Loyale93v

I have the non-turbo. I bought a w-pump for $45. Inside the box there is 4 inch long studs, an O-ring, and the gasket. The O-ring goes where?

heater core bypass? replace it also?

Thanks guys. i started pulling it apart when things got slow this afternoon at work. The only thing I for see being a problem is the crank pulley Bolt. (this is a non-interference engine, right?) It is gonna be a bear to crack loose. Other than that, I have pulled the alternator, and lifted the A/C Compressor out of the way. I went ahead and bought the timing belts, might as well right? The Oil seal seems like a good Idea also. Never done that before. Any pointers on the oil seals? (she's a leaker all right.)

Looking for a copy/download, i.e; of The Factory Service Manual for The 1993 EA82.(Subaru/Loyale) Can any one help me with this? I have most of it downloaded from this site: 1989 EA82 version. Is there much of a difference between the 1989 FSM and the 1993 FSM? I just need the section on Engine cooling. (water pump in particular). Thanks In Advance!

HELP!! Got a question about my 93 Loyale. The water pump houseing is wobbling so bad that the cooling fan that is attatched is hitting the radiator! How do I fix that? Does the whole w-pump need replacement? I don't get what is holding it on...? THANKS!!

Ok techs, here is the issue: My 92 Sub/Loy 1.8L has experienced failure. The water pump is wobbling around causing the fan blades to rub against the radiator. Not good. So it must be replaced , right? So where should I get the parts? Dealer? Aftermarket? If I remember correctly, the timing belt(s) must be removed To R & R the Water Pump, Correct? Can any one give me some tips, or pointers? Things to watch out for?

I disconnectd the left side e-brake cable from the shoe inside the drum. The right side is still attatched. hhhmmmm.:-\

yes, but it is rubbing un evenly. More like a scrape-scrape-scrape.. I adjusted the star wheel at time of install. It felt like it had the proper drag on the drum before I put the wheel/tire back on. I don't get why it is doing this.

R & R rear drums, left e-brake frozen. I disconnected it. Now right rear is rubbing when I apply the pedal. any advice on adjustment?

PCV age unknown; I bought car last May , with 58,000 miles on it. I haven't changed it. It must be original. i notice this car has alot of blowby.

OOPS ....yeah sorry. * 93 loyale, EA82, 2WD, 70,000k *

UPDATE: I cleaned off the oil filler cap and let the car idle for 30 min or so and checked it again. There is beads of moisture on the inside of the cap. ( I bet it is coolant burning off) how bad is it doctor? i dont know but I have had a set of intake manifold gaskets in the drawer for a few months now...maybe it is time to R & R ! anyone...? MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!!

today while checking the oil level {which by the way, leaks from an array of places..but thats a story for a different day} So I lifted off the oil cap and underneath on the inside of the cap was a mayo like substance..not allot but noticeable. I checked the oil level, it was half way between full and low. I topped it off. The coolant overflow res was a little low also, again not very low but noticable. { I keep a close eye on my cars being an auto tech by trade} I don't suppose this is normal. The intake gaskets are leaking a trickle of coolant. Is it safe to say that the intake gasket and the emulsification on the oil filler cap is related?

My 1999 2.2L SOHC Legacy Brighton Wagon is a PHASE II engine; Is that correct? Manufacter date of: 8/99 , PHASE I is '90 - 98, and PHASE II is '99 only? Is this correct?

what is the PROPER burping method when re-filling antifreeze/coolant into a 2.2L '99Sub/leg?

proper method to get the air out?

99 leg brighton 2.2L (wifes car); I was getting only surges of heat when I push the accelerator. I opted to try thermostat change. Sunday afternoon, only one open was C.A.P. when I pulled it out the oem stat it was intact. installed aftermarket version. (noticeably shorter; less coils.) any way, got down the road and now I am over heating I am lucky if I didn't pop a gasket! Question: could this have been directly related to t-stat? OR was there an existing issue that was amplified with the thermo stat change? I got heat now I tell ya!

