zartman456

After tearing half my car apart I found the ecu. It was in the trunk which is also where the green connectors were. Not quite under the steering column lol. Now I just have to fix this pesky oil pump leak...

Thanks for the tip. Where would I locate the connectors that I plug together to set the timing? I really hope that is my problem

Another update. I took your advice on the timing belt covers, and your right soo much easier to mess around with the timing! I have the mechanical timing dead on but am having trouble with getting the dizzy lined up. The car runs better than before which means I was probably a tooth off. I have read the manual over and over and it says get the gears at the 45 degree angle as specified in the manual, no problems there, but when I line the mark on the dizzy with the mark on the gear and drop it in, depending on how it drops in I have the dizzy at either full advance or full retard to run right. I pulled that thing a dozen times and there is no happy medium... I drove it every way I could possibly adjust it, and still have that loss of power.... I am running out of ideas.

Yea I definately need a good set of manuals. On the topic of removing the timing covers I actually didn't have them on at first and decided I better put them on to keep them from the elements. Man I wish I kept them off!

When your timing is a tooth off, does the car idle like it has lumpy cams? If thats the case, I am a tooth off. The whole car shakes and there is a huge loss of power.

UPDATE! I now have fuel, spark and it starts and idles nice. 2 areas of concern tho... My black fuseable link started smoking while the motor was running and when I rev the motor it just doesnt sound right, its cutting out. Also I noted while I was loosening the dizzy and messing with the timing I could see the dizzy sparking to the bolt? I tried traceing the fuseable link but had no luck

One other quick question, where is the ecu located? Couldn't find any info in the manual and I looked briefly under the dash with no luck...

Get the ol' maaco special

Your definately onto something here. Looking good so far, can't wait to give it a shot on mine

I have an early mpfi flapper door turbo. The harness the goes to the disty runs from the pass side of the engine bay and splits off to a ground and knock sensor then from there 4 wires go into the disty and 2 from the disty to the coil. Sorry if that got confusing. I am hoping its just the fuse to the ecu like the other guy said above. Also, sonicfrog, thanks for your suggestions I will update when I get home to take a look at it.

Great, Ill check it tonight and see what happens. Thank you!!

UPDATE: I found the missing wire to the - side of the coil now I have spark but I can't hear the fuel pump at all. The weird part is if I take a wire from the - of the battery and jump it to the - side of the coil I hear the pump kick on??

I just got finished rebuilding and installing my ea82t and when I went to fire it up there was no spark. When I took the running motor out last year, well there was spark because it was running. When the key is on, I am not getting 12v to the coil + and -. If I take a wire and jump from the - on the battery to the - on the coil I get a spark which means the coil is atleast good. What wire on this motor triggers the coil to fire? I have 2 wires coming from my dizzy and I have no idea where they go (black white stripe and black yellow stripe) I am stumped as I know very little about these cars, and after reading every no spark thread on here and reading the entire manual, I have to break down and ask for help. Thank you in advance

Bump for an answer to the last post. I am having the same issue...

And that adds up to 48 cracked heads.

Whats gonna blow first? My head from reading this or his head from 18psi on the stock turbo?

Correct I am talking about the ea82T. I never thought about the sticker under the hood giving me the info..duhhh

Thank you both very much! lol on the 3at comment. I should just use it as a paperweight and get a manual tranny. On the subject of filling the torque converter, is there a measured amount, or just fill to the top and install? I appreciate the heads up on the tc install, I will make sure I get it all the way in, sounds like that could go wrong and tear some stuff real quick.

Do you have lots of bubbles when the reservoir overflows? That is one of the side effects of a blown head gasket that I had on my car

I have one of the Xt's that was built during the 86-87 transition. Mine was built in 09/1986. I have the flapper door maf and 3at transmission, so I am not sure half the time if I should search for info on 86's or 87's. The service manual I found during a search is for 1989 model year, so the basic info is there but its not precise to my car and I would like to verify the following. 1. What should I set my timing at, I think the book has the 1989 at 20 deg. 2. When I removed my motor, I pulled off my torque converter and drained it, when reinstalling the converter do I have to fill it with fluid or will it fill itself when I change the trans fluid and start the car? I should use atf dextron II right?? and I think it was around 7qt. 3. I am also changing my front and rear diff fluid. I have read several threads where people recommend I think it was 75w-90 gear oil? The manual has a range and they also state it should be gl-5. How much oil do I need to purchase to change the oil in both diffs? Thanks in advance Grant

Now I understand. Thank you for breaking it down for me. The pcv valve in boost was going to be my next question but you already nailed it. Grant

Found it on subaruxt.com Thank you!

Thank you. I work about 3 minutes from long arm and live in New Oxford. Nice to see some local people on this board.

I knew the ea82 jokes would be coming soon. Well the ea82t made it 135,000 miles the first time so I would expect the same if not more. If the crankcase vents out of the valvecover vents I am still trying to figure out why I would need vacuum from the engine to pull the oily air out. The crankcase would be pressurized right?

Even tho my engine is being rebuild as we speak, I figured there will still be a small amount of blowby that would force the gasses out of the head vent. Guess I was wrong. Does the ea82t even have a crankcase vent? I swear the pcv system I saw ran from the pcv valve and connected it to the drivers side valvecover vent then connected that into the maf to turbo rubber pipe. Thank you for your input