92_rugby_subie

Thanks so much for your patience. So this is what Im thinking I will do. Remove caliper Have the e-brake line disconnected Pump the e-brake line on the caliper to get the piston out. Unscrew it the rest of the way. Spray some brake cleaner in the piston hole and on the piston. Clean gunk out, repeat until I feel its clean enough. Let dry. Rub brake grease into the piston hole (and on the piston?) Screw piston back into piston hole until its all the way down? Reconnect brake lines. Put caliper/pad assembly back on rotor (but DONT hit the brakes yet) Repeat for other side. After both front ones are redone (rears are drum brakes) begin the bleed process: Use turkey baster to remove the old fluid (probably not all of it, just most of it right, to prevent air from getting in the line? Fill with new fluid. Put cap on (clean cap) Push down the pedal, open the bleeder. Fluid comes out. Immediately close the bleeder. Lift up on pedal. Repeat. If the pedal is lifted up with the bleeder open it just sucked air in, you went backwards. Order to bleed: So Passenger Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Passenger Front I hope this is right, I dont wanna waste your guys' time. At least Im making a very thorough walk-through for another scoobie-newb? AND ITLL BE DONE RIGHT SO I DONT DIE IN A CRASH (And Ned Stays In One Piece)

I plan to rebuild both sides I wont push the pedal, and I will keep an eye on the fluid, I have an old bottle thats bout half full so I will pour that in while Im cleaning the calipers. I have what appear to be brand new brake pads and brand new brake rotors. Unfortunately, the brake pads have a little scuffing from being taken off the rotor when they were stuck, can I just sand them with a little sand paper or will they go back to wearing correctly when I start driving?

Thanks so much. I had brake cleaner, but a buddy of mine had this god awful colored bumper that we were trying to sell, so we sprayed brake cleaner on it, it ate the new paint and was able to be scrubbed off to the original color underneath it. So just to clarify: Brake Cleaner (1 can should do both front calipers?) Steel wool (or is there something better) Brake grease (brand/quantity I should get for 2 calipers) DOT-3 Brake Fluid (should the smaller ones work or is it the larger one to fill the reservoir for bleeding the brakes) Turkey Baster (for sucking old fluid out) I am really trying to do this on a very cheap budget, but I dont want my cars brakes to lock up on the freeway or something. I plan to take special care in this, but I also dont want a $50 repair bill :-\ Post question: For bleeding the brakes. If there is bad fluid in the line, should I bleed it BEFORE I put the rebuilt/redone calipers on there so that the bad fluid doesnt get right back in there?

So no special tools or anything? I mean obviously when I bleed it I need the baster and brake fluid, but Im actually very excited to tear apart my brakes now. Thanks a ton!!

Agreed. I started this website wanting to "rice" my Loyale. didnt go so well, view it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100182&page=2 There are so many options for engines. 2.5Loyale has the EJ25 in his Loyale. I believe he said hes 3500 into his Loyale (including the $700 for the car) and he likes what was done. Renob123 has the frankenmotor in his BRAT - EJ25 shortblock with EJ22 heads and although Ive never ridden in it, Ive seen it and heard it, and its mean. EJ22 swapping is common as well. As for RWD, hmm, havent seen anyone do that unless they muck up their front axles and use 4WD for the rear wheels. I would have to say, if you plan to "drift" your Loyale and if you werent tight on money, Id say either learn quickly how to do the swap or pay someone in your area or close by (sorry, didnt look where you were located before posting this) to do the swap. My plan for my EA82 is to keep it running until I have the money for the swap, but my hopes are: FrankenMotor (will most likely have GD do the wiring if he can stand me that long ) with as much custom machining/parts as I can for max power. AWD swap with 5 Speed and later possibly the 4.44 gearing from FXT RX ground effects and hoodscoop and MR2 spoiler Repaint (same color most likely) KYB or Tein suspension 5 lug swap (and rear disc conversion) WRX wheels Lowered suspension (mentioned above) Etc. I mean I could go on, because I - A) cant afford a WRX after wrecking a mitsubishi, my insurance rates for my EA82 are $240/month so I will not have a WRX until those are way down. C) Stock older cars that are maintained well dont catch attention as much as flashy new cars. Just my .02, if you plan to go along with doing the swap, best of luck, and hope to see a build thread, but as mentioned, do PLENTY of research. In fact... I have another Swap forum for you to read... let me see... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120746

What order? RR, RF, LR, LF?

