Niku-Sama

boy that was pretty dusty what the story with it? just a donor?

are you going under the oil pan with that one from the driver side or is that just how it looks in the pic?

i like MSD better, have gotten one too many yellow cans bad outa the box

ah hah something i know about. i've been through about 2 or 3 trying to get good ones but they all crack in the same spot. i wouldnt be supprised if yours has cracked in the same spot as well all the ones i have pulled or bought for cheap crack just behind where the passenger side excahust port meets the rest of the manifold, right before it goes up to the turbo basicly behind all those heat sheilds. i have one that i am fixing that was completely seperated there but i have welded it back together with my cheepo harbor freight wire welder and we'll see if it holds together. some times, like on my car, it cooks those hard black lines and it causes that black coating to melt but on some of the other cars i have pulled those lines were fine so thats not always the case but what you could do is fire th car up and hold your hand arround those heat sheilds and see if you can feel any hot ait comming out from behind then on the passenger side. from what i ahve been told its because the exhaust on that side some straight in instead of comming in at an angle going with the flow of the exhaust. it causes the heat to bulid up more there and the heating up and cooling down over and over causes it to crack. not to mension it probally needed to be 2 peices there because i am sure theres a bit of strain on the pipe at that area too. i've welded one back together and then re enforced it with a thick walled hardened steel exhaust coupler, i'll get some pics of it when i get it cleaned up some to show

i havent had much of a problem with mine but its still guttless with a turbo but i guess that could be chalked up to the fact that its trying to turn all the wheels all the time

mine shows about half way at any speed driving warm or cold which it should because i still have 30w in there at idle its just above 0

can you post a pic of where you attached this guage?

holy crusty, well the only thing i can say is pound the heck out of the floor boards with your fist to double check em. one thing i remember about our rabbit from the past was it was deceptivly rusty. didnt have any holes in the floor but if you pounded on it it would go crunch crunch crunch

that "W" looking thing mensioned earlier is that hard plastic hose that runs just behind the intake where it goes into the throttle body, infact its clipped to the intake and its in your pics. when you take it out its kinda W shaped but its like one leg is really long. my car is the same as yours and all those vent hoses that were hooked up to that plastic hard line were clogged, i suggest taking some super clean and a screw driver and cleaning them out, pretty easy really. but you should just do em all and only do a few at a time so you can put it back together easily and make sure they are pretty dry before sticking em back on my dipstick wasnt being pushed out but the car ran better over all. i did have one time where it did goop all over the ground but i was starting the engine and immedatly turning it off over and over testing a new starter i had put in and i think it farted it out.

ok so, re surfaced the rotor, hub looks fine, new cone washer....was ok again after reassembly and now its back to making noise again. any other thoughts? its still only happens durring braking

well crap, i just got back from the junk yard and i couldnt find ANY thing except for a funky mushroom looking solenoid from a honda, the vent is a rubber cap (mushroom top lookin thing) all they had were older camrys (late 80s) and the early 90's ones which i have found out that have the one in your pics are all missing their engines. do legacys have a egr solenoid thats better than ea82 or do they even have one at all?

yep http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102969

i forgot to ask in a different thread but.... how well do those ZX vents cool your spare?

looks like a low rider of monster trucks

if you think its the connectors in the bottom of the socket why dont you take a soldering iron and bulid them up a little bit

you missed your target. you need to be in the newer section. request a move though instead of reposting it.

generally theres a filter of sorts on the alternator, mabe its gone bad?

i'd imagine theres a schucks/kreger/checker/o-riley part store up there: part number 19494 for a 1981 subaru GL, unloaded caliper....basicly the hydralluic parts http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=19494&PartType=5003&PTSet=A pull the pins undo the hose, swap re attach everything, bleed a bit. working

okie dokie, hopefully they have restocked some. guess i'll find out after i weld the exhaust manifold back together

so like camry or accord, late 80's to early 90's should have something?

DaveT remember any of the hondas or toyotas those solenoid's came off of? i am thinking they may be the cause of my some times rough idle problem so i thought i would try and yard some others since they seem to last a big longer than the subaru ones

overdrive button on a 4spd? i thought you just jabbed at the gas pedal quicky and got the "power" light to come on

mabe they just took out the whole module thingy, my ft4wd car doesent have one and moves with out a key turned to the on position

it aparently lives, owner posted a quick running clip on the 5th page. sounds like the BOV is active more while its idle than when they rev it

ahh i see ok i'll remember that since... its been a week and a half with the new pads and everything was dandy untill today where they started making the same damn sound again. its strange because with the new pads it was fine for a while but now its back to doing it again, that was the only thing i changed. i guess i'll resurface the rotor and since i'll be in there do the cone washers. just gotta catch my buddy while hes got the time after work so he can put er on a lift and use his lathe