rolled back into the garage. Total distance on maiden drive: 25’. :mad: I looked at that “TURBO” drive shaft and said many a fine word. The spring pin had sheared and the “TRUBO” drive shaft had put a couple of small nicks into the splins of the output shaft. Now, the night was still young. I had the original drive shaft with the seized wheel bearing on it. I knocked off the outer race and removed the ball bearings. Put the axle in my vice, pulled out the torch and heated the seized inner race. Got it nice and warm and was able to get it pushed high enough to let my gear puller finish the job. Polished up the shaft with emery cloth (scorched grease) and installed the non-TURBO drive shaft. The car’s second maiden drive was a little longer: 15.9 miles. 4WD LOW & HI work fine. :banana: ***IT RUNS PERFECT*** :banana: Brought her back in for some quick adjustments: adjusted the throttle and clutch cable, fixed a vacuum leak, she idles fine now. That engine just hums a sweet tune. However, the power steering pump whines a bit. Drove it to work today. Have to put the transmission switch into “D” to engage the cruise control, need to install a switch on the clutch pedal to disengage the cruise control if you shift. Also, need to figure out how to get the backup lights to turn on. Now I’m looking for a spare tire and new alternator bracket.

Don't have a spare. What is the size that came with the car so I can pick one up at the junk yard? What's the largest tire that can fit in the compartment? Model 1988 Gl Station Wagon.

Attached is a picture showing the two gauge clusters. The 1985 5 SPD cluster has a different conector (top right) then the 1988 gauge cluster. Anyone know if a 1988 5 SPD cluster has the right connector (top right) or is this a auto/5spd difference. I also found out that the engine harness was common, 3AT/5SPD, but different instrument panel harnesses were used for an auto. Too much bother to change this out.

UPDATE on my conversion..... :D My 1988 Subaru: I got the engine and tranny back into the car. I reused the pressure plate and clutch. Only .4mm was worn off the clutch plate. The flywheel was true and the pressure plate had only a little wear. The hardest part was pulling the steering column. I’ve got a tilt wheel and cruise control; lots of connectors, wires and vacuum lines. The new pedal assembly went in real easy. The shifter opening for an automatic is the same size as for a manual. I didn’t have to cut anything to make the swap, even had the extra bolt for the bump stop! After the linkages were attached to the tranny the rubber seal mated perfect with the opening, was super easy to bolt on the shifter bracket inside the car. I used the manual tranny support out of the donor car. You have to reroute the left brake line to install it. I’ve got to look at another 5 spd to figure out the new routing, I’m worried about chaffing. I had to remove a brake line support. I installed the old automatic tranny support, minus the tranny mounts. I don’t know if it is required to stiffen the body, but I figure it can’t hurt. It was hitting the bump stop on the shifter, so I had to cut a small clearance notch. This car had a 3.900 rear diff. I didn’t need to replace it. The back of the diff has a label plate with the gear ratio written on it. What do people use to open the fill and drain ports? A ½” drive is too small. Is this a custom tool? Wiring: I wired extensions to the manual transmission. The connectors were the same, just didn’t reach. The gauge cluster connections were not the same for the manual. This could also be because the cluster I had was from a 1985 whereas my car is a 1988. I also had to clean up the wiring going to the battery. Neglect on the previous owner in this department, and because the battery hold down bracket is missing. I think Subaru has the worst hold down design in the automotive market. I’m going design a better one. Gauge Panel: Will look for a 1988 Gauge cluster and see if it has the right connections. My EA82 Engine: Replaced the timing belts, oil seals, oil pan gasket (what a mess this was) and valve cover gaskets; these were so old, exhaust gaskets. Will flush the radiator when I get it running. R-Front Drive Shaft: The R drive shaft has the inner wheel bearing seized on the axle. It came out of the hub when I pulled the drive shaft. I have a small press and I still couldn’t get the bearing off the axle?!?!? Thought of heating it but that would burn the boot. What the heck caused this?!?!?!? Anyway, back to PAP for a drive shaft and hub. :banghead: