Loyale93v

I have a small coolant leak at the intake manifold gasket. I have purchased the gaskets and I am going to get sarted on it soon.(today) Do you guys have any do's and don'ts for this particular job. Any thing I should be watching out for? It seems preety straight forward. Am I going to have to remove the TB completely or can I get away with leaving it attatched to the manifold? Looking for a few pointers. I also am about to replace the valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket. I have been leaking to much oil for my liking. thanks in advance.

the fuel gage on my 93 loyale 2WD 1.8L is not registering fuel. Is this accessable? I figured it was inside the fuel tank. also it stalled out this morning while driving. The car was running a little rough prior to this. but I just thought it had to do with the intake manifold gaskets. they both are dribbling coolant out. They are on order from sub. my sister claims she put $5 worth of fuel just before the car stalled out, but when her boyfriend delivered a gallon of fuel it started up. Intake manifold gaskets = vacuum leak ...correct? she said it felt like it was running out of fuel but she had just put fuel in. the fuel pressure is fine. I cheaked. anyone have an educated guess?

I am having similar problems with my Loyale EA82 SPFI, I am going to pull all the lines and clean them out aswell. Any tips?

no cel. SPFI EA82, new plugs & wires, new cap and rotor, new air filter. 61,200 miles. I am stumped.

Cadillac put out one of their first in 1905. The single (four stroke) cylinder, mid-car mounted engine, drove the car by chain. Some of its "modern" features were inboard brakes,(two rubberband type mechinisms that wrapped around the rear axle, and tried to slow down the car from its top speed of 28 mph) disappearing windsheild wipers (the whole windsheild is removeable) and rack and pinion steering. Which a women couldn't or wouldn't drive do to the strength it took to steer. The 5 gallon fuel tank was mounted above the carburator for gravity feed. I found this marvel to have some oddities!

I will certainly take all this into consideration. I just have never seen a car with two timing belts. BTW...is the EA82 an interference motor? (probably a good thing to know!)

really. two actual TIMING belts?. Are they both conected to the center crank?

does my EA82 have two timing belts? Or some other odd ball set up?

I have no or little pick-up first thing in the morning(cold) and as the day progresses it gets better...a little better. I dunno..clogged cat-converter? how is a back pressure test done? Or do I need a pyrometer?

Aaahhhhhh.... now I remember...I knew I was missing something.....But for the life of me I couldn't figure out what...as you mentioned lining up the fly wheel, it all came back to me. My teacher had told me to do exactly that, ...and i forgot.

OK well here is how things are...Today I pulled off the outer two plastic timing covers after a sugestion from my ASE teacher. I was told to look to see if the cams wrer lined up, or "in time." my first look revealed that the one on the right(from the drivers seat) was at 11 O'clock and was close to 5 O'clock. apperantly one should be at 12 and the other at 6, depending on intake or exhaust. So any way, I started the engine , let it run for about 15 seconds and shut it off. the right was just after 6 while the left was just after 1. And again, I ran the engine, and again shut it off after 15 sec. The right was near 10 O'clock and the left was between 4 and 6 O'clock(but closer to 6.) Seema like it "jumped time to me." A question for you guys though....what if one was at 11 and the other at 5? Or, for example, one was at 9 O'clock and the other at 3"oclock?? it is 180 degrees different..? Or 11 and 5. What if the little holes were lining up at 1 and 7? Must they line up at 12 and 6 exactly? each and every time?

These are interesting points. I must admit though, I am very sceptical of products such as "restore" that claim to perfrom small miracles especially when there is or may be a mechanical component that is causing a failure. I have never heard of the "Subaru Stuff" upper cylinder cleaner, I surmise that this product can only be aquired at the dealership, am I right? Weighing out the options, it is worth a try to buy a cleaner and run it through and see what happens before I dismantle my relitively new engine. I will have to look up and locate the location of the cam and crank seals to inspect them. Are ther pictures in the FSM? This is all very good insight and information. Thank You. I learn a great deal of Automechanics at the school I attend. However one thing I can not get from a book is experience. And I thank the S.U.M.B for that!!!

I dunno, something is going on with the car.

Well, it didn't have a tree growing through it or anything. but someone else recomended something similar. I will definately spend the $20 before pulling it out.

This engine has 60,245 ORIGINAL miles! No rebuild. It did sit, in a garage, for less than a year. and I have only given it a tune up since. i.e. plugs,wires,cap,rotor,pcv-valve, ran some sea-foam through the gas tank. oh, and an air filter. It has a definate random miss-fire sound from the tail pipe. "blub,blub...blub...blub,blub,blub"

BUMMER!!! Well that's no good. It only has 60,000 miles on it too. well its got to be done.

did a compression check tonight. it revealed that the #2 cyl was only at 100 psi. The other three are at 150-170psi Then I added a few drops of oil, and the compression of the # 2 cyl increased up to 130 then a few more drops of oil and up to 170 psi it went. This test result tells me that the rings are bad. So is it impossible to do a ring job with the engine still in the car?

the video shows him pulling a piston out of the block. the rings that press around the piston....that's what I would be doing? even on my 1993 EA82 engine?

did a compression test on the 93 loyale tonight. Cyl # 1 has 168 psi, Cyl # 3 has 155 psi, Cyl # 2 has 100 psi and Cyl # 4 has 150 psi. So I added a few drops of engine oil to Cyl # 2. The compression raised up 130 psi. I added a few more drops and let it sit a few minutes and it raised up to 170 psi. So the BIG question... can a ring job be done without pulling the motor out of the car?

My 99 Legacy Brighton Wagon 2.2L EJ22(California Emissions) CEL code P1133. It is translated to HO2S High input circut fault. I have chaged out the part (the oxegen sensor) twice, the code will not clear out. The Volts should fluctuate roughly .05 - 1.0v, usually les than 1.0v i.e; .65-.95v. at any rate, the my live data scanner shows the volt reading as 3.764v! This is the up-stream ho2s. (pre-cat) The down stream ho2s reads a normal input of .66-.88v respectively. The first sensor replacment was a cheapo universal the pcm would not recognize/read the new sensor. The second sensor was used from another 99(CA EM) Same thing P1133 high output. I am kinda stuck here. Not sure how to proceed. Could it be the connector wires from the sensor plug to the PCM? Any TSB or MODIS (snap-on's scanner) troubleshooting say that Tech's in the field report that 9 times out of t10 the sensor is failing and not the PCM or anything in between. Has any one ever encountered this or something similar before? Any Ideas?

For the record...my 99 brighton legacy wagon EJ22 IS NON- interference. I just replaced the timing belt and timing idler pulley. I got my information fron "alldata/pro" and "endwrench"

At the risk of sounding redundant, I am hoping that some one would be able to direct me on how to properly preform the D-CHECK PROCEDURE. I currently am with out a pdf reader on this pc and it would be most helpful to learn this procedure so I may properly Diag my 93 loyale spfi.

The great thing about the auto repair business is that one may never know all; there is always more to learn.

thank you , this will be most helpful.