Niku-Sama

okie dokie... i checked the level today and it was a little bit low, it sucked the overflow dry and was sitting low in the neck, not dangerously but it probally just sucked the coolant that was lost when i pulled the thermostat and coolant temp sensor speaking of sensors, where the sensor that adjusts the fuel mixtures depending on the temp of the car? i wanna test it but i cant find the thing

hmm i dont remember there being a clutch on the trans we pulled, but yea to the throw out bearing, since your already there any way and closer with out a clutch is there going to be a difference in clutch size between the trans he has and the one thats going in?

thats not true, the "tyre" inflator in my Z was commonly found in those cars. no spelling of tire on em for a while. so is it single use or something? i dont see how it can be an extinguisher/inflator, wouldnt you be blowing all sorts of junk into your tire when you inflate it?

you sure its not rattling because you took the trim and door pannel off? the top edge of the door pannel has the dew wipe thingies that help keep the window from rattling aswell

i dont know, only thing i know is that you missed your target. try posting or request a move to the newer subaru forum

last i checked having the hub out so far was a positive offset, not negative

yea ok so saying boiling the water and "the thermostat opens arround 200F" you think i am eye balling that? oh you know theres bubbles in it, should be about 200F.....

meh alright, i guess its a good coushon for when the a/c condenser starts letting off heat when i get it fixed. these rads must cool really really well when they arent clogged then

dont be tellin me about the guage, i'm not the one that thinks its bad some one else does. eh i just dont think its going to come up at all when its cold out

oh yea i knew i forgot something. when i swapped the pulley for my 280zx i used a pulley from an older Delco/Remmy alternator that was in the junk yard, i cant remember if it was keyed or not, i dont think it was. it was the same diameter as the ribbed pulley and it came out just as far so i didnt have any clearence problems. what i would do is get the cheapo SOHC maxima alternator take the brat and maxima alternator some place or if you have an impact wrench do it your self and pop it off and try to swap em

i've only had it a few weeks and its been like this the whole time. its a turbo loyale, i dont think the guage goes bad like this, i know sending units can so thats why i tried a few. the heat works, it could be warmer, and the electric fan has never kicked on. the electric fan does work, i jumped it and it kicked on, it also has a new switch in the rad for it

i would clean it before sticking it in, clean parts is happy parts

mines black...i think, i think we are talkin about the same

ok its a little more mixed than you might think, i ran into this before. 84 and earlier maximas are old tech alternators, external fan poor voltage regulator and over all crappyness 60 amp is correct, at peak, you hardly get the full 60 amps put of it 84 and earlier maximas use a 2.4L straight 6 same configuration as the Z cars just a smaller bore. 85-86 maximas origonally came with a 70-80 amp alternator, some of these have vbelt pullys some have ribbed, in 1987 there was a redisign to the 2nd generation maxima that added more fancy stuff that needed more juice, all 87 to 94 SOHC maximas have a 90 amp ribbed belt pulley alternator. some remans that were used in the 85-86 maximas were acually the 90 amp ers rebulit with a vbelt pulley on them because the 70-80 amp alternators were crap and the remans of them usually lasted about 30k before going out again. there are some 1986 maximas that have ribbed belts aswell, it was kind of a transisiton thing. DOHC (only found in the 90s+) have a different but still similar 95 amp alternator, instead of the ears being straignt across its off set a little bit even newer ones than that have the offset ear, it could still work and theres some that produce 120amps but i dont know if i would go much above 90 on these cars and unless you can find one with the offset ear in a junk yard cheap to try and see if it fits then i would stick to the 87-94 SOHC maxima alternators. 300ZX alternaros do not work 85-88 have a funky bracket on them and produce 60-70 amps, 89 and up well, good luck they are a *************** to get to and are probally different still. 280zx alternators will work but you'll be getting the same as the 84 and older maxima for reference 84 and earlier 1st gen maxima, 85-88 2nd gen, 89-94 3rd gen 95-99 4th gen, 00-03 5th gen. i ran into this problem my self on another car, the 60 amp on my 280zx was newer but still crap, i also owned an 87 maxima that i pulled the alternator off of (lifetime warranty) before it was hauld off and stuck it in my 280zx after fabbing an adaptor for the wiring and alot of research. there are other alternators that will work from other japanese cars but these are the better and there are more of them arround than the others.