I am a fan of "sea foam" personally. follow the directions. 1/3 in fuel tank, 1/3 in oil , and 1/3 down the throat of th TB

My daily driver is a 1993 Loyale 2WD, sedan, 1.8L EA82. I am having a bit of trouble with the windshield wipers. Seems that it should be self-explanitory as to how to remove and install a new set. It looks like they are rivots holding them inplace..? There is also a set of tiny philips head screws holding a small portion of the arm in place..? I just bought this car last May, so wiper blades hasn't been an issue, until now. After flipping through the owners manual, all it describes to do is change out the actual rubber blade itself. I don't know where i could purchase just the rubber blade.? I haven't seen that in many years. Anyone have any suggestions? I have already bought a pair of pretty decent wipers, would hate to have to return them. Does the dealer still sell the actual replacement? Need some help here guys/gals! Thanks in advance.

I am trying to be a mechanic from 8-5 daily. My advice... get spark tester ($1.87 @ harbor freight) and test all leads and plugs. Check for signs of damaged,frayed or split wires and boots. Some times it helps to do this in the dark to see if any spark is arching out to the block. If they all got spark then it is ruled out. Check cap and rotor for signs of carbon tracking and damage. Fuel. Pull the fuel line inbetween fuel filter and TB. Have someone turn it over. did you get sprayed with fuel?(then that is ruled out.) Noid light on injector. Is it getting cpu/pcm signal? If yes then that is ruled out and you can move on. OHM meter(Digital multi-meter $20 or less @ HB or parts store for cheapo version) check ohm's on injector to see if operational. could also perform test to check injector pulse width with right diag tools. IF everything checks out at that point...timing light I think the spec on these EA82"s is 20 degrees BTDC. If that checks out...compression test-dry. record psi readings on cold engine with fuel and spark disabled. 4 cranks on each cylinder tested(4 cranks is one full engine rotation) on low compression cylinders, if any, repeat test with a tsp of motor oil. if psi rises significantly you may have a piston ring problem. If no psi increase, perform cylinder leak down test to determine if intake valves or exhaust valves are to blame. Now then...if after all that, everything check out and is up to spec...start looking at a serious vacuum leak. These engines are sensitive to vac leaks. Oh, BTW, you could also of checked fuel psi and fuel volume with a fuel gage during fuel check. IF after that...you still haven't figured out where the misfire is originating from...you missed it and you should start all over again repeating every step. That's just what I might do.

where is the brake light switch located in the 99 legacy/brighton wagon EJ22 (2.2L) ? my running/tail lights come on fine. Brake lights do not. The bottom two, left and right are dual filiment bulbs. I am guessing that it is the brake light switch that is to blame. Anyone else been through this before? I have been searching the threads to try and find an answer but I am not coming up with anything concrete. As always, thanks for your help!

I have no brake lights! I do have tail lights, however. I started with checking and replacing the bulbs(all of them) still nothing. I seem to be getting power to the bulb. Is there a brake light switch somewhere? I have checked all the fuses, (all good.) where is the brake light switch and how do I tell if it is faulty? Any one have any suggestions? My wife can't be driving around with out brake lights!

Hydrolock!?!? bad...very bad... so how much do you think I should drain off? A couple QTs ? Shouldn't need to drain off more than that right? that is good thinking though! THANKS.

Today is the intake manifold gaskets day. It looks pretty straight forward. BUT, are there any hidden tricks of the trade or does anybody have a little advice on how to make this go smoothly? I guess what I am looking for is advice on how to handle the throttle body. I didn't buy a TB gasket, nor do I have the few bucks that it costs, so I am hoping to replace the IMG's without altering the TB gasket. Is this a frequent practice? Anyone got any comment on this? Thanks in advance. Also today I am replacing the valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket. I am hoping to stop the oil drips. I have to add close to a quart every ten days or so.

I deffinately did buy my gaskets from the dealer! I learned that lesson a long time ago. I try to buy only dealer parts, unless the cost is way out of line. It seems as you say, straight forward. I don't think I'll need a magnet, though they can come in handy. I was mostly just wondering about the TB. I didn't want to have to buy the TB Gasket, if I could avoid it.