Niku-Sama

oi note to self, get a fire extinguisher i am supprised at the ammount of metal used in the car though. i also wouldnt use the front wheels, who know what the heat did to them and then having the firefighters come along and hose em down with cold water

thats a cool little car, attack the rust!

but then it'll blow hot air in there!

you know its got a blown head gasket and your going to try and run it any way? Matsu what? whyd it censor it? freakin werid

you know you could probally go to a yard and pull a new switch off of a car there, theres 2 pluses to that. 1 its cheaper generally 2 you take it apart in the junk yard and learn to do it right at home. if you mess up and crack a pannel its not as much as a big deal if you did it to your car

careful, dont catch it on fire like i have. was trying to get better seats in my 280zx and one went up in flames, seats burn really well

acually you can top it off so much but eventually you'll need some one to suck the old stuff out with as much air as possible and create a vaccum in the a/c lines and then recharge it from there. other wise you putting refrigerant in with air and compressing the air so there isnt as much refrigerant in there as it needs to be and it wont blow as cool. this is something i have run into a few times. also no system is leak free all the time, it eventually gets out as a side note my loyale says it was converted in 2007, its already low but all that was changed were a few fittings and the dryer. dryers generally arent too much and the fittings i think were replaced because they leaked, or they may be factory and looks new because i degreased the front end....hmm. either way it was converted 134a, theres an adaptor for the 134a on the low pressure line to use the new fittings and its already low, 2 years. i'm gonna top it off and go from there, see if the "stop leak" for a/c works at all (doubt it but wont hurt) but if you replaced the compressor or the dryer and opened up the system you should have some one suck everything down and then fill it

they'll warp horribly bad, thats the big deal. warped heads and/or block means your new headgasket probally isnt going to last too long

i think the rattechety lever raises over all seat height and the rear lever may tilt the seat....mabe we shoulda checked em out before you pulled them ina blink of an eye

i just replaced the seals on mine and the mickey mouse gasket had a hard time staying on. i had to use some permatex gasket maker to get it to stay on while i reinstalled the pump so have some on hand just incase that happens. the black stuff is the most oil resistant and use an EXTREMELY small ammount. pretty much just enough to get it to stay in place

fixed, the new ammount of oil pressure combined with out having air in it killed the sending unit i guess. went to PAP $5 for 2 units and it works again. and i have a spare! it'll go in my trunk box. i thought i herd some more rattling so i looked under there and i found an exhaust leak on the manif....pipe thingy a new gasket on it where it mounts to the head and it should be alot quieter

i like the 2 tone acually, and it isnt ************ colored 2 toned either.

werid, i thought i was looking at half a 6 for a minute

yea that was interesting, solder that stuff man. well everythings hooked up. i'll grab a pressure guage and screw it into where the sending unit goes and see what it says. if it still says 0 psi i think i know what happened and i am gonna have to take it all apart again to get the pump off. i cant remember if when i had the pump off and i changed the seal on the shaft if it stuck it in the vice (ina towel to not score) and tightened it down real good. if i didnt then it probally loosened up and i dont think i can tighten it with out taking the pump off, or if thats even a good idea. but we'll see, i am kinda 70/30 that i did tighten it. it should be that it couldnt take the pressure because it climbed up pretty high when it was cold, something it didnt do for a long time and it was leaking at the time too and now its no. the way i see it is its a 3 way tie between sending unit / pump shaft not turning / unknown

0 while moving/accelerating

yep it was still plugged in after the guage dropped. the plastic thing in the middle is loose too...just checked

i call the operation a success...sort of. the ticking is gone, it took a little bit for the last little bit to go away (5 minutes) everythings cool on that end. after talking to Turbone earlier today found out the timing was off aswell by a bit so its all lined up again. heres the sort of part, got it to gether let it idle everythings fine, good pressure in the top end of the guage and everything. take it for a run down the road and back everything looks ok and i check the guages and the oil pressure goes straight to 0. when i say take it for a run i am not talking about flooring it just normal driving. pull over out side the house (almost back) check under the car, no leaks. check the oil, full. soo....... what are the odds the sending unit went bad? there werent/arent any noises or leaks, the pump was leaking bad before mabe the sending unit just couldnt take it any more? the guy said he had 10/30 in it with MMO i put 10/40 in it no additives

i would say its more likely the wheel bearing. that looks like the right front and if you do a long right and the noise stops your not putting as much pressure on that wheel bearing and the noise may quiet down. wheel bearings are cheap and easy. i say replace it and see if it helps if not go for the tie rod, its not hard to take a wheel off. as for the boot, well i am not going to be much help, the whole time i owned my maxima that boot was ripped open on both sides and i never replaced it and i didnt ever have any problems.....but its probally a good idea to replace if thats you in your avatar pic

well that and t the same time $300 car here. if it works it works for the tick if it doesent it doesent. if i wanted to but big bucks in a car, no offence to any one i like my loyale, but i would rather buy some new meat for my 280zx and a set of shocks/springs. the fiance and i need something a little bigger than a sentra and a 280zx but this fits the bill. when things are a bit more financially sound and the time comes i'll fix the other problems that come up but for now its only the TOD and the T-stat. both can be cheap. considering all the oil comming from the mounting surface of the oil pump...

