friendly_jacek

That is great!!! I presume you do mostly hwy driving? I just replaced front+back pads at 45000 miles. Mostly city driving with occasional light towing. Rotors were exactly in the middle of the factory-minimum thickness range. Not complaining.

I got a delivery and compared with the OE one. It is identical!!! So, Bosch is OEM for subary O2 sensor. I have to admit though that more than half of web sites I checked listed incorect part numbers for sensors for my car; Beware! To reiterate, Bosch #17018 ($156 or so) is the correct replacement part for A/F ratio sensor (= front wideband O2 sensor) for 2000 legacy 2.5 AT. Now, If I knew how to get access to it to replace it...

I also tow a 2000lbs boat with 2000 legacy AT. I installed AT cooler and AT temp gauge. So far so good (limited distances though, up to 70 miles). With MT there is always a chance to burn clutch, I guess.

Ya, I had that done while the car was serviced for TPS problem. But if you read the "warranty" carefully, I think it covers only external leak and nothing else. Please correct me if I am wrong. Opps! Corrections I did not notice you were talking about 2003-2004 only. Mine is MY2000.

Well, GM has at least 20% stake in Fuji HMI. This may explain some...

You are right, autoparts lists Bosch #13469 as front O2 sensor for forester but #17018 for legacy and outback. What a screwup! I will have a delivery tomorow so I will know if this is correct or not by the end of the week. I also noticed from this publication: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtFuelEmmisionW00.pdf that the front oxygen sensor is acctually not a typical oxygen sensor but an Air-Fuel Ratio sensor. Does anyone understand what the real difference is?

to clarify, timing belt is changed every 105,000 miles on SOHV 2.5L phase II.

PAezb, Funny thing, I had similar impressions...

I just ordered a bosch sensor (Part #: 17018) for my 2000 Legacy (front sensor) after checking Bosch website. There is some talk in Howard's thread that this would not fit Subaru. Anybody knows the correct part # for front sensor in 2000+ 2.5L phase II Subs with AT? What about other brands? Thanks, Jacek

I have a 2000 legacy L wagon with 45000. Fairly reliable. Several trips to a dealer, most recalls: O2 sensor recall rear axle rust recall coolant additive recall Recently: problems with TPS sensor ($330 at a dealer) O2 sensor readings a bit unusual (ordered part for $156) replaced brake pads myself ($50 parts at Autozone) Tires wear uneven, despite several alighments (the second set of tires is about gone) Check the condition of tires and brakes as they would be well gone by now. Also, check if 60000 service done. Look hard for evidence of head gasket problems. Good luck!!!

No way! Are you sure? I just ordered the same sensor (Part #: 17018) for my 2000 Legacy after checking Bosch website. What is then the correct part #? Thanks, Jacek

MTX, where is my $50 for diagnostic work? ;-)

hey Dude, Not a bad call!

He actually said: "Head warp caused by customers changing their coolant is now the number one warranty item with this engine. All caused by an engine block that was not plumbed to dynamically remove air from the high point. Subaru has since changed their cooling system design." Is the 2.5 gen II SOHV the one with improved plumbing?

Newest issue of CR summarized it well. More than average engine problems MY 98-99. Less than average MY 2000 and on.

"Well lets see.... Plugs were good, Wires were in order, Wires were good, Nothing came off, Nothing was jiggled loose, Nothing was damaged, Nothing was broken, Nothing was wrong! -Brian" I am with Brian, you withheld the vital piece of info (ie: pouring water in plug holes). I am glad the water did not get inside cylinders, because it would be even more difficult to guess why the engine hydrolocked with routine plugs change ;-)

MTX, I can bet $10,000 your codes are p0122 and TCM31. Faulty TPS, effects both engine and AT management. Please use palpay to email me $50 for "remote" OBD2 scan. But seriously, I had the same problem in my 2000 sub with 45000 miles. Note that AT temp light was blinking only. That means AT detected problem and went in limp mode (with hard shifts, etc). Only solid AT temp means overheating. There ia actually a procedure for pulling AT error code without scan, see below. Now is the bad news. I was charged $330 for replacement of TPS by dealer. $240 for a simple potentiometer, bloody murder! I was actually surprised that this was not covered by powertain warranty. The replacement took care of the problem but for a couple months only and it sometimes comes back in an intermitten fasion. I am afraid they replaced perfectly good sensor and the problem is with connection or wiring. Now I am wiser and invested $88 in OBD2 interface. The TPS is OK but O2 sensor has weird readings, sometimes it works, but often a flatline 0.5-0.7 V. I guess I will replace it. I do not know if TPS and O2 problems are related. Below is what I found on one of the internet forums, it works for 2000 legacy: "In any event, the flashing AT Oil Temp light indicates that the Transmission Control Module (TCM) has detected a problem and is trying to tell you about it. Here's the procedure for interrogating the TCM (...). It's one of those secret handshake procedures reminiscent of the pre-OBD ECU days. I swear I'm not making this up. 1) Warm up the engine 2) Turn the ignition switch OFF 3) Turn the ignition switch ON 4) Start the engine 5) Drive the vehicle at speeds greater than 12 MPH 6) Stop the vehicle 7) Depress the brake pedal and move the gear selector to "1" 8) Turn the ignition switch to OFF 9) Turn the ignition switch to ON 10) Move the gear selector to "2" 11) Move the gear selector to "1" 12) Move the gear selector to "2" 13) Move the gear selector to "3" 14) Move the gear selector to "D" Now examine the AT Oil Temp light again: If the light's blinking 4 times a second, then the problem is most likely a power supply or ground problem. If the light's blinking 2 times a second, then the TCM believes all is normal. If the light's on solid or not on at all, then there's a problem with the light's circuit. If the light's blinking with one or more long (1.2 sec) pulses, followed by one or more short (.2 sec) pulses followed by a 1.5 sec pause, then you're seeing a TCM diagnostic trouble code (DTC). The long pulses indicate "tens" and the short ones indicate "ones" so you add up the number of long pulses to get the left digit of the DTC and you add up the number of short pulses to get the right digit of the DTC. DTCs are two digits long (e.g. 23, 36, etc.). The end of the "ones" is indicated by a 1.5 second pause. Then, if that is the only DTC stored, it begins repeating that DTC with the "tens" again. However, there may be more than just one DTC stored, in which case they are spit out sequentially with 1.5 sec pauses between them, until the whole sequence repeats again."