Niku-Sama

wow dude thats alot AKC yea the thing is people in washington northern oregon want cars for winter, even in idaho. what do they want? something that does well in show and ice and gets good gas milage, they are all thinking that they are all AWD though and are dissappointed when they find out ours are either lever or button operated 4wd or fwd, the few people lucky enough to have FT4WD (like my self) usually have an easier time of selling because of it, people dont realize that the button and lever operated 4wd works just as good. the other thing that some one said that the "PNW" doesent salt the roads and well yea they dont any more unless its an emergency but washinton salted their roads, my aunts 87 camry wagon is a testiment of that, WA doesent any more but they used too. no one can argue that theres a high concentration of subarus in washington and always have, most of them are native to the state but havent you guys wondered why you get some time into the late late 80's or early 90's the rust on the cars isnt nearly as bad as they are from the mid 80's and early on. its not consistant so it mista been some time arround 90 that they stopped salting in WA. aside from craigslist stuff well. what i notied in washington and oregon. if its got a blown headgasket its any where from $650 - $800 and aside from that you cant find jack. normally if it were a car that was worth it and the headgaskets were easy it would be no big deal but the headgaskets on these are a pain in the rump roast. i like my subaru and all but if the head gaskets blew in both my loyale and 280zx and it was snowy and icy out. i'd replace the head gasket in the 280.

from what i have herd back in the day the way you get a dual core from subaru is have them replace the radiator under warranty when it was new then because it over heated, its a mixed bag on what you find in the junk yard but i havent found any good dual cores. there are alot of aftermarket dual cores you can buy now though so it shouldnt be a problem. my car is MPFI turbo with A/C and it appears to be single core. i would like some high detailed pics of both single and dual cored rads with mabe some measurements where the fins meet the tank so we can get a good idea of what to look for. the only reason i know one car i found in the junkyar was dual core was because the radiator fan chopped it in such a way you could see both rows, aside from that i couldnt tell the difference nor could i get good measurements (it was a mess)

wow ok hard to belive but rockauto has failed. closeout gaskets and closeout grommets come to $4.46 but the added cost of shipping ($13.91) to me makes it $18.73 schmucks has the whole kit, gaskets and grommets for $13 and if they have to order it its still $13. i guess i could try the grommets, they are $3 for 9 at schmucks and if it doesent fix i'll get the gasket set when i can which is $13 and comes with more grommets. ....damn thats alot of grommets. i figure the grommet is better able to come off and go back on any way. also would it be too much of a cheap rump roast of me to try and re use the existing valve cover gasket? its a little rubber seal kind right? if its not broekn in any spots i might be able to clean it off and reseat it and it might get better, might not stop but

well from my experence from pulling turbo exhaust manifolds off, FWD cars have more give and their engines can be lifted further than AWD/4WD cars. undoing the motor mounts and using some sort of old EGR tubing to act as a lever in the junk yard i got about 4 inches on the FWD car but the AWD car not so much, mabe an inch or 2

ok so i am tired of smelling burning oil thats dripping over the exhaust and from what i can tell the oil leak is comming from the valve cover gasket or grommets but what ever i do i cant narrow it down more than that. bein a little short on cash since the move every buck saved helps but i was wondering if i should just do grommets on that side or should i do em both. theres $10 difference but like i said every buck at the moment helps untill the account recovers some. i used some lucas before and that helped alot acually but i changed the oil and didnt do the lucas and its leaking more but buying a $10 bottle of lucas everytime i do an oil change to replace a $2 quart of oil is also a bit much. so basicly it comes down to is it likely the valve cover is the culprit or is it just as likely as the grommets? the valve gasket set comes with the grommets but another thing is if i could just buy the one gasket and then buy the grommets seperatly ($3 for 9) but i dont know of where else aside from the dealer that i could do that

how much oil does the thing leak? and you only replaced the one (mickey) gasket or did you do all 3 seals on the oil pump?

wow is this what you did after i left? oh and you can see s. squrrel in the first pic. also you gonna hit that rust under the battery tray on that inner fender while your at it, wire brush self etching primer and rubberized undercoating works good i have found out.

find a 90 loyale with a 4eat and call it good, these i think are all turbo cars, might be wrong about that, one thing i do know.... yea its turbo but at the same time its still only 1.8l and its moving 4 wheels instead of 2 and you lose what....25% of your power with the 4eat? although i bet they are easier to swap a better engine in being that it does have a 4eat. bell housing wires and radiator is pretty much it i think. aside from that i think your other bet is swap the entire drive train from a legacy or imprezza or something and fabricate up ALOT of stuff for it to all fit.

i saw some of these today http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/68635.jpg

is it free? i'm moving tommorow and i might as well if i have room in my wag

in order to "flop" it yous be making a new one. which isnt a bad idea but sounds like alotta work

mmm i thing turning it right is the way to go, some times i have to loosen the bleed nipple thingy so it goes in. you loosened yours?

saw some un cracked in the junk yard the other day, if i werent moving back down south i'd pull em and sell em....might any way

a little trick with corrosion thats kinda long term temporary is crack open a soda and pour it on and then rinse and blow dry

those look the same as mine and mines a 90

when it got hot my gas milage dropped alot too, but at the same time it was 100F when i was going over the pass just north of grants pass in oregon on i-5

i have seen diahatsus here. and some cars make it here under a different name. like the non-racey type of newer skyline is acually the funky looking lexus coupe

i'm not having any problems with my fram PCV

what do they expect the temps to go down too over the weekend in the seattle area, i need to head back up and get going on a few things but i am stuck because its to ************ing hot. going down the freeway and its still hot wind blowing in the windows

ea81? smog in oregon? how long ago did you smog it and what year is the car?

i think the turbo is better designed than the engine though, both water and oil cooled...most turbos would be a rock by now

reports of 115 here in areas but officially it was 107 and is expected to get hotter. i may have to postpone my trip back up to get my ************ and possibly some wheels for my Z

heh well yea that

i have an auto turblo

mabe the rubber seal on the radiator cap is decaying? does your car smoke? (cigs)