Niku-Sama

he needs a better cam because its so much better looking in person

TB Injection, i doubt it car wouldnt run at all if the in bold was the case. i had a 1987 maxima that had a similar problem (who nother motor but....) i replaced the CHTS (Cylinder Head Temp Sensor) its the same thing zstalker is talking about, it fixed it for the most part, the rest was tuning it getting the timing right and adjusting the vaccum in the car because the BCDC (Boost Controller Deceleration Device) was mis-adjusted. the CHTS is the same basic sensor in the EA cars that changes fuel mixture along with the temp of the engine, they may even be the same sensor, that'd probally be awsome becsue for some reason the CHTS cost a fortune on the maxima, hope its not the same on a NX. probally a little late to this but i thought i would add

i thought the falcon and mustange shared alot

holy crazy bat man

grrr good thing this board hasnt gone to an autmoatic infraction system where a script on the server deems weither or not your posts viloate any thing and auto ban you for the rest of the day like they started at hybrid z. i think we'd all be ************ed

you sure some one didnt take a '90 trans and put it in there? i'm not talkin legacy either but usually when some one comes on and says they have AWD a bunch of people are quick to correct them. i was one of those untill i said i had a '90 turbo wagon with a 1st hold button for the 4eat in it. mabe people here are wrong though and more of these wagons exist over other years but i say take a pic of the dash, that'll be the sure fire way to tell. if people swap they generally dont swap the cluster and it's different on full time models

i think if i remember correctly you can hotwire the fan by unplugging that radiator sensor down by the electric fan and jumpping the connectors on the harness side. PO did this and they took an old sensor and chopped the connector off and soldered the 2 wires together on the connector and plugged it into the harness. if you hack up an old sensor it makes it easy to un hook it and put everything back to normal

so you did a new cone and torqued it then? that'd be cheaper because i just got back from the stealership. got 2 part numbers, their system doesent give details on which hub is for what the good news is they arent $250 any more, bad news is they are still $218.18, the other is $160.78 so any way the part numbers are 23600GA132 and this replaces 23600GA and is the $160.78 part the other part number is 723610001 and this one is the one that costs $218.18 the guy said there were 15 left in the world and production has stopped, i dont know if thats 15 total between both of them or if its 15 each any of these parts ring any bells with you guys? i'm still trying to get weither or not the full time 4WD cars have more splines than regular 4wd/fwd ea82 cars on a side note, part number 44102GA200 is no longer availabe, going to have to bulid or salvage our own manifolds from now on

i think it'd just be easier to swap the motor from the FWD to the 4WD but thats just me

i just realized something i'm pretty much effed on trying to find a hub, isnt the full time 4wd loyale wagon 25 spline and the regulars are 23 or something?

so am i basicly understanding there could be too much play in the teeth where the axle comes into the hub causing the grinding? or is it some other part of the hub?

you make it sound like the village bicycle

any way i tried. i guess i am full of ************ asking the body style and the transmission your using. dont get me "rong" dude, if you have 34 engines or what ever number we figured out eventually you obviously know that these things are bullet proof.

what are the odds that durring this first 100k that this penzoil was parafin wax based oil?

soo did you swap the transmission or are you using a single or dual range transmission? also body style?

ok i must give an example of why synthetic isnt really for EA's i made the Subaru suffer earlier that day by parking it in the street and making it watch as i clay bared and buffed the Datsun. this is a good enough reason to not use synthetic in my Subaru, i only use synthetic in the Datsun when its going to be pushed harder, seemes to keep things going/quiter/cleaner oil when i am pushing it alot at the track or on the prowl up the abandoned roads for honduhs. and yea twich is right, your probally loosing alot more oil when it hotter because its thining up and making it out the leak sources, my leaking slowed when i went to 30w but when its cold it just seems to push it out easier till it warms some

i am still confused

hmm yess, odd is a word for it

i dont think its ohms for the 4eat as much as the regular SPFI has a 3 pin connector and the MPFI/4EAT has a 3 pin + 2 pin connector. i always forget when i go get a spare and i come home with one that wont work

are they the same on the passenger as they are on the driver? i think the expencive u pull here has a few on their lot and i might as well try and get both of them incase i can only find bad driver sides they are one of those types of places that if they know what it is they'll charge a bunch for it, i doubt theyd know what a loyale hub would look like

hmm well i'll take another look. i cant find a hub on schmucks or napas website how much do you guys think it'd cost to replace?

they seemed fine, i pushed the rotor from side to side before i took it off and had no play, everything behind it seemed nice n tight all the bearings had normal ammount of wear and i tossed some grease in there before i wrapped it up i think if it were a hub i would hear it all the time, and this i only hear it some times while i am on the brakes

ok so i am trying to figure this out, i am getting a grinding sound out of the driver side front and i cant for the life of me figure it out. i thought it was pads so i pulled it apart and nothing, pads look brand new, everything was tight, rotors are used, thats to be expected driving the car every day, driver side axle doesent have any play and the castle nut is on tight. i'm at a loss, it only happens on the driver side and its purely at random, some days it doesent do it, some days it does it till i drive it a bit and other days it does it all day long. it doesent do it at speeds above about 30 mph, it usually starts at arround 15/20mph till i stop. so i is stumped. the only thing i can think of is that the pads are harder than OEM and causing some vibration which would sound like that but both sides have the same pads and its only the one side makin the noise. this is a full time 4wd car (4eat and all)

hmm must check sears, my other car might like something like that

honda wheels are gay, i was thinkin the same about the black, thats why i was askin