Niku-Sama

single or dual core?

why not calculate milage divided by gallons filled at the pump?

datsun peoples like em for their z's 4.11's and an inline 6, pretty quick even with a stock motor

timing belt? what? its not in there but even if it was its not a big deal in these cars. if the hose doesent fix it i would try the pump still. i'd also go for a new rad because most of the rads in the yard (where i am atleast) are usually full of choclate milk

o'm not limiting my search its just thats what comes up when i search the craigslist in my price range, i am going for the cheap of the cheap....again sell the loyale for a bit more and i bought it for since i fixed its major problem other subarus show up but they are GL,DL and Loyales and i already have a loyale and its just not got much umpf for driving over mountians and theres a bunch i am going to have to tackle in the near future.... plus the loyale isnt much for hot weather

early one, the few i am considering are early 90's, first gen. i'm probally going to sell the loyale when i get the title in the mail (slow pokes) any way most of them sound like they need simple stuff except one is an idle problem. i know people are going to say IACV but how often are you able to get away with cleaning them and other than the IACV and the usual vaccum leak/PCV issue is there any thing else that contributes to an unsteady idle on these cars? are there many major and/or common problems with the early legacys that i sould watch out for?

yuck....seriously?

heh, its been arround 100f since i got here. i'll probally get a legacy, they seem to handle the heat a bit better. considering elpaso gets hotter.....so yea

oh ok i thought you were hinting at needing some. well i checked the one out on the car and its not too bad, but i think i am going to sells it, car isnt liking the heat much here, isnt over heating but if i had a/c it would probally and considering i am going to eventualy wind up in elpaso that probally wouldnt be too good so its probally best it stays in washington, its cold up there. not to mension its running awsome at the moment i'll probally fix the a/c though since you northern folk seem to think 80F is hot

oh no i meant the injector thing being the hint

is that a hint?

what should i do about the manifold on this car? the one i got from the junk yard was.....cracked i guess... more melted than any thing, about 7/8 ths arround the the pipe where it started to go up. no big loss was only $6. i dont think the one on the car is that bad but it would be nice to get all that exhaust going through the turbo some time would be nice. should i try and find a shop that can make something for me, mabe 2 peice like it shoulda been or just keep trying my luck with junkyard cars? also does any one have a good dual core rad?

that sucks but it sounds easier than my ac. i get to dig arround in my dash to replace the expansion valve, only thing is i dont think the current radiator can handle cooling the car and the a/c heat from the condencer after what i found out today....hmmm it may be dual core time

4 tbi's i think would be too much fuel....thats alot of juice they squirt, mabe for major bolt streching boost or something. kinda werid to think about but consider a whole engines fuel supply in each cylinder of another engine. any way the last pic on the link above with the pintile caps....its a revision that helps with the spray pattern and keeps em from getting clogged so much. i bet some of the ones on my z have the yellow caps still considering its a 79 and still has original injectors we'll see i may pull them and replace them some time next week

so basicly what your saying is they are rated for 180 but run more for one reason or another, the n/a 280z runs a lower fuel pressure than this loyale does. the injectors look the same, green topped same set up, low resistance. well they were once green they get old and crusty looking and the green fades or the coating on the plastic peels but any way, i'll just keep the 4 left over, should probally check the resistance on them still. resistance on these injectors can get outa wack pretty easily resulting in problems. thats another thing these are low resistance but whats the rating supposed to be at on these? mabe theres more juice being run to them through the connector resulting in them working more and having higher than rated flow rates.

yeesh, tanks need to be hydrotested every so often for weaknesses. kinda makes me wonder why its free, hrmm its usually cheap to test, thought i would throw that out there

alright sweet, i have been getting lucky with the injectors in the yard, aside from always getting 5 good ones they are usually new injectors in the car before it hits the yard like they were trying to fix it and then gave up....although after 5 new injectors i wouldnt have stopped, they is spendy. this last car how ever had a ton of bees nests all over the car so mabe they gave it up because of the bees

if both #2 and #4 have little or no compression i would rebulid/replace arlington PaP has a ton of ea82 stuff right now, go grab yer self a head

whats the flow rate of turbo injectors? i always seem to get injectors in sets of 5 for my 280zx and i'll have 4 left over so i was wondering what the flow rates on the MPFI turbo injectors were so i could keep a set arround for this car just in case or i could sell em off on the z board

i wouldnt suggest using a pressure washer to remove rust because it wont to much and will force water into small cracks and stuff giving rust more ammo as for harbor freight stuff, its good for general purpose but dont expect it to last long. some of it does but its rare

you musta skipped a bit there. the expansion valve has gone bad sucking the low side down and boosting the high side

its not that hard to get to and i dont think it costs much for that sensor

whats with the negative oil pressure, is the guage ************ed? i might check the valve timing and check for vaccum leaks and the such, you know usual stuff

better move soon.... http://news.aol.com/article/tremors-detected-on-san-andreas-fault/564374?icid=main|hp-laptop|dl1|link2|http%3A%2F%2Fnews.aol.com%2Farticle%2Ftremors-detected-on-san-andreas-fault%2F564374 any day now....ker-splash!

yep, i thought there'd be a pressure switch still even though they changed where its at. i went to the junkyard to replace the fan power connector (was fried on the inside) and i soldered it on (crimp is the suck) and while i was there i checked the a/c stuff, th switch on the lines are the same as the connector on the dryer. also after looking it over a little more the dryer is on the high pressure side so its probally ove charged. i didnt get an expansion valve though, too deep in the dash and it was too hot in the yard car to pull it, i wonder if theres some sort of trick to fix it while its on