99ImprezaOSport

So I should be able to free the engine mounts and release the oil pan like my 99impreza?

Yes it is a Turbo... I'll definitely check this oil pick-up tube out.

Great info, thanX again... So keep up the regular maintenance and keep it synthetic... after a blown timing belt I can relate to the if you don't know, don't assume and just replace. Is there a way to check this bolt without removing? Also pull the pan and change the oil pick tube. My brother in law will be having the car for 6-8 months so when I get it which should be around 100k do the timing belt, water pump, oil pick up tube... etc Carfax has a good record of the regular service performed regularly at Subaru dealer. I'm excited so now my 99 Impreza can be devoted more to the toy status

I will be picking up 2005 Legacy GT wagon 2.5 with 5 speed shifty auto. I currently have a 99 Impreza OB Sport with over 250k miles and like most people on here I love my Subaru. I'm looking for some feedback on the 2005, currently it has about 85k and looks in good condition. All the fluids seemed good from oil to tranny gear oil. I test drove it and it ran good, turbo kicked good, etc... Just looking for feedback on this model, problems it might have, issues known for this model, and what Good things this model has too... ThanX in advance for any info, Soon to be dual Subaru owner

I have agree with a slight offset. I taped mine in about 1/32" to 1/16" from flush. I replaced my rear main at 180K and another 30k I was able to get a good look at it when I replaced the tranny. It was dry as a bone in that bell housing. Don't forget to change out the baffle to the aluminum version while you are in there... Some images: Regular size picture of rear main seal and baffle LINK Same image Extra Large LINK

Gees, this one is right up my alley. My personal experience with a lightened flywheel, ACT Streetlite... I currently have 30k on mine. I installed when I did the clutch and valve job. See my link below:grin: for pics. The thing I have noticed are slight but quicker revs. With the performance street disk and flywheel I must say I LOVE direct hook-up. No slipping there... I personally like a nice tight, cough:slobber:, clutch. If you do a lot of city driving you might think about a hydraulic clutch. With the SB2-HDSS "Performance Street Disc" and 600185 "Streetlite Xact Flywheel" for my 99 Impreza OB Wagon I'm completely satisfied.

I'm a little late on this post, but the C-Clamp works great... Here is a picture of a C-clamp holding the timing belt tensioner. and an alley key works, just make sure it is in the right way so you can yank it out once installed

I would not replace just one. If they are interchangeable, I would replace both to keep things nice and even, at least side to side.

Well, that's how it was looking and then I read several places that when you replace the compressor your should replace the drier and even that F'N (Insert other choice words here ) block expansion valve. There is nothing worse than cutting corners and then ending up paying more in the long run. Everything would have been a breeze but the F'N (Insert even more choice words here ) manual said to remove entire "intake" (not the engine intake but the heating-A/C intake under the dash) which is a bunch of BS. That Block Expansion valve could easily be removed without taking out that intake. Anyway leason learned, sometimes the manual is good and other times it should be used as a conversation piece. The system gets charged today. I'll be replacing the drier, placing the v-belt on, plugging everything up, vacuuming the system, and then charging...

The compressor was not bad the clutch on the compressor was bad. I tried to drill and use an ez-out, I broke off two tips of ez outs. I ended up tapping and placing a helicoil into the block... placing a steel screw into aluminum without any thread chase just doesn't make sense, but I know they do it all the time... I realize that without that bolt it will blow off, I also think I would place two bolts on there That bold holds the aluminum bracket holding the two aluminum pipes into the block expansion valve, which has two hex head bolds which bolt it onto the ends of the evaporator. The drier will be replaced, compressor, oil, o-rings, and a new "Fresh" charge. The block expansion valve is like new with the new helicoil

Ah, the joys of seating the heads... and some of them made the craziest of CREAKS when tightening them... Here are a few pics of my heads, marked, and torqued... #1 & #3 Torqued, adjusted, and marked #2 & #4 Torqued, adjusted, and marked Oh yeah and when I removed my head bolts some looked a bit rough and I placed them back in the holes each came from... I don't know if that matters. You should be able to reuse your bolts unless there was some crazy damage...

Here is the "Block Expansion Valve" from my 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport...

Thanks everyone for the words of wisdom. Here is how things actually worked... Replace the compressor, piece of cake. bolt off bolt on, replace o-rings done. Go to Receiver Drier, the pressure switch is not coming off easily (insert explicit words here)... do those switches go bad? I can see the Receiver Dryer needing replacing... Now on to that block expansion valve... what a ROYAL pain to take out, they state in the Service manual to pull the entire intake... after the pain and agony of doing it "their" way... I'm going to tighten the larger and smaller metal hoses back on and "SNAP" there goes the bolt. Does this block really go BAD? The Cheap (insert explicit words here) after market expansion block I purchased actually didn't fit properly so I ended up just keeping the original one on, well sort of... I need to either remove the bolt or get a new FACTORY one The after market one had the round button on the end that was too large to fit in tear drop shaped area... After all that NO A/C yet... and can't you just remove the expansion block while it's on the car? One 10mm bolt and then the 2 smaller hex heads that actually hold the block on... and o-rings of course...

