Loyale93v

I took a close look at it last night. I noticed it was running a little rougher than normal. Turns out it was a vacuum leak at the Intake...passenger side. A pretty big one at that...passenger side intake gasket. I sprayed a little carb clean where I thought the sound was coming from and wallah...it smoothed right out. Any ways ...it doesn't look like to hard of a job to do. It appears as though the throttle body is part of the intake and can be removed all together. Any body ever done intake gaskets on these motors before?

Naru: Do you mean the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor)? Where is that located...on the block? Thanks for your help.

1993 Loyale EA82 TBI 95,000 miles- My sisters car, Seems its stalling just after start up during the warm up faze. I have yet to witness it happen. What i do know is: Start er up and she idles at 2000 rpm initially, then gradually tappers off to just under 1000 rpm to about 850 rpm- normally. Something may need adjusting, just what I don't know. Any one have any input on this? Thanks in advance.

But any ways...We've decided that finding / buying another Subaru is best. One that is younger...But in the mean time...is there any last ditch effort to try and save this one? Like "Bar's Leak Stop" I also saw one on the shelf that involves draining the coolant, adding the mixture, then emptying the coolant completely, letting it air dry for 24 hours. Then re-filling the coolant and "you're good to go" Any one have a remedy that will get through a month or so while we save up for a new car? Please note: I am very skeptical about "cures in a can"

1999 Brighton Legacy Wagon 2.2L, (229,960 miles) Wife called me at work to say car was overheating. I got there, the coolant was low with no apparent external leaks. I got her going with fresh coolant. Followed her home, and noticed some white smoke coming from tail pipe. I added one ounce of UV-DYE into the radiator coolant, let it run for 10 minutes...then with my Black Light, checked the oil. Sure enough, the UV-DYE had made its way into the crank case. The car has served me well...has NEVER giving me a problem. I bought it from my wife's parents neighbors for $240. I got two years out of it. The car had spent its whole life in Northern Vermont. It was a rust bucket due to the heavy Salt mix they use to treat the roadways up there. Any ways....so is repair even worth the trouble? Probably not. Unless I do the whole job myself....who has time? If I were to replace a head gasket, I should probably do both sides..? right? What will the job cost? (when all is said and done?) a lot! $100? $200? $500?....I may be able to find another $500-$1000 vehicle and get another 2-3 years out of it? The trouble is....my wife LOVES the current Subaru! She would not drive any other kind of car! Any tips? and/or pointers? for HG replacement?

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You'll never believe this!!! One of the bolts that is on the TC/Flywheel has backed out and is rubbing/tapping against the inside of the bell housing! can you fricken' belive it! And I was thinking I was going to have to do a tear down & rebuild of the top end! Wow PHEW!

you'll never believe this....one of the bolts on the TC/flywheel had backed out and is tapping against the case, making an awful racket!

check it out...I got out the stethoscope. I am fairly certain that the loud clacking/ticking noise is not the lifters but in fact coming from near the torque converter. Was it inside there that could potentially let go? I used the stethoscope on every portion of the engine, the short block, the heads, rocker covers, it is the loudest right at the TC! WTF!! It sounds like as the TC spins, something it whacking the inside of the case!:-\ Is this even possible!? I may have to split the trans from the engine to get a good look inside. any ideas here guys? anyone seen anything like this before?

Hey guys/gals, My 93 EA82 has a very, very loud ticking/clacking noise. My car is all stock. It has just over 80,000 miles. I am looking for a procedure to verify what is wrong with the engine. How can I determine if the lifters are what is causing the noise?...a compression test? Do I have to remove them to know for sure? thank you in advance.

Really!!?? I was was sure it was catastrophic failure! It is very loud. You think I should drive it in this condition? How much do the lifters cost? Would an oil pressure or cylinder compression test confirm this? Or is there a good way to determine which one is the bad one? It is hard to pinpoint where it is coming from exactly. Thanks.

I have read most of the threads on TOD & ticking lifters, however I am not convinced that that is what my engine is doing. Today while doing my normal driving, it started, with out any warning. It just started to make a very loud noise. It seems to be coming from the right side of the engine(passenger side). The noise gets faster or slower along with the engine RPM. I am not really sure where to begin with my diagnosis. This is a 1993 ea82 1.8L with 82,000 miles. I change the oil every 3000 with out fail. I all ways use a synthetic blend 5w-30.(I live in Massachusetts, so it is never cold until winter time). I replaced the Timing Belt & Water Pump at 70,000 miles. Wouldn't the engine be misfiring if a HLA / Lifter had failed? It doesn't appear to have any other symptoms other than this very loud clacking or ticking noise. It is very loud. Not an average lifter tick like on other engines. Would a lifter failure be this loud? Would an internal engine failure or misfire set an ECU code? Any help on this would be great! I'll be watching this thread for replies, Thanks in advance.

