99ImprezaOSport

LOTS OF ELBOW GREASE Some spray on parts cleaner/brake cleaner. Real "eco-friendly" stuff that I actually had to move away from being inside my engine compartment a few times.

I'll have to get under the car to check the linkage this weekend. I have 195,000 and by "clutch test" I'm guessing dropping into 5th gear at idle, stops the engine. The clutch is strong in all gears but sometimes in 4th during deacceleration or coasting it pops out of gear. It is not a loud pop or anything. It's as if the shifter has too much play (front to back) and it "slides" out of gear. In my previous statement, "I do notice that it seems as if I can pull/push the stick back a little further than I can into other gears without pressing the clutch" so perhaps it shift linkage?

I'm having 4th gear pop-out while driving. This does not happen in any other gear. I do notice that it seems as if I can pull/push the stick back a little further than I can into other gears without pressing the clutch, perhaps just coincidence since 4th is a direct pull back? I recently, 7-8k miles ago, did a head job, rear engine seals/covers, ACT clutch (SB2-HDSS) & flywheel (600185), throw out bearing, etc... I'm figuring maybe the linkage is loose?, though this only happens in 4th. It only recently started in just the last 1k miles. The clutch is rock solid. Are there any "know" 4th gear problems, linkage problems, etc...?

I recently did a head job on a 99 2.2L Impreza OBS. when I took the engine out baffle plate looked in better shape (leakwise) than the rear main. The rear main was leaking. I ended up replacing both. I used the old seal to tap in the new one. I noticed there was about 3/8" of space between the back of the seal and the actual oil drain? I tapped mine in about 1/32" of a inch beyond flush. Mine is not leaking. before clean-up: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20027.jpg after: http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999SubaruImprezzaOB%20032.jpg As for parts, it seems once the engine was out everything was EASY. Replace anything that seems or would be a pain replacing with the engine in... a few extra dollars now might avoid a lot of extra time later. BTW I documented the entire process... http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car

I just took out my 99 Impreza OBS horn and it was marked with 110 dB... replaced it with something a little louder... Seems the 110dB wasn't loud enough or people just don't seem to care...Hopefully now I don't get sued for giving heartattacks

Here is what I noticed / checked ... still scratching my head I jumped the compressor clutch running low under 25 L side added 3/4 can of 134a running 40-45 A/C cold I disconnected the jumper, reconnected the single clutch wire. Miracles, the clutch kicked in, everything is looking fine. I checked for leaks, nothing. I turned off the car & back on, started the A/C nothing. I jumped the clutch again, L side 40-45 as before, A/C cold. Reconnected the single wire clutch nothing. I figured I could run a couple wires and place a toggle switch inside but don't know what problems that might cause... Do both fans always kick on or only with A/C?

Fuses checked, where is the low pressure switch? I also read about "jumping" the clutch by placing a jumper from the battery to the clutch, should I need to place a fuse in the jumper?

OK, I had great air conditioning until the end of last year. Well with temps on the rise it's time to get this fixed. The AC clutch does not engage even when system is charged. Should I be getting some charge (electric) to the AC compressor connectors? or is this controlled by something else? I read somewhere that there is odd problem with the connection with the ECU, causing the AC to not engage? Anyone know about this? which pins to check?

After my recent work on my car, I have the "I need some more" bug. Any suggestions on either bolt on or other Mods? Any suggestions appreciated. Looking for some more pep. The only aftermarket mod currently is an ACT lightened flywheel and clutch kit.

I must say, while you have the engine out, spend a little extra time and a few extra dollars and do whatever preventive type maintenance you can. I recently had to repair my #2 & #4 Head so in went a new clutch, lightened flywheel, baffle plate & rear main (I was wondering why the clutch was slipping every now and then) Unfortunately both were leaking. The plate actually looked better than the rear main. Oil Pan, the list goes on... Anyway, If it helps at all, I have complete pics of the job at: 1999 Impreza OB Sport 2.2L EJ223

Ok I recently did a head & clutch job on 1999 Impreza OB Sport 2.2l EJ223. For the most part everything went smoothly, except for the lost down time. I set the valves before the engine was dropped back into the car. On the first start the engine started right up, I mean right up. Clean, quiet, and absolutely no smoke. then after a few minutes the tick, tick, tick started. I figured with all the changes to the heads, there must have been some seating and normal break-in. I drove the car for a week and then readjusted the valves, BTW the driver side is quite a tight fit getting the VC off. Anyway, when I reset the valves I set them down to min specs. (Spec is .2mm in .25mm ext +- .02), I went with .18mm in .23mm ext) Well the engine is quieter, though I feel the valves are still ticking a little too, much =] I've got 190K on the car and using 5w-30 valvoline. I had the heads done at a well respected machine shop, which of the heads I have had done before the job looked top notch. They recommended what to replace, 8 valves which got bent (timing belt broke from idler pulley bearing seized) or were worn. While I was doing this job I also replaced: Clutch Kit - ACT Performance Street Disk SB2-HDSS Lightened flywheel - ACT Streetlite Xact Flywheel 600185 Oil Separator Plate *Aluminum* Rear Main, yes unfortunately both the rear main and Baffle were leaking. Oil Pan gasket (Ultra Grey) Idler Pulleys Water Pump Cam seals Head Gasket Sets Timing belt covers & Seals Plugs & Wires Lots of elbow grease The car previously was quiet, even with all those miles. Other than the valves the car runs strong, Should I run it for another 1k and readjust? Is there a way to retrofit hydraulic valves on these heads? Like the commercial says, set it and forget it =] Suggestions for the ticking valves or possible other problems I might have overlooked? Complete Job in pictures is at: www.edwardsatterfield.com/car