I think I will definitely try one of those. The other caliper is holding up the wheel, I can feel it when I try to spin it.

Ive never flushed a brake system... Dont you have to like pump the fluid in or something?

That is what Rick (GD) was saying that water couldve gotten in the line. So should I add fluid to the top (im just above the minimum line) Remove the caliper and see if I can free it up and clean it up and then bleed the brakes a little bit?

Where could I find the rubber plug? Would it be easier to just unhook the caliper and let the fluid drain out into a pan while Im looking at the caliper or what not and then just putting in new fluid after its all gone? or is there something with that process thats a PITA?

Yea I know about having to turn the piston in and stuff. I dont even know if it can do that. I would check but in my very limited supply of tools, a set or two of vice grips to pinch of the line is not included so I cant pull off the caliper til I find a set or two (might as well check the other side while Im at it)

Gotta say, seeing my scoob with blocks behind the tires is not something I enjoy at all. Hes in gear, but I dont like parking without the parking brake, and Im afraid that if I set it, the caliper piston will hit the rotor and screw that up. I dont wanna do that! The rotor and pads look pretty much new.

Ignore the UserName haha Ned is a 1986 GL Sedan. 172k. 5 speed. D/R. Integrated parking brake.

My passenger side caliper froze up on Ned yesterday. Id been hearing this scratching sound coming from that side when I passed other cars and figured it was just my strut issue or what not, so I didnt even think it was bad. Finally I started smelling burnt brakes. Was not as bad as my Loyale (left the ebrake up slightly and made caliper red and smoking) Didnt have smoke but had the smell. Lifted it up on a jack and couldnt turn the wheel without real force. Took quite a few blows to get the caliper off the rotor. Few questions. I have done some searching but theres a lot of posts that are on similar issues but on Legacies. Rebuilding - I heard that these are made of very few moving parts and I should just be able to tear the caliper apart and use some PB blaster and clean it up with steel wool? Is this worth it? Should I do both sides? The free wheeling Im used to (rear wheel drums) is not the free wheeling I have up front. I cannot just spin the tires and have them rotate, they stop immediately when I spin them. My idea was to get a set of used ones and slap them on there, and then tear these apart, kinda as a learning experience as well as a "how cool would it be" to have rebuilt calipers that wont give me any issues until I do the 5 lug, full disc conversion.

Theres apparently (Im just hearing this now because my right brake caliper is stuck) a way that the caliper piston has to be turned or it wont work right.

Idk what I did But Ned is brokeded Front right brake caliper is stuck Took about 30 blows to get the caliper off the rotor

Oooohhhh got it. Wish I had the funds, I loved the Bajas

Am I missing something here?

I think I will just get a whole new front end. Ive got some weird strut issue or something, might just go get a whole new front end for like 100 bucks or something lol i dont know.

I will most definitely visit that section quite a bit

Thanks a ton! These are plenty of enough pictures, I think I will love the look of Ned, when its all said and done!

Whoops Guess Ill go correct that. What about the knocking sound when I shake the tire from side to side?

I can see from the pics that my cars tires are tilted in at the bottom, but I will take ones of it on the ground as well. Tie rods and ball joints, got it. Will look at those soon. Edrach - looking at their site now its funny, my step-dads name is Garth very rare name it seems lol.

Do you think they would be opposed it you sent took some pictures of it? How far up into washington is it?

I need a full alignment (4 wheel drive alignment) for Ned. Has anyone heard of some around the Beaverton, Hillsboro area that does REALLY good, thorough work, on the semi-cheap side? I have heard of Paceway, and the usual tire places, but Paceway's reviews say that "all they do is adjust the toe-in, which anybody can do" and I love their price ($49.95 for 4WD alignment as opposed to 79.95-119.95 that Ive been quoted before) I cannot adjust the camber, nor toe-in of my vehicle. As to my knowledge, the Camber is out of whatck on my car and Im eating tires. I do not have the knowledge or space to do this without a shop. The pics below definitely say I need an alignment, so does the wear on my tires and hopefully this will solve the wear issue. Now I was also told that I should check ball joints, tie rods etc. Should I do this before I send it in to get aligned? -Note, I didnt hear it before, but when the vehicle is on the ground, if I put my foot on the top of the tire and rock it side to side, I can hear this "clunk" sound, if that helps diagnose. Driver side front tire: Passenger side front tire: