Niku-Sama

so when you turn it off it tries to run still. dieseling? carb or SPFI?

i understand that

hmm that gets me thinkin, though could be a real pain in the rump roast if i have to figure out where to tie it into, but it could go the complete oppisite way and have the TCU be plug and play with the rest of the harness. hmm i wonder if it would be more beneficial to go with something close to my cars age (its a 1990) and mabe i'll get lucky and it'll have the same setup with an EJ in it. i cant imagine that a earlier EJ 4eat car is going to have much different input from EA 4eat. mabe i should go into the junk yard and see if the TCU part numbers are the same and the connectors for the harness are the same

heres an adition to what was placed out recently. 2 more new ones, D row was cycled and not quite fully stocked and some of the EA 82's are going to go by by that are further back so if you want any thing off of those act fast. 2 new ones. one is a Black GL10, turbo is gone, turbo manifold is in my barn the hood is off now. all there other wise, some spider on the inside, about as crusty as the others theres also a 1985 GL hatch 2wd FWD 200,000+ on it. funny thing about this car is i have acually driven it, it came from a car lot in everett, its a little green hatch (cool color) fenders are dinged up, no grille front bumper is bent like it hit a fence post and the same with the hood, nothing major. i know this car runs and i thought it was neat but they wanted too much for it ($595, its on the window still). its pretty sad, i'm sure the PaP people didnt give em much more than $100 for it. ho hum.

well i am sure the regular spot for mounting it under the hood is still there. some people have alot of time on their hands

theres photobucket like some one said but... check with your ISP aswell you might have available web space with your service. i know for a fact charter has 11 or 22 megs of webspace, it changed recently.

auto or manual? does it look like there is/was a gasket on this nut? i dont know about you but leaking nuts bother me

but you have a SPACE GHOST!!!! avatar picture. i miss space ghost coast to coast.

i found it, PCV was spitting up some but i thought it was odd that it was so much. after a new valve and fixin the hose i stuck my head down there, rear main. oh well i'll fix it when i have time...or have it fixed when i have the money. i kinda get the feeling the MMOing and SeaFoaming from the PO helped clean away the gunk keeping it form leaking.

oh dang it, i forgot to check the cars at the yard for this, theres a new 85 gl hatch there now too. edit: you know i got to thinkin, i hope these have a pin valve on them so they dont explode if they get too hot. just thinkin about how hot cars get inside and some of the pin valves i have seen go while playing paintball

wow, nerd alert

i know you got this workin but i thought i would say, plug wires shouldnt zap you. i would think about gettin new ones some time.

ancient brat burial grounds perhaps? thats cool

why not make a mile high a mile and a half high? lift

what ever, you've said that before yet we have this now. eaither way mabe you should treat people with more respect, who cares if you dont know them or if they are new, you dont know them and you need to give them the benifit of a doubt. and also you dont need to write a friggin book every post when a smaller, shorter post is just as helpful or more often that i have seen is more helpful. then again this is the guy who wanted me to tear the whole engine down before trying the cheap and a whole lot easier seals for the tick of death. sure the TOD may come back later on down the road when things wear out but by then i'll either have another engine lined up or i'll be able to afford something else. edit: i forgot to add, the sb $500 beater. well no ************ sherlock, i did only pay $300 for it. thats exactly what it is but it doesent mean it cant run well. i dont think thats something you understand, $300 car, not gonna put a whole lot of money into it unless i find its going to be worth it, do some things here and there that are cheap, thats pretty much it. yea i have talked about the whole EJ thing but trust me, what ever donor car and or engine isnt going to be near the cost of this car, and it'll be purely for fun. acually considering the ammount i have put into the car its total cost is about $366 its exactly that, a cheap car, its cheap to insure even but like i said before just because its a cheap beater doesent mean it cant run well.

yea i am in that same boat, i have the face plate thing but not bracket and i keep forgetting to check the cars in the junk yard and see how they are done up. i'm going tommorow to get a hood (i think...) if i find some you want me to take a pic of em so you can make some?

well if any thing i would pull that front bump and replace it with an OEM before you sell it

fix the tick and keep it, it might be a simple fix where you wont have to pull the heads off. in my mind fixing the tick would probally add another $100 or so to the value.

i say ask arround about the alignment, a good place will do a decent alignment and not charge and arm and a leg....unlike les schwab. place back at home charged $30 for a 4 wheel alignment and they are always spot on.

i agree with the wagon wheel statment but as they are, not feelin the alloys either. i think since your trim is almost gone you need to go one solid color or another and take the trim off

wow ok some dude my general age talking down to me like some old overzealous cock. i'll trust the guage, the resistance off the sending unit is within spec at temp, thermostat opens at temp listed. the fan doesent kick on but from what i am seeing it doesent really need to the coolant is back down to arround 140 before it heads back in. no cold spots in the radiator

oh well if its already comming off peel the vynil off and vaccum the foam under it. use a brissle sttachment on the vaccum and it should help scrub it off. the foam i bet is dry and turns to dust right? you'll probally find areas where they applied the glue where there will be some foam still or there'll be a big crusty blob. i dont know what to do about that. i replaced the head liner in my 280zx and that was a similar thing, vynil with a thin layer of foam, used a vaccum to get the foam off after peeking the vynil off

i've owned some pretty old cars, and infact this is the newest car i have owned. but i have never ever seen a guage lose its accuracy due to time. i have had the sending units go bad over time because of the fact that thermosistors become more resistant over time. i pulled sending units from different cars of various years and milages and they all read approximatly the same between them all so they musta used a higher quality thermosistor in these. it kinda explains why people freak here when it gets into the red, aparently red on these cars would be the temprature of the surface of the freakin sun

you talking about the door pannels with the door lever and window knobs/switches? i wouldnt strip the vynil off of those, they are cardboard underneath