99ImprezaOSport

So I have a/c Clutch issues and figured replacing the whole compressor unit would be good, over 10yrs and 210k and while I'm at it should replace the drier and expansion device. So some questions: Currently the system is still charged and I'm thinking I should get the system emptied? Replace the A/C parts and the return to get the system vacuumed and recharged? Is the vacuuming really needed or will the system compensate? And as for recharging there are plenty of over the counter options. I would like the new system to work well for some years and not have to recharge or replace parts over and over again. PS As for getting parts in Italy... I would happily purchase A/C parts and ship over parts to Italy, but not any chemicals which might not pass through customs. I got a rebuilt Calsonic A/C Compressor, dryer, oil, and expansion device for around $300

Romper, bomper, stomper boo. Tell me, tell me, tell me, do. Magic Mirror, tell me today, have all my friends had fun at play? WOW, What interesting, informative, and general environmental trip it's been. I see a lot of regular, helpful, folks posting here (GD, Nipper, gross, fairtax, johnc, etc...) and would just like to add my 2cents from my experiences. As for the Cat problem... I like many others have purchased an aftermarket Cat, but unlike some, I only purchased ONE which I ended up recycling on ebay. So an aftermarket Cat and 2 o2 sensors my problem was not fixed. I purchased a new factory Cat and even with the 2 aftermarket o2 sensors the problem was and still is fixed, 3 yrs and counting. I have to a agree... Toying around trying to correct a problem with aftermarket parts, which we can see is not fixing the problem, perhaps is not a good environmental decision. Even using "anti-foulers" is not a good environmental decision but perhaps passes the ECU and the government emissions, as long as the inspector misses "The beeyootiful SHINY button! The jolly CANDY-LIKE button!" which pops the o2 out. Speaking on the environment, how about this one... during the day, instead of keeping your headlights on, which generate a ton of heat, leave them off until the light of day leaves us until tomorrow. How much heat is generated every day from people that keep thier headlights on?

I have a 99' Impreza Wagon, would the same hold true for using Forester Struts/Springs and trailing arm brackets?

To be exact I found it: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_59/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_2/

Rustaru... I agree with using an air impact, if you have good air pressure and a nice impact, otherwise a 3' breaker with a pipe added. Last weekend removing and installing my new 2004 trans in my 1999, I had a few stubborn bolts/nuts. First though I would soak those bolts and area with some penetrate. I have NEVER broken a bold off using: but there are others like AeroKroil, etc... Now before I do any repair I usually try to spray the night before and day of in helping ease those rusty parts...

1999 Impreza OB Sport 5mt Ok, so I must say the new tranny from a 5mt 2004 is SMOOTH. It would have been nice to have have some help removing and replacing but overall not too bad. OK so I've got a little rub/click noise popping up occasionally and not all the time when I shift gears. It seems like something with the linkage. WELL, when I was removing the tranny I NEVER saw any little spring on the gear shift , which brings me to another question on replacing the tranny in the first place, but first: So I noticed that there should be a little spring for the gear shift I figure since there is no tension on that washer that that is probably smacking around. Is that little spring all that important? So now to that other topic: I was losing 4th gear in the tranny, 4th started popping out on occasion and progressively got worse. If that little spring broke would have that been the start to all my FUN, I enjoyed this past weekend?

thanX gary... I'll look at that tomorrow, sounds easy enough besides that one nut you mention. I did notice that the two holding to the rear hanger are quite rusty =] ... Rustaru

I'm in the process of replacing my tranny and figured while I have the thing up I should replace the rear differential cover gaskety since it looks as if it's leaking... moist around the edges, though not near the drive axles... Anyway, Do I have to rip apart the whole rear suspension to get access to remove that cover? I look around on the nessage boards but did not find anything... thanX

Google "Subaru drum brake" I found numerous pictures which should help...

Does anyone have access to VIN reports or where I might be able to find one free. I know I can check carfax.com and autocheck.com. Vehicle Summary We found 9 records for this vehicle. VIN: JF1GG65564G818563 Year: 2004 Make: Subaru Style / Body: Wagon 4D Engine: 2.5L H4 MPI Country of Assembly: Japan Model: Impreza TS I recently purchased a tranny and got the VIN # and just wanted to check to see what happened to the car... The tranny is off of a 2004 Impreza TS 5-speed manual with 34,000 miles as per the junk yard.