yea i am givin up on the stint for now, i lost one in the grinder, it went BANG and dissappeared and took a chunk of me with it. the seccond failed while installing it and i am out of ideas. so its going back together, lemme know if you have that part we were talkin about earlier, i really hope you have it. would like to buy something from a member rather than a j-yard and i dont really want to dig it out of another car either

THE CAM CASE O RINGS HAVE BEEN REPLACED! i know what i am talkin about when i say this the ************ing things have been replaced. odds are they were replaced at 140,000 miles ago like i said before when the head gaskets were redone i replaced the seals that go on the end snout, i am not talking about those i know you guys arent talking about those but i am pretty sure its safe to say that in 4/2008 when the head gasket was replaced they were replaced aswell they dont make just plain rubber ones any more right? so lay off the o rings. in the cam case! the grease and crust and majority of the leak is comming from the oil pump i have replaced all 3 seals i am about to bolt it back in, with a stint and lastly, there is PLENTY OF ROOM arround the stint and the gasket for it to squish out but not get sucked in like the old on was some message boards are like this and i hate it, if your new to the board you dont know jack ************. lets put it this way this car is 1990 and its the newest car i have ever owned. i think its safe to say i have worked on a few things.... and thanks frank, i know its has been the cause of the problem alot of the time, we used to get them in at work (when i worked) all the time but we never thought much about it and the owners didnt care. this is the most likely culprit considering the ammount of work done to the car over the years, they went a little above preventitive maitence. if it doesent work then oh well i'll just drive it with some thicker oil in it.

might as well '90 Loyale Turbo W/ Full Time 4wd has 183,800 i should be putting more on it hopefully, fixing a few leaks in the front end non subaru. 1979 Datsun 280zx ~86,000 1987 Toyota Camry wagon (loaner car) roughly 550,000 its a relatives car i am driving currently, they say the origonal speedo broke at about 180,000 miles and they replaced it with a NEW speedo from toyota (so it shows 000,000 new) and it now says 390,000

theres asually quite a bit of area arround the gasket to expand but i am still fine tuning it aswell. i'm not relying on the oil pressure guage in the car and that was at how ever hottest the car gets, which isnt hot at all, 1/4 the way up the guage on the temp. as a preventive measure they installed a cooler thermostat, too cool but i'll get to it when i get to it. save the cool t-stat for when i go to texas. and no offence to you but your the only person really saying the oppisite that the majority of the people i talked to have said, there was also a small minority that had no friggin clue. i had also got a heads up too from some one else about you. so with a grain of salt.

the white one in front had decent pannels, some of the others in the back were ok. i pulled a few parts from it, gas door, passenger seat and rear interior hatch pannel, i may try and go back and get some more, i was thinkin it might be easier to swap the front fenders, mine have rust along the edge of the wheel wells but i forgot to ask how much they charge for fenders. it would be nice because it would be a direct swap for me i cant remember when i went but it was wednesday or thursday last week and there were only about 6 GL/Loyale style wagons, and the turbo one has an engine no longer, dont know if it was there when you were there (or if you took it) i'm headed back some time next week, when i get monies

nope not sucked in on the cam case like that, i looked in and the surface of the seals in the cam case have little depressions in them, like a crank seal from napa if you know what i am talking about well i fabbed up a different stint and i am gonna drop it down in there any way and see. it wont hurt i was reading arround and i found a few cases about an oil line going to the heads and something about a spring on the other side, is that those banjo fittings on the underside of the heads? the headgaskets have been replaced at i think it said 140,000. the oil pressure was 55Psi at idle out of the pump and lastly of all i didnt say how long it had been ticking, the PO said its been mabe 150 miles since it started and then i put mabe 25 on it on top of that. edit: heres the new one... its made from a copper coupling, i belive its 1/4" ID and a 10mm flat steel washer that i pressed on over it in a vice and ground down on a bench grinder. i keep lookin at the old seal and that flat spot was tilted inwards i can see it i know you guys cant. and if it doesent work so what but judging from the ammount of work previously done to the car before the father in law passed away and the people i bought the car from inherited it alot was done to the car, headgaskets, lifters some seals, oil pan gasket and a transmission filter kit, this was all done arround 130,000 ~ 140,000 its at 183,800 right now i popped the valve covers off when i started and theres only a slight varnish over the insides. i'm going to run a quart of ATF when i fill it up after all this to get what ever is in there out if any thing and then go from there