Fairtax4me

Can do a leak-down test if you have shop air.

I'd like to know how the shop diagnosed a "sticky valve". The valve clearance on that engine has to be adjusted after the engine has been driven for a few hundred miles. That's a pretty normal operation after a rebuild. Incorrect valve clearance will cause rough running, and can cause excess noise if the clearance is loose. What kind of noise are you getting that makes this engine "loud"?

Yes, the whole engine harness unplugs at the bell housing. Makes for very easy engine removal. Not a common issue but dirt/moisture can get in there, and if the connectors have ever been apart they may not have been clicked together all the way.

The only part of the rack that needs any grease is the gear section on the drivers side and that should already have plenty. If it got dirt/crud in there wipe it off and just smear some chassis grease on the teeth. Not too much or it will just glob up everywhere. I mark the inner tie rod, lock nut, and outer tie rod end with a long paint line across all three so they can be set right back to the same spot. Getting the new boot on the drivers side is tricky. Silicone spray makes a huge difference. I usually end up holding the top in the groove and using a 90° angle pick tool to pull the lip over the bottom.

Could be a connection issue in one of the large connectors on the bell housing.

Then how's your car upside down?

Ahh you live in the southern hemisphere!

The only place you'll find the metal pipe is a dealer or a junkyard. Dealer is expensive. Junkyard parts are probably just as rusty as yours. I prefer napa for hoses, but yes, just ask for ATF cooler hose. Cut a short section of the old hose to take with you to match up the size.

Pull it. The backing plate screws tend to loosen and back out. Causes oil pressure loss. If any are loose you can either snug them up with an impact screwdriver or lok-tite them.

Dubble post

I think all 2.2s are single port after 96. Y-pipes usually swap pretty easy though. I guess that depends on where the first cat is on your 03. If it's back by the trans you can swap y-pipes. If the cat is up front with the wraparound thing by the oil filter (the dragons den), then you can still do it but you'll need to swap the whole cat pipe section all the way back to the spring-bolt joint.

The only part that really benefits from anaerobic sealant is the oil pump. The RTV squish can make little globs that break away and float upstream to the rocker feed ports and clog them. Anaerobic doesn't glob up, so it can't clog anything. Everything else, ultra grey works great.

99 Impreza 2.2 should work. Pre98 is no go. Electronics on the manifold changed and can't be swapped.

Best way is to crack the fittings loose on the unit and gravity bleed each port one at a time from bottom to top. Another way (if you think abead) is to flush the entire system first. Get nice new fluid into all of the calipers. Once the new unit is installed you squeeze all of the calipers back and that should force all of the air in the unit up to and out of the MC.

I just shoved it down with my foot far enough to get the bottom bolt in first, then put a jack under the brake rotor to rotate the knuckle up and put the top bolt in. Also makes a huge difference if you sand/grind the rust off the faces of the knuckle and coat it with anti-seize. Makes it nice and slickery.

Yep, and the sway bar isn't vitally important so you can leave it unhooked if necessary.

Unbolt the sway bar link. That keeps the lateral arm from dropping down far enough to get the strut out.

Bank 1 is passenger side. (The side with cylinder #1) Bank 2 is drivers side. Are you getting a code for the sensor? What is the code?

You'd have to find a set with a 5x100 lug pattern, or get lug spacer/adapters.

If it's for the cruise it needs to go to the cruise diaphragm somehow. There should be a valve box of some kind on/near it. If not, follow the vacuum hose from the diaphragm to wherever it goes. If the cruise valve isn't built into the diaphragm its usually mounted on the passenger strut tower by the drier for the AC. (Big silver can)

Oh, I missed that before. Only other thing I can think of would be the ratio of the rear diff you put in doesn't match the front diff in the trans. Did the trans and diff come from the same car? Was the vibration issue present before replacing the rear diff?

The large hoses, one goes to each head. A third may T into the PCV hose. The two small hoses you have pictured, the one with the white dohickie connects to the solenoid by the MAP sensor on the passenger strut tower. The other one I'm not sure.

Yeah one of those. I like craftsman for those because they seem to break pretty easily. You can use a wobbly end extension as well.

The "Bzzzzzzzzz" means no crank. Both my cars do it. Plus he said he replaced the starter.

Hmmmm, check the big connector(s) that go to the trans. Dunno about any diodes inr the trans wiring.