rendoll911
-
Posts
48 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by rendoll911
-
looks like the CV axles are rebuilt subaru axles (green inner hub) so i don't think that's the problem. Also, the tire doesn't wiggle when i manually torque it with my hands.
-
Would the axles make noise going in a straight line though? I always thought bad axles usually made noise when turning.
-
There's no code/ check engine light. Wouldn't the ECU notice a failing knock-sensor? The only code i have is the dreaded torque bind AT code which happens intermittently
-
The front differential gear oil is clear and full according to the dipstick, I won't have a chance to drain it for a few days though. The front axles are new and the boots are in good shape The timing belt was just replaced by the previous owner, I assume the timing tensioner and pulleys were replaced as well, but maybe not. The mechanic did not replace the cam seals which are now leaking, so you can never be sure. Could oil leaking on the timing belt cause it to slip/ lose timing?
-
The car is also leaking transmission fluid and oil where the engine meets the transmission, and leaking oil from under the timing belt cover.
-
It's hard to tell exactly because the noise can only be produced while driving, but I would say it's central under the hood.
-
The car: 1996 Legacy, 90,000 miles, 4EAT transmission, new plugs at 60k, new fuel filter at 70k. Symptoms: Loud metal on metal clanking sound when driving up steep hills. The sound is like the sound of a crinkling can but repetitive. Only happens up hills when RPMs are slowing because of increased load from road grade steepening. If I let up on the gas the sound stops and if I floor it and the transmission shifts down the sound stops. The sound is audible with the windows up and is very loud. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart! I just bought the car and used 87 octane on the first fill. The second tank i used 93 octane and am still getting the sound when pushing a bit uphill. Anyone have any idea?
-
The red piece is in about 15 different pieces so, glue isnt an option. I'll be checking ebay for starters. Everyone be careful removing rusted on battery cables!
-
While attempting to replace the worn contacts in my Denso starter I shattered the red plastic plate that the contacts sit on. Its this red plate here (borrowed picture): : I believe this happened when removing the battery cable from the starter. The cable twisted instead of the nut holding it in place. The nut was binded to copper bolt, which spun the copper contact, therefore shattering the brittle red plastic plate. Anyways, does anyone know if the plastic piece is replaceable? I can't find it on any part lists and my dealership doesn't sell it. Also, would the starter still be functional without it? I'd hate to have to buy a new starter because of a stupid piece of plastic. Thanks!
-
Thanks for the advice!
-
So i noticed a whirling friction sound coming from my rear wheel. I took off the wheel and unscrewed the caliper lock bolt that you can rotate the caliper on. The bolt came out all wobbly and misthreaded. I just re-installed the misthreaded bolt for now, but im not sure what to do. Do you think this is the cause of the sound im hearing from the back wheel? Can i retap the thread or should i buy a whole new caliper knuckle? Any help is greatly appreciated since im driving across country in 10 days!
-
Just double checked. All the lines are connected. I'll try tieing it into the other strut tower since it seems like its causing engine hesitation when i just block it off.
-
I was thinking i'd do that, but when i block that port it bogs the engine down like its going to stall, then the idle speeds up to save it
-
The problem is my hood shows the diagram for a 99 engine and this is a 96. The diagram on my hood only shows one hose coming from this area.
-
I'm looking to see if anyone can identify this possible missing vacuum hose on the intake manifold. I just noticed it today when i was changing my spark plugs. The engine bogs down when i cover it with my finger, there is vacuum present at this connector. It is the silver vacuum port dead center of the photo. Also there is a vacuum hose directly below this port connected to a vacuum line with a T connector and inline filter. The car is a 99 outback, but the engine is from a 96 legacy. Thanks for any help.
-
a seized slide pin would cause the part of the rotor closest to the hub to wear?
-
hey guys, I am just wondering how long it will take for a new rotor to show signs of contact with the brake pads? I am asking this because I put new rear pads and rotors on my 99 legacy about a week ago, but the rotors only show wear on the inner most part of the rotor (closest to the center of rotor) Could it be that not all the pad is touching the rotor? This was my first brake job so I'm thinking i may have messed up with something. Also i used Advanced auto rotors and pads. This was a hell of first brake job seeing how I snapped one of the bolts holding the hold rotors on. Took 4 hours to drill it out and i rushed to get everything back together so now im worried! any ideas?
-
let me ask one more thing/ bump; i pulled the egr valve to clean it and it is absolutely caked with cabon, so i'm going to clean that with some carb cleaner. But the egr port is also filled with cabon... is there any way to clean that?
-
Let me add one more thing, my car is a 99 outback but i just put a 96 2.2l in so this engine has been sitting around in the junkyard for a while. I'm sure that doesnt help. But i was wondering if i could use the BPT valve from my old 2.5l engine. Is it compatible? Thanks for guidance so far!
-
Yep I have the code. Did the search and checked all the vacuum lines and found that the line coming from the bottom of the BPT into the egr valve had water/ moisture in it. What should i do? ( PS: the valve pin moves under throttle)
-
Hello, been lurking a while to get the information needed to do 2.5 -> 2.2 transplant in my 99 outback. What a great resource! Anyways, I have a quick question about a used 95 2.2 i found in a junk yard. The engine if from a 95 auto with about 150k - $250. I am totally broke so i wanted to do the swap as cheaply as possible, but the engine doesnt seem to be in the best shape. I was doing a little pre swap maintenance and when i pulled the spark plug wires i noticed a large amount of white chaulky powder in the plug socket. Is this something i should be worried about? I havent changed any internal components or gaskets inside the engine. Is this something that warrants an engine rebuild? THanks!
-
any progress on the swap?
-
Where did you find them? junkyard? I'm looking for a head for a 99 2.5