Fairtax4me

Yep, you're on the right track. Check for 12v on the low beam wire at the switch. Should be the same color as at the bulb connector. Then check continuity to ground on the same wire. (key off)

The turn signal and dimmer switch are built into the same unit. Was the replacement a new part or used? Aftermarket?

Late 98 was the switch to phase 2 head design for the 99 model year. You probably have phase 1 heads if its a 98 model year, so will need the early gasket. Bent valves are a good bet. Not hard to fix but if you have good heads its an easy swap and you can fix the heads later and sell them.

Check fuses first. If the low beam fuses are blown check the connectors at the bulbs for melted terminals. There are separate are relays for fog and head lamps, unless for some reason it has some kind of aftermarket wiring for the fog lights. The low beam lamps and the fog lamp relay are grounded through the hi/lo dimmer switch. If the dimmer switch burns out it can cause this. Possible other sources kinda depend on if it has Daytime Running Lights.

If timing marks were off its usually pretty obvious its off enough to make it run rough. That said, 1 tooth off on the drivers side cam will cause misfires because that's where it reads cam position for fuel and spark timing. Incorrect cam/crank sprockets or dead cam/crank sensor will cause a flat out no-start. No difference in auto/manual sprockets. My initial thought is a bad coil pack. Was that carried over to the "new" engine? Are injectors original or did they come with the engine? If you swapped them did you install new o-rings?

If you've double checked to make sure nothing is hitting the flywheel/flexplate (something you might have used to lock the crank for removing the front bolt), either the timing is wrong, or the cams are switched; Intake on exhaust side and vice versa.

Two crank marks, make sure you use the one on the BACK of the sprocket where the reluctor teeth are. Use the notch marks on the cams, not the arrows.

750 is normal . 1000 is too high. Your shudder could be because the idle control valve is sticking.

A mom and pop type exhaust shop should be able to repair or replace the flanges for under $100. Don't let them just weld a piece of pipe on there, because that will lead to breakage of other parts. The pipe needs to be able to flex at the joint behind the cat.

I guess they figure they could save $1 by only including one nut instead of two. Either way, sure looks like there should be two of those, one on each side of the pivot. I would put the spinny nut on as a lock nut to make sure the rear adjusting nut doesn't loosen and fall off.

My first thought as well. Should be easy to figure out once you take the wheel off.

Keep the Subaru greens. Aaftermarket axles are junk and will cause problems.

Anytime they use a D= xx in these diagrams that refers to the diameter of a round part such as an o-ring or rubber grommet. I would guess that is supposed to go beneath the shifter assembly around the mounting screws that hold it to the floor pan. Was there any other new hardware included with the cable?

The diagrams make it look like there should be a tube or sleeve that the rod slides into. The adjusting nuts tighten to either side of the sleeve. The white/silver section in the middle of the "fork" pivots doesn't it? That should pivot so the cable doesn't bend when the shifter is moved. I believe you're correct, the two nuts should tighten against that piece in the center.

I think we've heard of this dealer before. The story is familiar... bought out by GM dealer, poor service tactics...

Ahhh, yeah I can imagine shipping to Australia gets pretty expensive. The two boxes (two struts in each) I got were about 30lbs each.

How long since the last full tune-up? Spark plugs, filters? I recommend Subaru OE PCV valves because of problems with aftermarket brands. Oil leaks won't cause this code unless the oil is getting on the O2 sensors or their wiring.

Would be nice to know which part of the seat they measure to. I assume they measure to the center of the hole. I can tell you the Outback rear measures about 690mm extended, not including the threaded portion of the shaft. Compressed length is about 470. I can measure the fronts tomorrow.

You can only use 96-99 outback struts. 00+ Legacy and Outback have coil over shocks in the rear. Totally different design. Forester you can use up to 07, but I don't think the spring perches are any higher. I got all 4 KYB on Rockauto for about $270 shipped.

Cut out those sections about 4" back from the breaks. Find some high quality wire (silicone jacketed wire is super flexible) and splice in new stuff.

Mine is a 96 Legacy L. It's gone through an outbacksformation, plus a 2" lift kit. Somewhere that I can't remember offhand someone had specs from KYB with overall height for I think 2nd gen Forester and 1st gen Outback struts. If I remember right the Outback rear struts had longer travel by about 3/4", the front struts by about 1/2". Forester rear struts had a very slightly longer overall extended length. Every forester Ive driven in has a stiffer ride than any outback ive driven, which i believe is due to a different valve rate in the forester struts. I haven't found actual valve rates though it would be nice to see the difference.

Probably 96-98. Which other relay? The signal flasher? Pretty sure there's only one near the fuse panel under the dash.

GL5 spec 80w90 gear oil. Takes just shy of 4 quarts. Don't use synthetic because it's too slick for the synchros. Subaru has a new fluid called Extra-S that has helped with shifting issues on these transmissions by its costs as much for a quart as a gallon of regular gear oil costs.

If you ordered lift springs for an outback, you should probably use outback struts since that's what the springs are made to fit. The forester struts have different valving and may have different extended lengths which will change spring preload. Most of what I've seen when people put forester struts on the outback, they still need strut top spacers to get rid of the saggy butt look. But those are usually with stock springs. I just ordered kings and new outback KYBs for mine. Hoping I get the same look as the gen1 outback wagon pictured on Primitive's store. Just a tad more arch height in the back than in the front. Except mine will be 2" taller than that.

You did inform SOA that the dealer performed an TCU flash and Did Not note it on the service ticket? That's a big no-no. As far as I'm aware they can perform an update without authorization Only if there is a Recall campaign concerning the TCU, but it has to be noted 1 on the receipt, and 2 with SOA that the recall was performed. Has to be a Recall though. Just a TSB doesn't count. I would definitely go looking around for unplugged or damaged wiring or connectors. Also, check the bottom of the car. Trans pan have fresh dents in it? A reflash doesn't require unplugging or even removal the TCU. The only reason I can see to remove it is maybe to look at it to get a serial number off of it. Shoddy work for them to not reattach the remote start boxes back where you had them.