As per the service manual... ... which is always right 2) If the compressor is replaced (after stabilization): (1) Drain and measure the oil from the original compressor. (2) Drain the oil from the replacement compressor and refill with the same amount that was drained from the original [20 m (0.7 US fl oz, 0.7 Imp fl oz) minimum]. Always use DH-PR for the replacement oil. When I do things I generally like to do things right the first time and since I'm not the A/C master I figure it was best to ask now and instead of later.

OK, so first off... the system has been emptied. I need to replace the compressor and when I got the compressor I got the whole "compressor kit" which included the compressor, receiver drier, expansion block valve, oil, and even o-rings for everything. So I see "after replacing component, add the appropriate amount of oil to the new component:" Evaporator 114 m (3.9 US fl oz, 4.0 Imp fl oz) Receiver drier 5 m (0.2 fl oz, 0.2 fl oz) Condenser 2 m (0.07 fl oz, 0.07 fl oz) Hose 1 m (0.03 fl oz, 0.04 fl oz) and for the compressor: (1) Drain and measure the oil from the original compressor. (2) Drain the oil from the replacement compressor and refill with the same amount that was drained from the original [20 m (0.7 US fl oz, 0.7 Imp fl oz) minimum]. Always use DH-PR for the replacement oil. So now the questions: I take everything apart, re: o-ring and place new parts and... add specified oil into each? and should I even drain/add to existing components? Should I drain out the evaporator and refill? Do I just turn over the compressor and drain out of either the H or L side? I've never replaced all these components, just plugged in some additional refrigerant.

thanX, but it is definitely the clock spring or "steering roll connector" since after taking it apart I see mine has "sprung" The main thing I was try to fix was the horn, now I also see why the horn was not working, the cruise control, and I figure the airbag would not work either, at least I have seatbelts.

I have single port heads

JUNKYARD - EBAY - or even HERE since at $200 that is CRAZY :eek: Hmmm... so if the clock spirng only does so many revolutions? hmmm... Since mine is already bad I guess taking it apart will not hurt I had a old Datsun (70's) where the steering wheel had round disk with copper rings around it and there where contacts with springs behind them which made the contacts.

There might be a relay there but I've got juice all the way up to the back of the clock spring and nothing past the clock spring so I have to conclude the clock spring is faulty...

Yes, it is the clock spring... got juice under the dash but nothing under the airbag. If I order a new clock spring does it come with the plugs and wires attached to the clock spring? It looks like the side facing the steering wheel does not come apart easily and the one on the back side of the clock spring looks like it doesn't come apart either since there is neither has any "clip" like most other connectors.

If your flywheel looks like: You should have it machined. Just like having your brake rotors turned. On my latest clutch job I replaced my flywheel with one from ACT, over 30k and just fine... New clutch work pictures

lots of info, thanX everyone. I'll have to look into it more next weekend

OK, during my horn issue I was looking under the dash and if anyone knows ... What are these connections / wires for? Images below A - This wire is broken off the back of the part threaded into the dash cover right below the computer hook-up. B - That red connector near the accessory panel and cruise control C - The Cruise control has never worked since I got the car and the cruise control is disconnected D - White/Blue wire just cut and hanging there...??? E - Green Connector - Would go together easily but it is not connected? F - Greyish Brown - Connector... I do not see anywhere this would connect. G - Two Brown wires coming out of the accessory box wound around and leading to a regular sized square fuse...??? and finally - This grey connector mounted to the heating controls... Me and electric do not work together well. All of these things were as is from the day I got the car. Besides the Cruise Control never working everything did work until a couple months ago and the horn stopped working... Everything is "factory" or "dealer' installed as far as I know.

So first off the horn is not working. I'm not getting juice to the horn, nor any juice inside the steering wheel by the spring mechanism. I check the fuse, and relay but both are fine. The horn is new and loud. I looked at the wiring but did see anything grounding out or burnt. The only thing I can figure is perhaps (don't know the name of this part #3) is bad? Ideas?

Most posts are from 2 people? I see 2cents Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives. It's interesting how people, who seem to have nothing better to do, complain to no end about things and offer no real solution. (Sound Familiar?) I thought it would never come to this. But the guy threw a Birkenstock! If you do not choose to understand me, forgive my impertinence.