Fairtax4me

Sounds like a broken axle. Have you been out off-roading? Checked the rear diff fluid for chunks? Is it any different if you put the FWD fuse in? If you think its the clutch pack just remove the rear section of the driveshaft.

Hard to believe its been three years. Time for an update! King me! Finally got the Kings put on with new KYBs. Its 1-3/4" taller in the back, 1-1/2" taller in the front than previously. I expect some of that will settle out after a few weeks. The ride is a bit bouncy for now, but otherwise not as rough as I thought it would be. Right front axle is clicking though. Gonna see if it gets better/worse over the course of a few weeks. If it gets worse I have another green cup axle ready to pop in. The back actually sits a little lower than I was hoping for. I wanted to see the back end about 1/2- 3/4" higher. Stacking blocks is illegal here, even though technically ALL lift blocks are illegal, and no inspector would ever actually see them, I don't like the idea of a strut spacer on top of a spacer, so I'm not sure what ill do about that for now. I can weld some new blocks together but they're such a bitch to change I don't know that its worth the hassle for right now. Just gonna wait and see how it settles out. Next up is gonna be new tires and possibly wheels. Still flopping between Bassett racing DOT wheels or throwing on the 16" WRX wheels I have.

In my experiences with using Fram filters I had two major failures where the can of the filter actually split at the base started to spew oil out of the filter. The second of these is what steered me away from the brand. I also had several with failed anti-drainback valves. I haven't personally used Fram in almost ten years, but I have plenty of customers at work who do. The biggest problem I frequently see now is leaking from the o-ring seal at the base.

Kinda sounds like a fuel pressure problem. Worst case it jumped timing. Pull the timing covers off and check that the notches on the outer edge of the cam sprockets line up with the notches in the rear cover. Check the belt for frays and cracks. New timing kit is about $200 on eBay with tensioner water pump and all the idlers.

Grey one is the front o2 sensor. White one looks like the ECT sensor. Sensor is in the coolant pipe on top of the block. Look down just in front of the PCV hose that comes out of the block.

Typically this type of issue is caused by the slave cylinder on the transmission. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. If its low you have a leak, and the source will be your problem cylinder. Here is a rubber dust boot on each cylinder where the pushrod enters the cylinder. Pull the boot back and see of there is fluid inside it, if there is fluid the cylinder seal is leaking and that cylinder needs to be replaced.

Great advice. I don't know why people pay money to have a simple consultation. Especially to a "friend of a friend". So many options out there, and even most criminal case lawyers will offer free consultation. Law firms advertise that all the time. Just pick up the phone book and it's there in the yellow pages. I can think of quite a few ways to get that $1000 back out of that lawyers pocket. It might not go back in mine, but it wouldn't stay in his...

Filter media isn't really a big deal but overall filter build quality can be a problem with some aftermarket filters. Napa Gold series filters are good, made by the same company that makes WIX. I run plain Purolator filters on all of mine. If you want to run Subaru OE filters, you can usually order them in bulk from online dealers and pay less than a local dealer will charge. But it doesn't hurt to see if you local dealer will match online pricing.

It should probably look something like this crudely drawn diagram. 22swap vachoseroute.pdf

Need to pull the plastic cover off and get a look at the whole tube. Pretty sure that's the one without the valve.

I would also be inclined to think wheel bearing, but I would expect there to be noticable play in the bearing if it were that far gone. Did you check the bearings for play before? It doesn't necessarily rule out the rear, because as you said it only makes noise when coasting. Does it happen at slow enough speeds that someone could walk next to the car and listen from outside?

Ask for a CarFax or Autocheck report. Or get a prospective purchase inquiry from your local DMV. Find out if it has any title issues (salvage/rebuild).

Put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower and see if the noise changes. Does it change if you turn tightly in one direction or the other? It only makes the noise when coasting?

If the 95 is automatic it will likely have EGR. Keep the single port exhaust y-pipe with the 96 engine. You'll need it if you ever do the swap.

It's $45 because it's used. But they don't have rust problems in CO. Used is a great option for these since you know it'll fit. There are aftermarket ones that you can get through rockauto for about $80 plus shipping. I would rather have a real Subaru part than aftermarket junk. The valve is easy to identify. On the side of the filler tube up near the top you'll either have one large vent hose (about 5/8" dia) coming off the side of the tube, or you'll have a small box about 1"x1" with two small hoses leading to it. The box is the valve.

So, you want to put the 95 engine into the 96, and your 96 has EGR? 95 will have EGR if its an automatic. That would be best case in your scenario.

The bearings are sealed. No way to inspect the lubricant inside them. This is an aftermarket extended warranty correct? Often they have to include items that your vehicle may not have, such as serviceable wheel bearings that some 4wd trucks may have. It would cost them a fortune to write an individual detailed policy for every different vehicle.

You'll want power from the main fuse panel if possible, and it will need to be run through a circuit breaker to prevent fuse blow out every time the seat hits the track stops. When the motors stop turning but are still being powered the current draw spikes and will pop a normal fuse. A circuit breaker trips when that draw spikes, then resets on its own after you let go of the button. Track down the power window circuit breaker in a junkyard car or the one you got the seats from if possible.

Good deal as is. Might be able to get it for $750 if you offer cash. Check it for torque bind. Check condition of all the fluids.

Darnold yours is probably a wheel bearing. Is it auto or manual? The autos do have a cooler built into the radiator. The steel lines can rust and leak. Also the rubber hoses can deteriorate and leak at the ends.

Hollow out the cats and you'll just get more check engine light. What was the code you got?

Rotational play is normal. The clicking could be due to worn side gears in the differential. Check fluid for sparklies. Is the car auto or manual?

The front wheels are driven all the time on the automatic. 100% engine power is delivered to the front wheels no matter what. The rear wheels are powered via a clutch pack in the tail section of the trans that varies the amount of power delivered to the rear by varying fluid pressure on the clutch pack. The amount of fluid pressure determines how much slip of the clutch pack is allowed, or if the pack needs to be locked down to provide 100% drive power for the rear wheels as well.

Model year 95 legacy was 2.2 only. 96 engine will drop in just have to use the single port y pipe that matches the heads, use the 95 intake manifold and wiring, and plug the EGR port in the head.

If your 03 is an automatic, it does have that capability as well, they moved the fuse holder to the main fuse box. As said before, no, it will not save you any gas.