OK, first, car: 1999 Impreza Outback Sport 2.2L EJ223 Last response I was so frazzled I forgot to list the car... Anyway, OK so I had a timing belt break after an Idler Pulley bearing locked up. Lose of compression in cylinder 2 so a few valves got bent but other than that I didn't lose an engine. I got the heads rebuilt at a reputable machine shop. I completed assembly of the engine and checked my valve clearance, 3 times. Intake 0.20 Exhaust 0.25 mm that is… So I finished up, I went to start it up and FIRST time it turned right over, smooth, clean, quiet, and no smoke what so ever. Which of the half dozen or so heads I’ve done (VW, Datsun, Lincoln) I always had some smoke at first. After it ran for a minute or two there was the start of the tick, tick, tick. Is it common on Subaru’s to have to readjust the valves? Just settling? Like I said I checked the valves 3 times before dropping the engine back in, figuring what a pain to get to the valves. The car runs strong, no smoke, great responsiveness. I figure on running it a couple days and readjusting the valves. Is there anything I might be missing? BTW thanX everyone for the responses, great forum

1999 Imreza Outback Sport... Oops... Rushing trying to get things finished. I have remote entry so I figure I need to set that?

Rebuilt engine first start flasher flash 30 times then pause and then repeat... What do I need to do? Enter a code? stomp my foot three times?

I'm doing a head job & clutch / Flywheel on a 1999 Imreza Outback Sport 2.2L I was installing the rear main seal and ended up having the seal sitting in 1/16 or less from flush? I noticed there is plenty of room behind the seal for oil passage... Any possible problems with it sitting in a little? BTW I'm documenting everything, when I'm done I'll post a link to all the pictures

OK well the timing belt that broke indeed lead to some damaged valves. I've been following the shop manual and everything seems to be pretty much to a T, except one header bolt came out. I've been taking a bunch of pics and will provide a link and full description when I get the time. Anyway, attached are two photos of the tops of the pistons. For 180K it seems they have nice carbon build up. I figure to clean them off, any suggestions on what to use? Do any of these pistons show signs of other problems? Also the bolt for head 2-4 lower right (letter B in the manual) was completely covered/corroded perhaps some water leaking into that area? A typical 2.2 thing?

OK replaced the norm, idler, tensioner, main seal, water pump, etc... Seems the number two? Driver side front cylinder is not holding compression. So valve job. How long can I drive on 3 cylinders? or should I not even try it? So should I do both heads or just the problem side? Do I need to take the engine out? or should I be able to do this with the engine in? I already have a ACT replacement clutch SB2-HDSS and Xact Flywheel so if the engine needs to come out, no better time than now to do the clutch work.

I got this from an endwrench article, "T-Belt Time All About OHC Timing Belts" http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

187k miles on the car, I do not know if it was ever replaced. This is my first Subaru and upon reading more and more there are some things I would do differently. I was a vDub GTI A1 fan for years but really enjoy the 4WD. Nothing like punching it on a slick or loose surface and powering through =]

endwrench.com Spring 2005 states: "Unlike most other Asian engines, Subaru 1.8L and 2.2L engines are freewheeling — no bent valves if the belt should break." Is there a glimmer of hope?

Today as I was coming off an exit ramp at about 45mph I heard a "pop" sound and saw something that looked like a black bushing through my rearview mirror. When I heard the noise, instinctly, I hit the clutch and got over to the side of the road. After a quick check nothing seemed out of ordinary and I tried to crank over the engine. I heard the engine kicking over but it wouldn't start. I did not continue since I figured something "serious" might be wrong. On further investigation I noticed one of the timing belt cover plugs was missing. And with my magnet catch all I found some plastic/metal shavings and some graphite? bearings. Due to the lack of light I needed to stop investigating but to keep worrying and pacing. I figure that I've blown one of the belt idlers or tensioner. I have not had the time to take the cover off to see whether the belt broke but figure if one of them blew the belt probably got chewed up. Either way, I have a 1999 Impreza Outback Sport which was manufactured in 7/98 so: Is in my engine the interference Phase 2 EJ22? In all likelyhood is the engine trashed or atleast valves bent? Has anyone broke a timing belt and not had internal damage with the EJ22 Phase 2? Worse case scenerio... Anyone have a good used engine, maybe like new WRX STi I could easily swap out =]