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Everything posted by legacy2.5
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first off a/c compressors have a magnetic clutch on them which engages and disengages as needed. it is totally normal for this "cycling" of the a/c clutch, in fact it needs to cycle or the a/c system would freeze up. if your a/c is blowing cold, and there is no visible sign of oil on the refrigerant lines i would say your freon ( not coolant ) is ok. if you can put some gauges on the system it would be real easy to see if your low on reon, which if you are would cause the compressor clutch to engage/disengage more frequently. as far as hearing the clicking type noise of the a/c clutch on subarus the compressor is usually on the top of the motor, and on a lot of other cars it is on the bottom of the motor and it just may be you hear it more on your subaru.
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have you changed the fuel filter ever? it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. have you checked all your fluid levels? has it been running a little warmer than usually? im just trying to see if there are any clues that might lead to something else? have you pulled the intake tube off the throttle body and inspected the butterfly flap for buildup?
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you did not hurt my feelings. no i am not a subaru tech i am a nissan tech. and used to be a honda one. subaru's are just as easy if not even easier to work on than most other japanese cars i have delt with. that sucks that you and others have had bad experiences at dealers, i hear the same things about local shops also. someone not doing there job properly happens anywhere when someone does not take pride in there work. your car was never diagnosed properly and that was not right. it has been my experience that dealer techs take pride in there work and c.s.i. ( customer service index ) is a big part of the job. it does not sound like there is another dealer to close to you, but i can bet there are some good techs there that would service your vehicle right.
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i do not agree that techs. at a dealer are not good at troubleshotting. I dont know if you are a tech. or not, but I am. i have worked at various dealers and used to work at somwe private shops. I work at a dealer now and have for years. i dont know what you are talking about "scan mentality" but we have all the manuals, computers, and factory help to fix problem cars. I dont know how many times i have had to repair cars that a "local shop" could not fix. i dont know if you were burned by a bad tech. at a dealer, but we get all the newest traing, information, and tools to fix vehicles right the first time. dealer prices may be a little higher, but you are paying for the knowledge of the techs. that are trained properly, and use the right parts. we are trained to know these vehicles and a lot of people dont like to think that a part wearing out, and not performing to specs, can diversely affect other parts, and performance of a vehicle. I would highly recommend a dealer or someone who specializes in subaru, because they have more of a chance, and materials at hand to fix the problem.
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there has to be a special tool to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt. I would not try a chain wrench, maybe a strap wrench?? Does your cam pulley have a large nut shape built in to it? Not the bolt, but on the pulley itself? When I get home from work I will check out some info am=nd get back to you.
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take a breaker bar with the right size socket on it, put it on the crank with the handle of the breaker bar lying on the frame right in front of where the battery is. when this is done, tap the key once and this will loosen the crank bolt. tghe motor turns in a clockwise direction so putting the handle of the breaker bar by the battery will make the crank bolt loosen from centrifugal force. any more questions i can help with.
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just replaced my leaking crank seal, water pump, timing belt, and lower frt. cover seal, cam seals were not leaking, and i have 90,000 miles on my 97 legacy gt 2.5liter. I left the am seal alone because they showed no signs of seapage. I did the job at the shop I worked at and it only took about 2 1/2 hours with air tools, and no specialty tools. I changed the t-stat, heater and radiator hoses. No more oil leaking at this time. It was a lot easier than I expected.
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if the engine in your car has forged aluminum pistons it will make a knocking/tinging type noise until the pistons have warmed up all the way. This is a normal noise for aluminum pistons. I have spoke to subaru techs about this, and read the service bulletins given out to subaru techs. I have also spoke to other non-subaru car owners with the same kind of pistons, and they all note some noise from there engines until warmed up all the way. I live in wisc. and the noise is definetly more present and longer in the winter.
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i just found oil leaking out of my front cover also. I am a tech. by trade and just recieved my 4 camshaft seals, a crank seal, a new timing belt, and water pump. You will probally need the same. While i am in there i am also replacing radiator and heater hoses, and t-stat. leaking oil inside the cover will get on the timing belt since you said you were going to change the t-belt, the seals wont be that bad. I am doing the job on monday and let you know how it goes if you would like. I can try to answer any questions you have.