horton316

How about you just call it what it is a suspension lift or a body lift. in the subaru world a body lift is the way to go but if you have a full framed truck a body lift is cheap and for looks and a suspension lift is the way to go. for some reason there are so many people on this forum that are just so argumentative. i work on cars for a career so i dont really have time to know everything about 20 yr old subarus so i come here to find tidbits of information from people who obsess about subis, dont get me wrong or anything they are the only car i would ever own but in the real world of auto repair and diagnostics you probubly know alot less than you think you do, but thats ok. sorry this has nothiong to do with the tread just getting a little annoyed about the arrogance

if you have experience using a dvom (volt meter) this is what to do. lets just start by me assuming here the engine is not turning over when you say wont start. step one set your dvom to d/c volts, step two black lead to neg battery terminal red lead to the large cable on the starter. if there is battery voltage continue on, if not there is a faulty connection or the pos battery cable is no good, battery voltage is 12.6 volts full battery charge. step three black lead to neg bat terminal, red lead to small wire on starter, turn ign to start pos, if there is batt voltage the starter is no good if there is no voltage there is a fault somwhere in the neutral safety switch the ignition switch fuses etc let me know how you make out if you get this far and find nothing post again ill think of some more things to check in the circuit good luck, if it is the starter get a new one and dont try this with a test light you have to use a dvom

if the machine shop can repair the cracks in the cyl heads by all means do it, white smoke only means one thing coolant burning, so by fixing the cracks and new gaskets all possible causes have been taken care of

i have always used the blue permatex for coolant gaskets only a friend of mine used the black on his heads. have you ever used the high temp orange? ive used that in high head situations even exhaust works real well. do what you will but i wouldnt chance a leak there over an 8 dollar tube of rtv have fun

if your looking for maintenance advice, change your fuel filter, clean mass air flow with maf cleaner. the codes will probly be very vauge, unless theres a short somewhere, check on an o2 sensor as well i bet there pretty cheap there only those one wire set ups. the e82 is a gutless wonder anyways so even the smallest issues can give you large drivability problems i would gut the cat too if you live in a state w no emissions good luck

keeping the egr is def the way to go. the e82 pings like a bastard already and eliminating the egr will make it worse, the proper way to route the vacuum hose is from ported vacuum [ vacuum off idle] to the vacuum thermo switch to the egr. distributor can be routed right to ported vacuum , unless its a vacuum retard rather than advance. it depends on how the distributor works. basicly leave it at it was. if you want some more advance you could always get a lower degree thermostat than oe, just dont over advance, if you advance the distributor too far it will ping/ detonation and when you start the engine hot it will be a very hard crank, kind of sound like the starter is going bad , i would not gom more than a few degrees more advance than stock / your lucky to find a d/r gl in az, i used to live near phonix and they were hard to find now i live in massachusettes and the only gl i could find is very very rotten, i need to somehow rebuild the rear suspension, the tube that mounts to the trailing arms is just about gone, i backed into a stump and the trailing arms broke off of that bar lots of fab and welding in my future

im pretty sure i wont be moving any furniture in this thing or bikes for that matter WOULD PROBLY FALL OUT THE BOTTOM!

honestly i wouldnt even bother with the timing belt and trying it , imo i would pull the engine pull the heads and send them to a machine shop to have the valves done and head planed, a good oportunuty to replace the head gaskets that fail on a regular basis , and i believe the rec service interval is 60k but not positive, when ever i buy a subaru its the first place i go, timing belt water pump cam and crank seals just to be safe even on the 2.2 never want to get stuck

ok cool i guess to bad its got more rot than steal but it was free it will make a good winter rig hopefully i can find some bigger 13 in tires, ive done a 6 lug swap on a friends loyale a while ago but this thing isnt realy worth the trouble does anyone know if theres a purpose the the hump other than having 6 ft tall children in the back , i would much rather have a roof rack to put the spare up top but beggers cant be choosers thinking of fabbing up a rear tire carrier like on s10 blazers and what not

i just picked up another subie, my first e82 dr trans totally free any ways this wagon has a hump on the back half of the roof i have never seen befor on another wagon plus its got a oe skid plate. like i said the only e82 ive ever owned so not sure if those options are common or not any input?

realy easy do a leak down test if you dont have a leak down tester there like 90 bucks or borrow one