Niku-Sama

see the thing i dont think i'll ever figure out is if the ea81 and ea82 are so dang similar then why does one have such a huge problem over the other, i know all the problems rely in the head, i dont see much about the bottom end of these things giving out and alot i have seen have drty engine cases/block and clean heads. but at the same time its like why adding lifters and timing belts caused the over heating problem and the warpage problem. i donno, all i know is i should probally get a cheap ej22e and rebulid it at my leaisure because i dont think any old car is going to handle el paso texas summers well. which means cooling system beef up on my other car aswell which reminds me i need to ask a question in the swap forum

here you go, MMMAAADDDD BOOST YO! http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/1219794029.html

the price list from arlington pap doesent have steering rack on it, has crossmember and they run $26.50. although how its made up on the list it could be there and i am not seeing it, the alphabitize left ro right in a dual row config on the paper and its kinda bizzare, you'd thing yous alphatize top to bottom when you have 2 columns

yea i think i am going there tommorow, i might even buy something this time but money is still tight. you want me to check and PM you or something? problem with the one there is your going to have to probally pull the engine thats still in it

looks like july 9th theres going to be somethin happenin in arlington durring the air show, check it out. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1782617

long bed ea82 brat

dont know, if the car runs with out it dont bug it buy a Haynes manual, look up AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve) its in the same section near it Dryer for the A/C

master cylinders hiss when they have a vaccum leak. kinda werid that its only when you step on the brakes though they generally hiss all the time when they go bad

hi/lo? any 9004 headlight bulb is going to have low beam and high beam filiments in them. as long as you looking for 9004's and not looking for the sealed beams the 4 eye cars have i would reccomend Sylvania SilverStars. its a blue glass lightbulb but it has a white light, super white even. i used em on my maxima and i still have some on my 280zx, i'll probally get them for this car when these burn out and i have the monies for em

you forget the people who drive the old beat to hell cars that run amazingly well crowd. ya know, those funky frumpy rusty wagons and hatchbacks that pass you in the lane just right of the car pool lane. the cars that when you pass some one you get the look of...."what the hell this guys passing me?"

well it seems the hose going from the driver side valve cover to the PCV system was loose, the funky wire clamp on it was about half way up, i dont think it was the cause of the leak but it coulda been i guess

the only thing salvagable from the body thats left is the core support, roof and amazingly floor boards, the rest of the car, rockers, front thing some one was talking about and other things were dented or rust was starting to take over, the blue on there was painted right over the rust. the windsheild was cracked the rear could come out but we got most everything minus the suspension, the crossmember with the rack and the mensioned body pannels. got both rear electric windows, they were tricky, so they arent just rolled down there outa there, and the rear stationary side glass. that transmission was deceptivly heavy for what it was, i was supprised. soak those transmission cross member bolts in some WD-40, you dont want to break those off like i did on the parts car, supprised they broke off with a 3/8 ths inch drive ratchet, one didnt even resist it just went snap

yea it was the purplish silver and black, both bumpers were still on it, front was a tad scratched on one corner

so was there a mid year switch from dual sealed beams to single halogen lights or something?

no even on craigslist. take into consideration i got my 90 AWD turbo loyale wagon for $300 with ticking lifters and i fixed it with some seals. there are alot more of them on craigs list, i have been keeping an eye because my aunt wants something cheap. last night i checked out a few on craigslist one in seattle with some stuckers on it, dent in the back hatch broken running light, needed front cv's and some other minor work, asking $300, another only needed passenger side cv joint has red hood and fender from vandals for $200 i think it was, there was more. then theres the 96 outback for $200, i dont know whats up with it but it soulds like a engine and 5 lug donor to me

hmm thats werid, theres a ea82 wason with single solid head lights and a honey comb grill in the junk yard

hmm, forgot to about the PCV system. problem with looking for dirty oil and clean oil is i cleaned the engine compartment before working on it because alot of the stuff was so crusty in there i couldnt get the right size socket on alot of things

so ok before i changed the pump seals i blasted the crap off the underside of the car before i worked on it and to see if there were any other leaks aside from the ones on the front end, and at the time there werent any others. now theres a leak on the driverside some where, passenger side is bone dry. it kinda seems like passenger side rear, at first i thought it was the valve cover but the oil is just getting on the valve cover and not comming from it, same with the other seals in the head, it just gets every where underneath so its hard to pin point but every thing that has oil up top is in the passenger rear and then works its way down and spreads on the way down too. is there a seal in/on the distributer or on the engine side of the distributer that could have gone bad? or any other thoughts? its definitly motor oil, its not red like atf and its not thick/smells like GL5.

take them in and have them put a dial indicator on them, or just take them in and say they are warped. didnt by chance go through any puddles after heating up your brakes did you? duralast never last especially from the auto-bone

link fixed, have to take out a few http://HTTP://'s http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/ any way from my experence acrillic enamel chips pretty easy too

Ever Victorious, i sent you up a PM about what we were talkin about earlier and the swap. any one local got an ea81 layin arround?

wow $9.25 shipped is a pretty good deal. local yard has them $16.50 with a $3.50 core charge then factor in one of us to ship it. not bad

i like up too, as long as you stick square or rectangle lights on it, having rounds right next to big glass block headlights isnt gonna look right

i've had something similar but on a different car. big ol section where the teeth came off, more than one more like 10 or 20. was in a Maxima (U11 body VG30E motor) wasnt so hot. 8 bent valves and some minor head work, still cost about $2k because i didnt have the time nor the tools to do it my self. i guess it was kind lucky i was saving up for a computer setup and some stocks but ever since then money has been hella tight and i dont know why. any way atleast this isnt an interference motor so thats cool. the werid part about it was i was doing burnouts before i left work, worked at a lube shop, we would smoke out the car wash guys....any way it had no problems but come up to a stop light and go when it turns green like normal and rattle rattle rattle.....quiet.....hmm no steering

garage, tarps over everything. but a decent air compressor is going to cost some bucks still. how well does rustoleum white compare to the OEM white? pretty close?