I've found this information and have been told to list it here too... Transmission identification codes start with a "T" and an example would be: TY856WB1AA "T" = transmission code "Y" = that it is a manual awd gearbox "85" = the transmission classification...in the case of manual gearboxes this number indicates the gear shaft spacing in millimeters. 6-speed transmissions use an 85mm shaft spacing while the current generation of 5-speed transmissions use a 75mm shaft spacing. "6" = some reference to the transmission case. "6" is used for 6-speeds, "4" is used for 8-bolt 5-speeds, "2" for 4-bolt Impreza 5-speeds, "5" for Forester 8-bolt 5-speeds, "3" for 4-bolt Forester 5-speeds, and "7" for some Legacy turbo 8-bolt 5-speeds. "W" = transmission specification. "W" is 6-speed, "V" is 5-speed, "Z" = AT with MPT, "Y" = AT with VTD, etc. "B1AA" = indicates various details about the equipment such as center diff. type, front LSD, etc. and also about minor production changes.

So my question is...??? OK, so I've found a tranny which is off a 2004 Impreza 2.5 TS which has the same 3.900 rear, per opposedforces.com From the pictures I've seen it looks exactly like mine, connections, etc... I do notice that the 2004 has a hydraulic shifter but the I can swap out the cable one I have... Does anyone know if this one will work? I have a 1999 Impreza Outback Sport 2.2 I have a TY754VA1AA tranny with a 3.900 rear. The one I've found is a TY754VC5AA. The gears are geared a little different but both are near matches including the 3.900 rears US Impreza EJ22 MY99-01 TY754VA1AA 3.545 - 1st 1.947 - 2nd 1.366 - 3rd 0.972 - 4th 0.780 - 5th 3.333 - Rev 1.000 - T.R. 3.900 - F.D. Viscous (4kgf) - Center Diff Open - Front Diff US Impreza TS MY04 TY754VC5AA 3.545 - 1st 2.062 - 2nd 1.448 - 3rd 1.088 - 4th 0.780 - 5th 3.333 - Rev 1.000 - T.R. 3.900 - F.D. Viscous (4kgf) - Center Diff Open - Front Diff Is there something I'm missing? I'm currently still driving with the 1999 tranny and would hate to take everything apart to later find out there is something different or something that will cause problems down the road.

Oh, now someone says something I didn't replace them, though less than a year ago I did when I did the heads. I did have some problem though, it seems those cheap CHINA hose clamps didn't hold for the hose going from the intake down to the by-pass pipe. It ended up leaking pretty bad after a week or so... I ended up going and buying some "real" clamps and they are working like a charm. The top of the engine is dry, I checked today, so hopefully I will not have to take the intake back off and reseal the water pipe

This is just my opinion, I'm sure there are some who agree and others who do not... I must say I like ACT / Advanced Clutch Technology ... I got a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing, and an alignment tool for a decent price. I think I spent about $550 a year ago for everything. First find out what the parts and #'s on http://www.advancedclutch.com and then hunt around online and look for some deals... I just went with their regular street clutch & HD pressure plate. There is no need to go crazy race performance disk. If you like your clutch petal mushey I wouldn't recommend ACT. After replacing mine from a factory one at 180K, it felt like what my VW's I use to have, rock solid.

I've located this information: Transmission identification codes start with a "T" and an example would be: TY856WB1AA "T" = transmission code "Y" = that it is a manual awd gearbox "85" = the transmission classification...in the case of manual gearboxes this number indicates the gear shaft spacing in millimeters. 6-speed transmissions use an 85mm shaft spacing while the current generation of 5-speed transmissions use a 75mm shaft spacing. "6" = some reference to the transmission case. "6" is used for 6-speeds, "4" is used for 8-bolt 5-speeds, "2" for 4-bolt Impreza 5-speeds, "5" for Forester 8-bolt 5-speeds, "3" for 4-bolt Forester 5-speeds, and "7" for some Legacy turbo 8-bolt 5-speeds. "W" = transmission specification. "W" is 6-speed, "V" is 5-speed, "Z" = AT with MPT, "Y" = AT with VTD, etc. "B1AA" = indicates various details about the equipment such as center diff. type, front LSD, etc. and also about minor production changes.

OK, so I've found one better which is off a 2003 Impreza 2.5 TS which has the same 3.900 rear. From the pictures I've seen it looks exactly like mine, connections, etc... Does anyone know if this one will work? I have a TY754VA1AA tranny with a 3.900 rear. The one I've found is a TY754VC2AA. The gears are geared a little different but both are near matches including the 3.900 rears US Impreza EJ22 MY99-01 TY754VA1AA 3.545 - 1st 1.947 - 2nd 1.366 - 3rd 0.972 - 4th 0.780 - 5th 3.333 - Rev 1.000 - T.R. 3.900 - F.D. Viscous (4kgf) - Center Diff Open - Front Diff US Impreza TS MY02-03 TY754VC2AA 3.545 - 1st 2.062 - 2nd 1.448 - 3rd 1.088 - 4th 0.780 - 5th 3.333 - Rev 1.000 - T.R. 3.900 - F.D. Viscous (4kgf) - Center Diff Open - Front Diff

I've found a MANUAL Transmission from a 2007 SUBARU IMPREZA. I'd like to know if this will bolt right up and work in my 1999 Impreza Outback Sport 2.2. They list it'll work with: IMPREZA 2005 M.T., 2.5L, RS, w/o sport pkg IMPREZA 2005 M.T., 2.5L, Outback IMPREZA 2006-2007 M.T., (2.5L), 5 spd, exc. turbo I'm wondering about the rear since mine is a 3.900 and this might be a 4.111. The tranny chart I've found on here and a few other places doesn't list the past few years...