Purple long bed brat!

is it rear drum? and are you sure its not hissing while your moving and not braking? drive next to a wall or median with your windows down and see

ok so i thought i would get to the bottom of this temp only gets to 1/4 the way up the guage thing. this morning i got up, popped the thermostat out, 195 stamped on the bottom, coolants clean no corrosion arround it, bita black goo on it from the thermostat gasket but all arround good shape, thought it was odd that a 195F thermostat is making the car run cold, its not that cool of a thermostat. tossed it in a pot of water, boiled it, arround 200F it opens up no probs. toss it back in the car, run it to make sure it just wasnt stuck open and snapped shut when i drove and same result. go to junk yard, pull a few thermostats and see what head gasket blown cars are using and they are all 180F thermostats, grab a few sending units for the temp guage, swap with the one on the car.....same thing. the sending unit for the guage is the brass screw in unit with the one spade connector right? so i am stumped, are these single row radiators really efficient when they are acually clean and flowing well? i imagine it has a bunch of smaller diameter tubes running in it to increase cooling efficency while keeping down on space and cost, have seen it before and since these were mroe of an economy car i doubt many people keept the cooling system in check and probally clogged alot of areas of the rad. or is it possible the funky loyale i have has a different radiator from normal too, so far this has been the most un ordinary loyale i have seen, awd turbo 4eat, wouldnt supprised me if it had some sort of different rad

you used to be able to get nighthawks at fred meyer. and if your silver stars only last a few months somethings wrong, mine lasted about 3 years and i dont know how long the sealed beam silverstars have been on my 280zx but they are still good too, well acually they have been on atleast a year now, almost 2

you dont know where the t-stat is? you took a freakin picture of it when you were asking about another part

wow ok, it took me alot longer, there was more new stuff. any way that EA81 does not have power steering, no pump or any thing up top, no lines for PS and a plain ol rack in the cross member, woulda figured with all the other options in that car it'd have power steering but it doesent. do EA82 racks fit? theres tons of em there

you can still get the same results with a rattle can, usually requires alot more sanding.

i'll go in about 30 minute or an hour. i accidentally slept in way longer than i wanted. about 13 hours, dont know how i did that. any way i'll check for it and i'll try and remember to bring my camera this time, i think i am gonna pull a grille, mabe a fender

hmm i'll just keep an eye out for a donor car, i'm not ina huge hurry it runs pretty good now aside from the pre turbo exhaust leak. so i guess a car with a 4eat and the bellhousing sounds like the best way to go. i dont know how accurate it is but the TPS thing, in the manual i have it says its more of a switch than a sensor, knows when its closed and wide open but this haynes manual doesent document 4eat real well

yea if i cant find something for work up here soon i'll wind up in el crapo tx, pretty dry and crappy there. desert places are more boring than rainy mountiany green places i mean think of it, everything is dead and brown, all the houses are painted the same damn funky pink color like it was some city requirement to use pastelish aztec colors to paint EVERYTHING the same friggin color and its pretty safe to go into what ever wilderness there is out there, no bears or cougars or any thing but theres tons of friggin rattle snakes. i'll take bear/cougar over rattle snake thank you. bear/cougars arent poisionous. also its flat, did i mension its brown? it'd be more interesting and sit and watch your car TRY to rust in a desert but thats it.

ok so i have an odd ball and i am contemplating getting an engine that i can rebuld and replace the old engine when i need too only thing is... the car i have now has an existing 4EAT engine its a 1990 Turbo Loyale w/ Full time 4WD and a 4EAT transmission, all stock except the aftermarket cruise....which i am not sure how its working but it does. any way i havent really seen any thing on this, i assume most of it would be the same but seeing how the 4EAT is also in the other (newer) cars would i need an adaptor plate and would i really need a shorter shaft? also what about wiring for the transmission, this is an electronicly controlled 4 spd auto trans right? is the system for it stand alone from the rest of the computer system or is it tied into it? (i imagine its tied in) none of the manuals i have really tie into the 4EAT wiring on the '90 loyale, not sure if it made it into other loyales either. i almost wonder if its a direct swap for a 1990 legacy motor