Niku-Sama

whered you get it that cheap?

not for a justy

well dont get me wrong, i put synthetic in other cars but those other cars generally push 200+ HP at the crank and are going to get used harder. and yea the german design thing was mainly because this has come up before and a certian some one was boasting the fact that it was based off a german design....which in all honesty we all know what that design is and i dont think thats something i would be boasting, especially for these cars as these cars were better bulit than their similar year german "counterparts" oh and what was the deal with the vega, it was an aluminum problem wasnt it (block w/o sleeves?)

any one have any info on decent 4x100 atv wheels?

this is an engine i find is not worth spending the extra for synthetic. even if its low milage and runs awsome i wouldnt. synthetic is more for something that lasts longer and to mee it doesent seem it would help that in any way seeing how the problems they have srent really related to the oil used in them, thinking about it.... the oil problems they seem to have is the pump seals and the massive leaks, more massive than most other cars. i think synthetic would help those leaks along. as for me i am using 30w, nothing fancy. i've been putting it in because i didnt know if i was going to hit desert conditions. well i am glad i did because there have been alot of hot and dry days, days where it doesent get below 80F some times. now there could be the argument of "this is an engine based of a german design" thats come up before but in all honesty that german design had no filter and any thing but close tolerances and it needed a thick oil. it had a screen kit but generally when you changed the oil you pulled a bush out of the screen kit before fillin it back up. and also i thought i would throw this out there. from experence from working at a lube shop in a hippy town, there have been plenty of EA motors come through where people requested 20/50 and they did fine.

mmm well it depends, i had one go out in my maxima, got a j-yard one and stuck it in there and it lasted a week before it crapped out again. which was fine it got me to pay day and through smog testing

they dont seem low for a turbo to me

sounds like bad MAF/AFM to me

no that ones different i still think it overheated and then had a failure edit: this is the one i found interesting: they dont seem horribly worried about fixing the throttle cable at all, it didnt blow but man thats something there were some others i cant find now with some hill billys but i do realize thats a pretty general term when it comes to people destroying cars

i dont care on the engine i was just wondering if i could single out non CVTs by asking for 4x4's. i want 4x4 any way but it helps to know. after i fix the exhaust i am probally gonna dump the wagon and drive the 280 untill i can find a decent crusty justy work wrenching on a bit before gettin it back on the road. and i have been watching people abuse the heck out of justys on you tube it seems like they over heat before any thing else at 9k rpm

i welded up a crack on a section where the center muffler used to be on my 280zx with a harbor freight wire welder, it seems to be holding fine and i think its gonna be hotter than at the end of the line of a 1.8L. you'll be fine, but if your pop welds well (mine doesent so much) then buy em some beers and let em have a crack at it.

i was wondering if the 4x4 justys came with the CVT? plain an simple

i havent had any problems with regular gear oils in any of my cars, subaru included.

well if its spfi then i say block off your resonators in the intake so that its just a single pipe running with out big boxes or tubes with empty space in them, it'll give you a bit more rumble but not from the rear end of the car. of course SPFI intake may be like that i dont know. i notice mine has quite the doo doo doo doo doo doo sound when i am crusing if i step on it though it becomes a giant hiss as the exhaust gasses escape the now HUGE hole in the manifold. i havent taken any of the reasonators off but it does make these types of injected motors a bit louder, did it to a friends legacy once and man was it loud. a good tune up, make sure ignition is good and everything will have an effect on it too, i hit a sweet spot and it made the doo doo doo doo doo sound more pronounced and my milage got better too so mabe it was just outa wack when i got it.

yea thats news to me too. is it a SPFI or Carb motor?

i agree with having the heads checked, nothing worse than thinking you got it done and back together and fixed when come to find out the problems still there.

arlington hmm, i was up there for a little while, on the other side of the I5 off of pioneer hwy. that is if its the same arlington. any way when i got mine it knocked and pinged a bit, not too bad but my PCV was shot and had been for a while and blew alot of junk into the system and clogged up the pipes, a screw driver and some solvent fixed it and it helped alot, might check it out. i bet even though if you've replaced the PCV about 20 years of bulid up could still happen

go to a junk yard and check late 80's early 90's gm cars (olds, buick ect.) for the squeese type connectors, i've also noticed these connectors dont corrode as bad or as fast as i have yet to find a crusty one. generally FWD V6 cars have the best, there are some audi/vw with squeezers too but they tend to be a bit crustier. also some of the connectors are numbered so if your like me and have your head in a bunch of different cars you can stick the connectors on and replace the injector ones when they go bad and replace them with the numbered ones and do it in firing order and/or 1-2-3-4 so you can know it just by glancing

i reccomend the pressure washer and a tiny bit of soap, i've done carpet cleaners and they dont do as good. the soap will suds up and help clean any smells out of it and possibly help if there are any stains. i've used any thing from dish soap to solvent-less degreasers. dish soap is cheapest, dont use a whole lot either or you'll have a foamy mess

i bet you could save that hood, its just that one dent in the front leading edge right?

theres still a demand for em, ever since i STOPPED trying to sell mine people have been on me like white on rice to sell it. had some one calling me offering $1000 after i already had it packed up and ready to go. had some one on saturday ask me if i was selling it and i said i'd think about it so it may go any way.

if you want to shoot the origonal to me i can host it on my web space if you want. just lemme know

hmm interesting stuff, i've herd of people using some odd home brew stuff, usually fire extinguishers but for the harbor freight thing thats not bad. i'm supprised i havent found any thing that uses a paintball tank yet.

i've run FWD fully loaded over mountian passes for about 50 miles and i didnt have any problems either but i think its a big easier for it to run in FWD than RWD although i like RWD alot better but i have another car for that

whys that hmm? the rest of the seals have been replaced when i re did the oil pump, valve cover want leaking untill after i did those which kinda makes sence, there probally wasnt the volume needed to get to it. in all honesty i kinda spaced it for a bit, picked up a cracked manifold from turbone so i can use it as a template and when i was talkin to a guy about making a manifold that wont crack i noticed it again and went crap i should fix that. i still dont know what i am going to do about the exhaust still, i'm getting mixed results about weither or not the flex pipes they have on hand will handle the heat, some say yes others say no, the other option is 2 peice and notched spots for the outlets from the heads to the manifold instead of that funky rump roast sandwhich thing they have going on from the factory.