Let me be clear: the "drive belt" tensioner, not the Timing belt tensioner. I thought I was clear on that. My apologies if I wasn't. I am referring to the Accessory Drive belt that connects the A/C Compressor to the Crank Pulley. This is The Drive Belt closest to the Block. It has the A/C, The Crank Pulley & the Tensioner itself in the loop only. The 5 inch long bolt(10mm) that threads through the plastic housing that raises and lowers the tensioner pulley to tighten or loosen the accessory Drive belt Is stripped and will need replacement. I was able to loosen the pulley and then push and hold it down with a pry bar, while I tightened the bolt on the pulley. This helped a little but it won't last long. So I am trying to find one I can order over the net. Any one know where it could be found? Thanks to all who replied...and again, sorry for the mis-understanding.

Hello Everyone! My 1999 Legacy Brighton Wagon Is In Need! The Inside Drive Belt Tensioner is Stripped causing the the belt to get loose, very loose. Is there any after market shops That will sell me The Tensioner Assembly That I Need?! How Much Should It Cost? Is The Jusk Yard a Viable Option?? Thanks In Advance to all Who Reply! -Loyale93v

ok, thanks. I will check out alt voltage and belt deflection. Then I will get back to you guys. Thanks!

93 subaru loyale- 75,000miles has a rough idle, not real rough just not smooth. Last night i noticed the lights were flickering at idle...alternator? recently I had the drive belts off for a w-pump/t-belt. could they not be tight enough? what is proper belt deflection for these cars? any other ideas? I do get a belt squeal in the rain....:-\

bump

load the belt and then rotate the cam? won't it be off time if I rotate it? I am not sure I get it completely. What I did the first time was load the left belt and with the tensioner on , but the bolts just a little snug, lifted up to put tension on the belt. It seemed ok at the time. That is one concern. My biggest concern is the Idler Pulley has rubbed a mark in the inside Timing Cover, Does this happen normally? Or should I consider it faulty and replace it?

I think I can safely rule out a wheel bearing, at least on the front left, i just replaced it around Christmas time. I don't know about the right front though. I think i will start with the basics...I will rotate the tires one at a time and see if the noise changes location. If it does, I can work on tire or rim replacement. If not...at least I have ruled that out.I deffinately will keep you guys posted though..thanks for the ideas!

nobody has an idea?...really?

1999 Legacy Brighton Wagon-2.2L, 225,400 Original miles. 3 0r 4 days ago my wife is driving the car and had to slame on the brakes...(she said she really hit'em hard) She tells me that the front locked up and skidded a little. When she let off, it seemed as those something was holding her back...like the brakes did not totaly dis-engage. I thought it may have a Caliper issue. I drove it a little...it drives ok but it is now makig a "bumping" noise. Seems to be coming from front left..definately the front. It will get faster or slower with the speed of the car. At first, it would get quieter when the Brake is applied.(hence the caliper diagnosis) Today I pulled apart the left front caliper apart. Nothing seemed unusual. The bottom slide pin is a little loose. Turns out the seal at the end of the slide pin was missing. I manufactured a new one and installed it. I cleaned the caliper with a file and a right angle die grinder with a "cookie" on it. Re-lubed and re-assembled. The caliper piston was not locked up. Everything seemed to be ok. Took it for a test drive and the sound is still there! I thought the pads might have been "walking" around in the bracket...? The axle seems ok. Its not a clicking sound like a bad CV-joint would make. I'm stumped! need some advice! Thanks!

Hoping Someone can shed some light here... 1993 Loyale EA82 1.8L 2WD. 2 weeks ago I replaced the water pump and the Timing - Belts. Everything seemed to be working great. The tension seemed correct. Saturday the engine "jumped Time!" So I pulled it back apart. And found the Left side belt(drivers side) to be off by about one tooth. The problem could only be the Tensioner or the Idler Pulley...right? Are these components something I should of replaced the first time around? I removed the Idler Pulley and found that the Pulley is rubbing against the inside plastic Timing Cover. But when spinning the Idler by hand it seems smooth...? What is the proper way to put tension on the Belt? It seems self-explanitory...Am I missing something? I read on ALLDATA & Mitchell-OnDemand5 that there is a procedure to measure Tensioner Squareness. Does anyone know of this Procedure and how to do it properly? Should I just stop wasting my time and replace both components so I won't be doing this again in another two weeks?

the subie is now back together, it took so long because I was juggling that and the paid work that came into the shop. every time I got frustrated with the job I would just turn to this thread and read the humerous post about shotguns and crank pulleys!! Thanks Guys...

LOL! I got er loose....box end wrench in the torque converter, 1/2 drive breaker bar & socket...what Bear that was! It had never been removed...still had "subaru" belts on it. Thanks to every one!

I am having alot of trouble removeing the Crank Pulley Bolt On my EA82 Loyale(1993). A friend Of mine,(An Automotive Technician) suggested that I might try to remove the Radiator/Condensor/Grill so that I could Get My 1/2 inch Impact gun in there to remove the Bolt. Any body agree/Disagree with this method? Think it will work? Any other suggestions are also welcomed. Thanks in advance.