Just an update for the person looking for the answer to my question about replacing that water by-pass pipe. Yes I had to remove the intake, I was able to swing the A/C compressor out of the way without disconnecting any of the pressurized hoses. I also loosed the water pipe which crossed over the engine from the passenger side to driver side. Over all not as bad as taking the entire engine apart but for that stupid pipe to get a pin-hole in it right where they welded on the bracket to hold the pipe down is "BAD" engineering. It's also in a place where you can't really rig it but actually have to replace the pipe. I will have to make a list of what I recommend to replace when you yank your engine to do a head job but I don't have hours right now to complete that list

I broke a belt and ended up having the valves from the 1st and 3rd cylinders getting bent. So rebuilt side halves of the engine... The bottom end was in decent shape I'm not adding any boost or juice so hopefully I'll get another 200k before the bottom goes... I documented the entire thing if you're looking for some encouragement http://edwardsatterfield.com/car/

Those "grumbly grindy noises" I can relate to, though it's been so long since things have been "quiet" Everything seems louder and seem to be grinding. So I have a TY754VA1AA tranny with a 3.900 rear, will other trannies with 3.900 rear gears work or will I have issues with the different drive shafts? I see on the tranny chart numerous 5sp mt with similar gear set-ups and the 3.900 rears. I figure yanking the tranny and replacing will be better than cracking open the tranny to find out what problems I really have... Maybe someone might want my used tranny... I'm sure there are plenty of parts My gearing listed under the TY754VA1AA: 1st - 3.545 2nd - 1.947 3rd - 1.366 4th - 0.972 5th - 0.780 Which seems to better than some others 1st - 3.545 2nd - 2.111 3rd - 1.448 4th - 1.088 5th - 0.780 Though I would like something like: 1st - 3.636 2nd - 2.375 3rd - 1.761 4th - 1.346 5th - 0.971 6th - 0.756

So according to this exploded view where are these 3 plugs? http://www.edwardsatterfield.com/car/images/1999_subaru_5sp_manual_transmission_exploded_view.jpg ah. rear bearing sounds interesting... I do not have this problem at all with any other gear but 4th. I notice that the lower gears are "louder" than they use to be, actually I've notice it getting louder for a couple months. I will check the "grumbly grindy noises" under light throttle and let you know. thanX...

I replaced the tranny oil, not fluid. It's a 5mt. About a year ago I did a valve job since the time belt broke and spit a couple of my #1 & #3 valves into the pistons. The bottom half was good, not much blow-by from the cylinder walls. 185k ... At that time I replaced everything I could think of while I had the engine out including a new ACT flywheel and clutch. I thought I'd be good for a few years So now this problem with four gear not staying in and when it is in 4th it pops out. I've noticed that for all the other gears there seems to be a little "catch" especially if the clutch is not in but when I try to move into 4th with the clutch out I do not feel that "catch" I figure the syncro is shot for fourth but maybe it something else. Either way I pretty much figure the tranny is nearly toast and will need to replace it soon, hopefully I have another tranny to put in and schedule all of this, instead of having to tow it and look for a tranny. I've read several places that I can replace my tranny with others and would like to get a few options/opinions...

I have a 99 Impreza Outback Sport with 4th gear slipping constantly. I've replaced the tranny oil and noticed quite a bit of fine shavings in it. I figure the tranny is nearly the end of it life = Anyway, I need to know besides the exact year model, etc... but what other trannies can I replace my current one?

hmmm... and $40 for the pipe? I purchased one NEW from a dealer for $18.66

Does anyone know the details of replacing the water by-pass pipe? The metal pipe running from the water pump back to the heater with the throttle body off shoot? I recently noticed the off shoot running to the throttle body has spung a couple pin hole leaks. Since I noticed it was rusted I figured replacement would be better than rigging it. I figure I will have to remove the A/C compressor or at least move it out of the way. I need a new A/C Compressor so maybe I should do that as well. haha... Will the by-pass pipe feed through under intake manifold? (finger crossed) I recently (last summer) rebuilt the two top halfs (sides:brow:) of the engine and replaced a ton of parts, of course this by-pass pipe was not one of them.