legacy2.5

do you have a fax # not an email

there is a diagnostic procedure, basically you have connect the abs connector to the diagnostic connector, do you have access to a fax machine? i could probally fax the info

blitz, i was not referring to your comments. you seemed to understand what i was getting at. i was glad you were able to help get across what i was trying to say. if you read through the whole thread on this topic, you will see what i mean.

i will check today(monday) when i get to work, i need to look in the manual, mine is at work.

i will check today(monday) when i get to work, i need to look in the manual, mine is at work.

thank you, blitz. sorry i could not explain it better. i know from experience about removing the fuel cap relieving pressure from the system. almost want to say that instead of some people doubting what others say on this forum, listen more. i know i try not to steer anyone in the wrong direction on this forum. i try to use my experience to help some others, and in the process hopefully learn more. i have been saying since the first post's on this topic to try removing the hoses with and without removing the fuel cap. certian people on here like to go by "theory" not how it really works. theory always works out on paper, but not in the real world. i never said i knew exaclty how come removing the cap relieves pressure, i said i knew this from years of working in the automotive field.

i am saying that as fuel is being used from the tank, something needs to occupy the area where the fuel "was", air replaces the missing fuel. this air, ambient temp., and vapors from the fuel create a pressure in the tank. when you remove the fuel cap you relieve the pressure in the tank. you hear this pressure relieve when you open the fuel cap. this pressure is the same pressure that would make gas spray all over when you remove a fuel hose off the filter. removing the gas cap relieves this pressure, which in turn keeps gas from spraying all over when you change your fuel filter. just try it on your own vehicle, most subaru filters are easily accessible.

if your abs light was on, then there is a chance that you have a stored code in the abs control unit. pull the stored codes to help in your diagnosis

i know a few people with off-road type vehicles and the have been "painting" the lower half of their vehicles with the same type of product that people use for spray bedliners, which i believe you can have tinted different colors. this protects there sheet meteal from rocks and debris. just type in spray bedliners on your search engine. there is a company in wisc. that has been doing it for years

reply to frag... think about this, first i assume that your in line fuel pressure gauge is between the fuel rail and the fuel filter. i dont doubt that the pressure in the rail will not go down for an hour. by relieving the gas cap your remove the pressure from the gas tank. you can actually hear it relieve when you open the cap. when gas is taken from the tank it has to be replaced by something (which is air) which builds pressure in the gas, and when you remove the cap, like when you put gas in the pressure relieves. if you tried the test i talked about earlier in this post you would see what i am talking about. i dont know your automotive backround, but i have been a tech for 10 years, went to school for automotive, and i am constantly going back to school. i have worked on import cars for at least 7 years, and work on them everyday. this is a real world situation i deal with every day, and have practiced the "test" i was talking about years ago with the same results, there is hardly any spilled fuel when you remove the gas cap before changing the fuel filter, compared to not removing the gas cap. try it yourself. i have a shop full of 8 techs that all agree, and have been schooled, and even the factory service manuals instruct the technician to remove the gas cap to reileve system pressure. so now you tell me if it does not relieve pressure.

i work on cars every day and removing the gas cap relieves most of the pressure. try it yourself undo the hoses on the fuel filter on a vehicle without removing the gas cap first and you will spray fuel all over when you do so. now try the same vehicle after you reconnected the hose, start the vehicle up, let it run, turn it off and remove the gas cap and then try to remove the hoses and i bet hardly any fuel will spray out, also if you remove the fuel pump fuse, try starting the car, it will peurge the line, then remove gas cap and all the pressuer will be relieved and no fuel will sprurt out....

i would check for power at he bulb, pull the coolant temp sensor wire off while the engine is running and see if the check engine light comes on, it seems kind of wierd that the check engine light bulb is burned out. this would be easier to do, than pulling the dash apart to find out the bulb is okay.

check out another post where i explained about getting a full tranny flush.....

lol

i dont agree with the above thread. i am a technician and i dont know how many cars with over 100,000 miles that still have the original fuel filter. the only wat you can tell if its been changed is by having the maintance history, or have changed it yourself or watched someone change it for you. your fuel pump with not be shrapnel if you filter was never changed, the filter has only to do with filtering the fuel to the injectors. it is after the pump, and does not filter fuel going into the pump, a clogged fuel filter would put strain on the pump, and restrict he fuel going to the injector rail. as far as changing the fuel filter, first remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system. this will help keep fuel from sprayin all over and making a mess. next lossen the clamps, take a pocket srewdriver and lift up the edge of the rubber hose going on to the filter, spray a little carb. cleaner on the hose ends, this will make it easier to remove the hose off the old filter. grab the hose end with pliers ant twist back and forth until they come loose. lossen the clamp screw for the fuel filter hold down and remove the hoses. spray a little silcone on the hose ends to make it easy to slide the hoses on the new filter.

if yor a/c clicks on on off a lot, it is probally the a/c clutch cycling on and off, which is a good indication that you are low on freon and probally have a leak somewhere in the system.

if yor a/c clicks on on off a lot, it is probally the a/c clutch cycling on and off, which is a good indication that you are low on freon and probally have a leak somewhere in the system.

at my dealership that part is called outer door moulding

its pretty simple the hardest part lke eveyone else saysis removing the hoses. from years of experience has been to first spray some rust penatrant on the hose clamps, and the screw for the fuel filter securing bracket, this will remove any corrossion and lubed the threads, making it easier to remove them. then take a pocket screwdriver and pry the end of the hose(s) up a little bit just so you can spray a little carb cleaner on the end of the hoses, this will make it a liitle more plyable to remove it off the nipple of the filter. now with a pair of pliers wrapped with electrical tape one time around the jaws gently start twisting the hose. it should remove easy. upon reassemblly spray a little silicone on the nipples to ease putting the hoses back on.

i have been trained in the field and most manufacturers say that an ac vent temp with the a/c on recirculate full cold position blowing out of the dash (face) vents , on mid-range blower speed is within in specs if the temp. is between 36 and 48 degrees farh.

no problem, anytime you need any help let me know

Check Your Frt. Sway Bar Bushing And Frt. Suspension Components.

1997 2.5 Legacy Gt 23-25 Mpg With Borla Header, Magna Flow Exh. And Some Custom Intake Work

a trans flush is different than a trans service. a trans service just drains the fluid like you were thinking. for the trans flush, you remove one of the tranny cooler lines from the radiator hook up the trans flush machine to the cooler line and one to the cooler nipple from the radiator trans cooler. there is a bottle of cleaner that you add to the old fluid, you run the car till the trans. is at opertaing temp. shift through the gears, turn the machine on which flushes all the old fluid out of the trans. and most importantaly the machine flushes the torque convertor, and the refills the trans with new fkuid and a fluid conditoner. the flush completely removes all the old fluid compared to the drain and fill. it works pretty sweet. i work at the new zimbrick nissan by the east town mall right off the interstate. and my name is jason. the dealership # is 800-554-5937.

we get almost an hour labor plus the flush kit here, i live in madison, wi, and work as a nissan technician. drive on down, i will do the work